SWISS TREAT RICH HISTORY, PROXIMITY TO GERMANY AND FRANCE DEFINE BASEL'S APPEAL.

Byline: Richard Irwin Staff Writer

BASEL, Switzerland - Breakfast in Switzerland ... lunch in Germany ... dinner in France?

On the surface, this might seem an overly ambitious itinerary, but the citizens of Basel, Switzerland, can do it any day. They'll shop for clothes in Germany in the morning, then buy groceries and wine in France that afternoon, and return home to enjoy them all in the evening.

Switzerland's second-largest city is located on an elbow of the Rhine River at the nexus of the three countries. An obelisk at the Port of Basel marks the point where all three nations touch. Tourists can literally walk from one country to the next to the next in just a few steps.

But this geographical oddity is just one of many intriguing aspects of this beautiful Swiss city, whose 200,000 inhabitants share a fascinating 2,000-year history.

It's one thing to watch the Romans battle the Germanic tribes in the movie ``Gladiator,'' but it's quite another when you learn that such battles actually occurred near Basel.

The origins of Basel can be traced back to A.D. 374, when a Roman fort was built on the site. Only seven miles to the east was the large Roman town of August Raurica, once the home of 20,000 residents before being destroyed by raiders 1,800 years ago.

Today, tourists can visit these Roman ruins - the largest in Switzerland. Many Roman treasures are on display. There is also a reconstruction of a Roman house and an amphitheater that could hold 8,000 people.

If the ruins pique your interest, be sure to visit the Basel Museum of Ancient Art. It is the only Swiss museum devoted to Greek, Etruscan and Roman works, mostly from around 1000 B.C.

Basel is proud of its Roman past. In fact, a large statue of the Roman general Augustus commands the interior courtyard of the city hall. Our tour guide said the general was actually a friend of Julius Caesar, and was sent to tame the wild frontier of the Roman Empire.

The history of Basel infuses its city hall. Called the Rathaus, this large red sandstone building is one of the most beautiful city halls in Europe.

A statue of a woman, Justice, stands on the clock outside. This once represented the Virgin Mary, but when Protestants gained control of the city, they added a sword and scales. Even though the city joined the Reformation, it has kept the stylized bishop's crosier as its coat of arms.

The public building was originally constructed by the powerful craftsmen's guilds, which sought to demonstrate their wealth to the bishop. The Rathaus dominates Market Square - the heart of any medieval city. To this day, a small farmers market is held every morning but Sunday.

After buying some fresh fruit, visitors can stroll along the Freie Strasse, the main shopping area of Basel. I was intrigued by the narrow, winding lanes that were named for the different types of artisans. This is where adventurers (jewelers) and tawers (fine leather tanners) made their homes.

The cobblestone streets were obviously not made for modern cars. Today they're closed to vehicles much of the day, making it a pedestrian paradise.

Many of the craftsmen belonged to the guilds, the powerful trade unions of the Middle Ages. These medieval societies provided protection for the burgeoning merchants, and they were very influential. Guild masters were elected to the city council and committee members were representatives in parliament. At one time, the guilds were responsible for the defense of the city as well as the firefighting services.

To show off their power and prestige, the wealthy guilds would construct impressive guild halls. Unfortunately, only a few guild halls remain today.

A couple have been turned into restaurants, where tourists can enjoy the opulent surroundings while dining.

I decided to taste a piece of history at the Saffron Guild. First established in the 14th century, this guild consisted exclusively of spice merchants. In 1423, the guild bought a building on Gerbergasse to store merchandise and serve as a hostel for traveling merchants.

Objects from the rich days of Basel guilds can be found in all the rooms - from paintings and furniture to the rich wall paneling and ornamentation.

I ordered the fondue, the house specialty for 40 years. Thin slices of veal wrapped around wooden sticks are cooked in a heated, rose wine broth. Then I sampled many of the different sauces provided for dipping.

Other guild treasures can be observed in the historical museum, housed in the former 14th-century Franciscan church on the Barfusserplatz. I laughed out loud when I learned the square was named for the friars who originally lived here and didn't wear shoes.

The museum's most important collection features the work of medieval goldsmiths from the Basel Cathedral Treasure. Also here are beautiful Gothic tapestries and ecclesiastical art.

The city's cathedral is called the Munster. The mammoth red sandstone building has towered over the old city center for centuries. Consecrated in 1019, it required more than 500 years to build.

Thanks to its solid construction, the Munster survived a major earthquake in 1356 that destroyed much of the city. The main roof and spires collapsed, however, so the cathedral was rebuilt in late Gothic style with a roof of bright green and yellow tile.

Erasmus, the great Dutch humanist and writer, is buried in the Munster. In 1516, he published the first edition of the New Testament in Basel.

Strangely enough, the humanists were drawn to Basel because it was home to many printers. The printers had been drawn to the city because of the fine quality of paper produced by the paper mills established on the Rhine River in 1433.

Ideas and higher education became part and parcel of this Swiss city. Its university was endowed in 1459, making it the oldest in Switzerland. The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche taught here. And in modern times, Basel has produced nine Nobel Prize winners.

In turn, the city's rich families have nurtured scholarship and art since the Renaissance. Basel, which ranks as the second-most-affluent city per capita in Switzerland, supports more than two dozen museums and 100 art galleries.

In 1967, city voters approved more than $1 million to buy two paintings by Picasso. The artist was so impressed that he donated four more paintings to the city.

The Kunstmuseum (art gallery) is the oldest museum in Switzerland. With works of art from the old masters to the 20th century, this art museum has paintings by Van Gogh, Picasso, Gauguin and Klee.

But works of art aren't confined just to the museums. The loud, lively Tinguely Fountain, for example, is a moving sculpture fashioned out of old machinery by Basel artist Jean Tinguely. More of the artist's works may be found in the Tinguely Museum.

Just walking around Basel's cobblestone streets is a treat. Don't worry about renting a car; the well-kept and efficient tram system will take you practically anywhere in town at a very reasonable price.

Guests of the city's hotels receive a Mobility Ticket that is good for the trams. Also be sure to check out the BaselCard, which is good for discounts at many museums and attractions. The card, a real value, can be valid from one to three days.

One of the city's most celebrated events is the Autumn Fair. Last year, city squares throughout the city were filled with amusement rides and craft and food booths. It seemed the whole city would come out every night to enjoy this festival, which has been held annually since 1471.

But Basel is not a city of all play and no work. Today, it is the pharmaceutical center of Switzerland. The city's chemical industry is one of the most prominent in Europe.

Surprisingly, this all began when Basel gave refuge to the Huguenots escaping France. The most famous of these was John Calvin, the prominent Protestant reformer. It was here that Calvin published his ``Institutes of the Christian Religion.''

The Huguenots established a prosperous silk-ribbon business in Basel, which spawned a thriving dye industry that eventually gave way to today's chemical giants.

I felt I couldn't leave this multifaceted city without attempting the novel feat of dining in three countries in a single day.

After a pleasant breakfast in Switzerland, I set off for the Black Forest in nearby Germany. I quickly learned how this medieval wood got its name, as I soon became lost on its winding roads.

I did find a nice place to have lunch, but it took me most of the afternoon to ascertain my location. I decided to play it safe and retrace my route to Switzerland.

Dinner in France would have to wait. No big deal. After all, I was staying in Basel - I could always duck across the border into France in the morning.

--Switzerland Tourism maintains an office in New York: [phone]. Information is also available at www.myswitzerland.com.

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(1 -- 3 -- color) Basel's signature cathedral and Middle Bridge glow against the night sky, top. The Swiss city stands on the Rhine River and ferries, above, are a popular mode of transportation. Basel is a city of rich history and impressive architecture. One of its most distinctive buildings is its city hall, called the Rathaus, above right.

(4 -- 5) The Cathedral in Basel, Switzerland, looms over the Rhine River and city's Middle Bridge. Basel lies at the spot where the borders of France, Germany and Switzerland meet. Below, fountains greet visitors to the city.