SWEETS FOR THE SWEET DESSERTS FOR MOTHER'S DAY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Celebrate Mother's Day by whipping up a delicious sweet to honor a special mom.

There are plenty of irresistible sweets for all kinds of tastes - ranging from cookies, candies, fruit tarts, trifles, flourless cakes and the like - for children and cooks and bakers of all skill levels to turn out without much hassle.

Kids might like to try their hand at cute spring Bonnets or Creepy Critters easily prepared with convenience items. No doubt Mom would get a kick out of them. For something more sophisticated, rely on a fanciful flourless chocolate torte or an Italian-inspired fresh berry tart. Although they take a bit of preparation time, they are definitely worth the effort.

For a quicker option, consider a refreshing trifle layered with store- bought pound cake, homemade custard and fresh berries and whipped cream or some easy bar cookies layered with a chocolate crumb crust, a peanut butter and cream cheese mixture and topped with a chocolate glaze. Truffles that go together with three ingredients are another possibility.

If Mom is diabetic, offer her chocolate-dipped berries, pretzels, small cookies, angel food or pound cake cubes. Diabetics don't have to totally give up desserts, note the authors in the recently released ``Betty Crocker's Diabetes Cookbook,'' (Wiley Publishing; $24.95). ``The key is timing and moderation,'' and the book contains several tempting-sounding sweets.

``Lots of homey or comfort desserts are trendy these days,'' according to Susan Westmoreland, food editor of Good Housekeeping magazine and editor of the recently re-released ``Good Housekeeping Great Baking,'' (Hearst Books; $29.95). That includes items with fruits like cobblers and pan dowdies with fun presentations such as being baked and served in individual black skillets. Or sweet finales such as pecan or ginger shortcakes with berries.

But chocolate and caramel still rank tops in popularity, she adds. On restaurant menus you'll find all kinds of sundaes such as a tin roof - with hot fudge and salted peanuts - or a really decadent banana split with fabulous homemade toppings like caramel, fudge and berry. Classic coconut cake is another dessert offering that has recently seen a surge in popularity.

But when consumers make desserts at home, they want easy, delicious shortcuts. ``Although they love dessert, they are not making pastries as much as they used to,'' continues Westmoreland.

Among her personal fast finales (she's a major berry fan at this time of year) are individual ramekins of berries topped with drained yogurt, then covered with a layer of brown sugar and broiled. The berries stay cool underneath the warm topping. To drain the nonfat plain yogurt, she places it on a white paper towel in a strainer and allows it to drain over a bowl for a couple of hours or overnight in the fridge. If time is limited, you can use sour cream (do not drain) instead of yogurt to top the berries.

Another favorite is a yummy topping for ice cream made by melting a couple of tablespoons of butter in a skillet with 1/2 cup brown sugar until sizzling. Then add some sliced bananas or fresh pineapple slices, toss over medium heat until coated and serve over vanilla ice cream.

Westmoreland also likes to use her homemade biscuits as the base for shortcake with lots of fresh berries and whipped cream. Try cornmeal biscuits or use a biscuit mix if you're in a hurry, she suggests. She also keeps hot fudge sauce (made with unsweetened cocoa) on hand in the refrigerator for her husband's sundae fixes.

Another idea - and one people forget about - is choux or cream puff pastry. It's easy to make - and the puffs can be baked and stored airtight for two days in advance of serving. Fillings can include berries and whipped cream, pastry cream and berries, instant pudding mixes and berries or scoops of assorted ice creams topped with hot fudge sauce.

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE TORTE

10 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces

5 large egg yolks

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon dark rum OR brewed espresso (optional)

1 teaspoon vanilla

Pinch salt

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

Chocolate Glaze

Grease bottom of an 8-inch round cake pan and line with parchment (baking) paper. Butter paper and sides of pan, then dust with unsweetened cocoa powder. In top of a double boiler, combine chocolate and butter. Set over barely simmering water and melt, then whisk until well blended. Set aside to cool slightly. In a large bowl, with a mixer set on medium-high speed, beat together egg yolks, 1/4 cup sugar, dark rum, vanilla and salt until pale and very thick. Gradually pour in chocolate mixture and continue beating until well blended.

In a deep, clean bowl, using a mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites until foamy. Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue to beat until medium-firm peaks form. Scoop 1/2 of egg whites onto chocolate mixture and fold in gently. Fold in remaining whites just until no streaks remain.

Pour batter into prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake in a preheated 300-degree oven about 35 minutes, until torte puffs slightly and a toothpick inserted into center comes out very moist but not liquid. Do not overbake. Cook on a rack 30 minutes. Run a small knife around inside of pan to loosen cake, then invert onto a flat plate. Lift off pan and carefully peel off parchment paper. Cool completely. Cover and refrigerate until very cold, at least 4 hours or up to overnight. Glaze cake with Chocolate Glaze, then refrigerate again until firm, at least 2 hours. Transfer to a flat serving plate. Using a thin-bladed knife, cut cake into small slices, dipping knife into hot water and wiping it dry before each cut. Makes 1 (8-inch) cake or 10 servings.

CHOCOLATE GLAZE: Combine 1/2 cup butter, cut into 4 pieces, and 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate in top of a double boiler. Set over barely simmering water and melt, then whisk until well-blended. Remove from heat and whisk in 2 tablespoons light corn syrup until smooth and glossy. Set cold cake on a wire rack over a large plate or baking sheet. Slowly pour warm glaze over center of cake. Glaze should cover surface evenly, spilling over edges and running down sides, excess falling on to plate below.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Dessert.''

TRIFLE

4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch 

2 cups heavy whipping cream 

1 teaspoon vanilla

6 cups (1 1/2 pounds) mixed berries such as raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and halved strawberries, rinsed and towel-dried

3 tablespoons dark rum OR sweet sherry

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

6 slices pounds cake, EACH 1/2-inch thick

Sweetened whipped cream for serving

1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted

In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, 1/3 cup sugar and cornstarch until pale and well blended. Pour cream into a small saucepan over medium heat and bring just to a boil. Gradually add hot cream to egg mixture while whisking. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until just boiling and very thick, about 4 minutes. Pour into a clean bowl and stir in vanilla. Scrape down sides and gently press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours, or up to overnight.

In a large bowl, toss together berries, rum, lemon peel and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until well mixed. Cut each pound cake slice into 8 pieces. Arrange 1/2 of cake pieces snugly in bottom of a 2 1/2-quart serving bowl . Spoon 1/2 of berries along with 1/2 of juices over pound cake. Pour 1/2 of chilled custard over fruit. Top with layers of remaining pound cake and berries and their juices. Pour remaining custard over fruit. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 1 day. Just before serving, top with whipped cream and garnish with toasted almonds. Makes 10 servings.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Dessert.''

BONNETS

1 (18-ounce) package refrigerated sugar cookie dough OR 10 (4 1/2-inch) prepared sugar OR other cookies

10 medium cupcakes (2 1/2-inch), store-bought OR homemade

2 (16-ounce) containers white frosting

Assorted food colorings

Assorted candies (such as M&M's, Starburst Jellybeans and Fruit Chews, and Skittles)

Roll sugar cookie dough to 1/4-inch thickness and press or cut out 10 (4 1/2-inch) round cookies. Bake cookies according to directions on package. Set aside.

Remove paper cupcake liners from cupcakes. Slice off rounded top of cupcake. Ice top of cupcake with 1 tablespoon white frosting. Turn cupcake upside down (frosting side down) and place on cookie. Set ``cookie hats'' on wire rack.

Divide remaining white frosting into 4 bowls. Beginning with a few drops food coloring, tint frosting to desired pastel shade (yellow, blue, pink, etc.). One at a time, place frosting in microwave oven 15 seconds. Stir frosting and check for pourable consistency. Pour frosting over ``hats,'' covering them completely. Set aside 10 minutes. Decorate using candies. To make hat ribbons, unwrap fruit chews and soften in microwave 5 seconds. Then thinly roll and cut into thin ribbons and wrap around hats. Makes 10 cookie bonnets.

CREATIVE CRITTERS

Have chocolate sandwich cookies and miniature marshmallows on hand - as well as shoestring licorice, mini pretzel twists, decorating gel, melted chocolate and ready-to-spread frosting. Now you're ready to make ants and critters.

CENTIPEDE: Stack 9 (Oreo) Chocolate Sandwich Cookies together, spreading ready-to-spread white frosting between each cookie to secure; stand on edge. Secure an additional cookie with ``smiley face'' (if desired) design, slightly higher than the other cookies, to one end (of stacked cookies on edge) with additional frosting to form the centipede's ``head.'' Attach desired number of miniature marshmallows to each side of centipede with additional frosting for ``legs'' and 2 small pieces shoestring licorice to head for ``antennae.'' Makes 1 centipede (5 servings).

COOKIE FROG: Attach 2 mini pretzel twists to the bottom of an Oreo Sandwich Cookie with ready-to-spread white frosting for ``frog's legs.'' Attach 2 miniature marshmallows to top of cookie with additional frosting for ``eyes.'' Color eyes with decorating gel, if desired. Makes 1 frog.

COOKIE BUTTERFLY VARIATION: Attach pretzels to bottom of cookie as directed above for ``butterfly's wings.'' Turn cookie pretzel-side up. Attach 1 miniature marshmallow in front of wings for ``butterfly's head.'' Insert 2 small pieces of shoestring licorice into marshmallow for ``antennae.'' Use decorating gel to draw ``face.'' Makes 1 butterfly.

CHOCOLATE-COVERED ANT: Dip 2 miniature marshmallows in melted chocolate; attach end-to-end to form ``ant's body.'' Place on sheet of waxed paper. Insert 6 small pieces shoestring licorice into sides (3 on each side) of ant for ``legs'' and 2 pieces into front of ant for ``antennae.'' Let stand about 1 hour or until set. Makes 1 ant.

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

1 (6-ounce) package semisweet chocolate chips (1 cup)

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup crunchy peanut butter

Coatings: cocoa powder, finely chopped nuts, miniature chocolate chips, powdered sugar, flaked coconut

In a medium microwave-safe bowl, combine chocolate chips and whipping cream. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth and well blended when stirred. Stir in peanut butter until thoroughly blended. Chill mixture 4 hours or longer in refrigerator or until firm. Using a 1 1/4-inch diameter automatic release scoop, scoop up mixture and form balls. Roll in desired coatings and place on wax paper-lined pan. Refrigerate until serving. Serve cold. Makes about 2 dozen truffles.

ITALIAN-STYLE FRESH BERRY TART

Baked Sweet Pastry Crust for 11-inch Tart

3 large egg yolks

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter OR margarine

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

2 cups fresh blueberries

2 cups fresh raspberries

2 cups fresh blackberries

Powdered sugar

Prepare Sweet Pastry Crust; bake and cool as directed.

Meanwhile, in small bowl, with wire whisk, mix egg yolks and granulated sugar until blended. Stir in cornstarch until smooth. In a 2-quart saucepan, heat milk to simmering over medium heat. While constantly beating with wire whisk, gradually pour about 1/2 of simmering milk into egg-yolk mixture. Return egg-yolk-mixture to saucepan and cook, whisking constantly, until pastry cream has thickened and boils; reduce heat and cook, stirring 1 minute. Remove saucepan from heat; stir in butter and vanilla. Transfer pastry cream to medium bowl; cover surface directly with plastic wrap to prevent skin from forming and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours.

Up to 2 hours before serving, in small bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat cream just until stiff peaks form. Whisk pastry cream until smooth; fold in whipped cream. Spoon pastry cream mixture into baked tart shell and spread evenly; top with berries and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Refrigerate. Remove side of pan to serve. Makes 12 servings.

SWEET PASTRY CRUST FOR 11-INCH TART: In a large bowl, stir together 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, 1/4 cup sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt. With pastry blender or 2 knives used scissor-fashion, cut in 10 tablespoons cold butter, cut up (do not use margarine) until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, with fork, stir together 1 large egg yolk and 1/4 cup cold water. Pour into flour mixture and stir together until dough just forms a ball. Shape into a disk, wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

Place disk between 2 layers of lightly floured wax paper. Roll into 14-inch round. If dough becomes too soft to handle, return to refrigerator 5 minutes. Remove top sheet of wax paper and invert pastry into an 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom, gently pressing dough into bottom and up side of pan. Remove second sheet of wax paper. If dough cracks, gently press together. Run rolling pin over top of pan to trim excess dough. Refrigerate or freeze 10 to 15 minutes to firm pastry before baking. Line shell with foil and fill foil with pie weights, dry beans or uncooked rice. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 20 minutes. Remove foil and weights and bake 7 to 10 minutes longer or until golden brown. If crust puffs up during baking, gently press it to tart pan with back of spoon. Cool in pan on wire rack. Fill as directed. Makes 1 (11-inch) baked tart shell.

From ``Good Housekeeping Great Baking, 600 Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Breads, Pies and Pastries.''

CHOCOLATE DIPPERS 

1 (6-ounce) bag semisweet chocolate chips (1 cup)

1 tablespoon solid vegetable shortening

3 to 4 dozen assorted dippers (dried apricots, strawberries, maraschino cherries, pretzels, small cookies, angel food OR pound cake cubes)

Colored sugar or candy decors, if desired

Line a 15 1/2x10 1/2x1-inch jelly roll pan with wax paper. Heat chocolate chips and shortening in a heavy 1-quart saucepan over low heat, stirring frequently, until smooth; remove from heat. Dip any of the assorted dippers 3/4 way into chocolate; sprinkle with sugar. Place on wax paper-lined pan.

Refrigerate, uncovered, about 30 minutes or until chocolate is firm. Makes 3 to 4 dozen pieces. Three pieces contain 50 calories, 2 grams fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 25 milligrams sodium and 7 grams carbohydrates. Food exchanges: 1/2 fruit, 1/2 fat.

NOTE: For Vanilla Dippers, substitute 6 ounces vanilla flavored candy coating (almond bark), cut up, for chocolate chips. To make Double Dippers, dip fruit into melted chocolate chips, then drizzle with melted vanilla-flavored candy coating or sprinkle with crushed candies.

From ``Betty Crocker's Diabetes Cookbook: Everyday Meals Easy As 1-2-3.''

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE BARS

10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

2 cups finely ground chocolate cookie crumbs

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese

2/3 cup sugar

2 large eggs

3/4 cup smooth peanut butter

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

3 1/2 ounces bittersweet OR semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

Combine melted butter and cookie crumbs until blended. Press mixture evenly into bottom of a 9x13-inch baking pan. Bake in center of a preheated 325-degree oven about 15 minutes, until dry. Set aside to cool slightly.

Using an electric mixer, beat together cream cheese and sugar until smooth. Beat in eggs. Stir in peanut butter until smooth. With a rubber spatula, spread mixture evenly over baked crust. Return to 325-degree oven and bake 10 to 15 minutes, until set. Remove pan to a rack to cool to room temperature. Bring cream just to a boil. Using a wire whisk, beat in chocolate until smooth. With a rubber spatula, spread chocolate mixture evenly over peanut butter mixture. Refrigerate until firm. Cut into bars. Makes 18 (3x2-inch) bars.

From ``Joy of Cooking, All About Cookies,'' by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker.

Tips for better baking

``Baking is scientific, but it is also part magic,'' notes Susan Westmoreland in ``Good Housekeeping Great Baking.'' Here are some hints for success.

--Buy top-quality baking ingredients in a store with good turnover and check ``use by'' dates on any products that bear them.

--Measure ingredients accurately and with the proper equipment. For dry ingredients, use nested cups in various sizes, spoon in ingredients such as flour and sugar and then level the top by sweeping away the excess with the edge of a knife. For measuring liquid ingredients, use glass measuring cups.

--Always preheat the oven to desired temperature 10 to 15 minutes prior to baking. Check oven temperature with an oven thermometer to be sure it is accurate and matches the number set on the dial. Adjust the temperature up or down as necessary so your oven is properly calibrated.

--Always use a timer. If you'll be working in another room in the house, take it with you as a reminder.

--Generally, if baking in a glass dish you'll need to reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees F.

--Avoid using dark metal baking sheets and pans so cookies or baked desserts don't turn out dark, unappealing or burned. Heavy-duty aluminum or stainless pans yield best results.

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Make it for Mom

Desserts sweeten special day

From ``Good Housekeeping Great Baking'' Hearst Books

(2 -- color) Flourless Chocolate Torte

(3 -- color) Trifle

From ``Williams-Sonoma Dessert,'' Simon & Schuster 

(4 -- color) Bonnets

(5 -- color) Creative Critters

Box:

Tips for better baking (see text)