SWEET DREAMS ... ... ARE MADE OF THIS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Cheesecake ranks right up there with brownies, ice cream and chocolate chip cookies as one of America's favorite desserts. In Bon Appetit magazine's fourth annual reader survey, released in March, cheesecake topped the list of dessert favorites, followed by creme brulee and fresh fruit.

Cheesecake can trace its history back to the Greeks. In ``The Deiphosophists,'' a 15-volume anthology by the Greek scholar Athenaeus around A.D. 250, a large section was devoted to cheesecake and even provided recipes. Apparently, the first cheesecake was baked on Samos in the Aegean Islands. Cheese was forced through a bronze sieve, mixed with flour and honey and baked.

Passion for cheesecakes has continued through the centuries. In ``The American Century Cookbook,'' author Jean Anderson writes that the beginnings of the New York cheesecake rush began in the 1920s when Jewish delicatessens in that city began baking silky, rich cream-cheese cheesecakes. The one served by Lindy's in the '40s became the one by which all others are judged, she adds. < Since the '50s, cheesecake mania has been going strong - with a myriad of flavor and color combinations limited only by one's imagination. Flavor preferences may change, but cheesecake never goes out of style.

While purists like cheesecake plain or topped with sour cream, others prefer it loaded with all kinds of other goodies that add yummy taste and texture. Some favor their cheesecake creamy, light and airy, while others prefer a denser, drier style.

The Cheesecake Factory (with locations in Woodland Hills, Thousand Oaks, Brentwood, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Marina del Rey and elsewhere in Southern California) currently offers more than 35 different cheesecake flavors on its menu and the list keeps growing in response to consumer interest and demand. Among the newest selections are Sticky Chewy Chocolate Pecan, Lemon Raspberry, Passion Fruit, Kahlua Coffee Cocoa and Dulce de Leche cheesecakes.

Over the years, cheesecakes have topped the list of reader dessert requests in our Restaurant Replicas column. We've come up with numerous copycat versions, especially from the Cheesecake Factory, a few of the favorites included here today.

Cheese, of course, is the common denominator - with choices ranging from cream cheese (full-fat, Neufchatel or fat-free), to cottage cheese, ricotta, mascarpone, yogurt and various combinations. Fillings can run the gamut from chocolate and white chocolate to raspberry, pineapple, coconut, chocolate chips, Grand Marnier, Kahlua, candy bars, peanut butter, pecans, peanuts and macadamias.

A variety of decadent toppings - from fruits and ganaches to layers of mousses, whipped cream mixtures and chopped candies - can add the final fabulous touch.

PECAN TURTLE CHEESECAKE

This is a copycat version of a cheesecake sampled at the Cheesecake Factory.

1 (9-ounce) package chocolate wafer cookies, processed into crumbs in food processor

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

1 cup sugar

3 eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/2 cup whipping cream 

1 (12.25-ounce) jar caramel-flavored topping

1 3/4 cups coarsely chopped pecans

Ganache Topping

In a medium bowl, combine cookie crumbs and melted butter. Press into bottom and part way up sides of 9 1/2-inch springform pan. Set aside.

In bowl of an electric mixer, combine softened cream cheese and sugar. Beat until smooth. Beat in eggs, one at a time, vanilla and whipping cream. Beat on medium speed 5 minutes.

Turn 1/2 of batter into crumb-lined pan. Drizzle evenly with 1/2 of caramel topping. Top with remaining batter, spreading evenly over all. Sprinkle with pecans. Drizzle remaining caramel topping evenly over pecans.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 1 hour and 15 minutes or until cheesecake is almost set in center. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Spread Ganache Topping evenly over top of cake. Refrigerate several hours or overnight before serving. Makes 1 (9 1/2-inch) cheesecake.

GANACHE TOPPING: In a large microwave-safe bowl (OR in top of double boiler), combine 1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate pieces, 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 cup whipping cream and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Microcook on high (100 percent) power about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Remove from microwave and stir until smooth and thick (if necessary, return to microwave a few more seconds until mixture is smooth). Beat in 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces, and 1 egg yolk until well blended. Cool to room temperature and spread over top of cheesecake.

MASCARPONE CHEESECAKE

This is a facsimile of a cheesecake tasted at Buca di Beppo at Universal CityWalk.

1 cup graham cracker crumbs 

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1 (16-ounce) container mascarpone cheese

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

1 cup granulated sugar 

3 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 tablespoons flour

1 (12-ounce) package frozen raspberries

1/3 cup powdered sugar

Mix together graham crumbs and butter until well blended. Press into bottom and 1/2 inch up sides of an 8-inch springform pan.

In a large mixing bowl, beat together all remaining ingredients, except raspberries and powdered sugar, until smooth and creamy.

Turn filling into crust. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F and continue baking about 45 minutes or until set. Cool. Then refrigerate until cold.

Meanwhile in a food processor, combine raspberries and powdered sugar. Process until pureed. Chill until serving time. Serve cheesecake pieces topped with raspberry sauce. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

LIGHT RASPBERRY CHEESECAKE

1 cup finely crushed chocolate wafer crumbs

5 (8-ounce) packages neufchatel cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup sugar

4 eggs

1 (8-ounce) carton nonfat vanilla yogurt

4 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 cup raspberry fruit spread

Press crumbs into bottom (only) of lightly buttered 9-inch springform pan. (Wrap foil around bottom and part way up outside of pan to prevent leakage while baking).

In large bowl of an electric mixer, beat together cream cheese and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, yogurt and vanilla until smooth, about 2 to 3 minutes. Turn into crumb crust.

Using a pastry bag fitted with a tip with a round 1/4-inch opening (No. 8), pipe concentric circles of fruit spread on top of cheese mixture. With tip or point of a sharp knife gently make 8 equidistant lines from center to outside of cake, drawing knife carefully through raspberry spread to create a spider web design. If a pastry bag isn't available, drop small spoonfuls of raspberry spread all over top of batter.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees and continue baking 60 to 75 minutes longer. Cake should jiggle slightly in center. Cool. Refrigerate until well chilled. Cake slices can be served topped with whipped cream, if desired. Makes 12 to 14 servings.

OLD-FASHIONED CHEESECAKE

This cheesecake is reminiscent of one my grandmother made (out of a 1951 version of the ``Settlement Cookbook'') when I was growing up. I've tinkered with the ingredients a bit and streamlined it to use a food processor. It's light and delicious, ideal to serve after a heavy meal.

Zwieback Crust

3 cups low-fat cottage cheese

1 cup sugar

4 eggs

1 cup whipping cream

1/8 teaspoon salt

Juice and rind of 1/2 large lemon

1/4 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Prepare Zwieback Crust; set aside.

In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, blend together cottage cheese, sugar and eggs until smooth. Add remaining ingredients, processing until well mixed.

Turn into prepared crust. Sprinkle with reserved 3/4 cup crumb mixture. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until set. Turn off oven heat, open door and let cake remain in oven 1 hour. Cool, then chill in refrigerator several hours. Makes 10 servings.

ZWIEBACK CRUST: In food processor, crush 1 (6-ounce) package zwieback into fine crumbs. Add 1/2 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/3 cup melted butter, processing until well mixed. Set aside 3/4 cup of mixture to sprinkle on top of cheesecake. Press remaining mixture onto bottom and up sides of a 9-inch springform pan.

ENGLISH TOFFEE CHEESECAKE

CRUST:

1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/2 cup toasted almonds, finely chopped

1/2 cup English toffee bits (such as Skor)

2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

FILLING:

4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

4 large eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon almond extract 

8 ounces chocolate-covered English toffee (such as Skor OR Heath bars), cut into 1/2-inch pieces

TOPPING:

1 (16-ounce) container sour cream

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Assorted candies (such as gumdrops and M&M's)

For Crust: Mix first 5 crust ingredients in medium bowl. Add butter; stir until moist clumps form. Press mixture over bottom and 1 inch up sides of 10-inch-diameter springform pan. Bake crust in preheated 350-degree oven about 5 minutes or until just set. Set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees.

For Filling: Beat cream cheese and brown sugar in large bowl until blended. Beat in eggs, one at a time, blending well after each addition. Beat in vanilla and almond extract. Pour 1/2 of mixture into prepared crust; sprinkle with toffee pieces. Pour remaining mixture over. Bake until edges are puffed but center is barely set, about 55 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare Topping: Mix sour cream, granulated sugar and vanilla in medium bowl until smooth. Pour topping over hot cheesecake. Bake cake until topping is just set, about 5 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool 10 minutes. Run knife between cake and pan sides. Chill cake, uncovered, overnight. Remove pan sides and place cake on platter. Garnish top with candies. Makes 12 servings.

From Bon Appetit, December 2000 issue.

NEW YORK CHEESECAKE

1 cup graham cracker crumbs

1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons butter OR margarine, melted

5 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

3 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon vanilla

3 eggs

1 cup dairy sour cream

1 (21-ounce) can cherry pie filling (optional)

Mix crumbs, 3 tablespoons sugar and butter; press onto bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 10 minutes.

Mix cream cheese, remaining 1 cup sugar, flour and vanilla in large bowl with electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed after each addition, just until blended. Blend in sour cream. Pour over crust.

Bake 1 hour and 5 minutes to 1 hour and 10 minutes or until center is almost set. Run knife or metal spatula around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim of pan. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Top with pie filling. Store leftover cheesecake in refrigerator. Makes 14 servings.

ORANGE CHEESECAKE WITH CARAMEL SAUCE

CRUST:

11 whole graham crackers, broken

1/4 cup sugar

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

FILLING:

4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature

1 1/3 cups sugar

6 large eggs

3 tablespoons orange liqueur

5 teaspoons finely grated orange peel

2 teaspoons vanilla

CARAMEL SAUCE:

2 cups sugar

1/2 cup water

3/4 cup whipping cream

3 tablespoons orange liqueur

For Crust: Finely grind crackers and sugar in food processor. Add butter; process until crumbs are moist. Press onto bottom of 9-inch-diameter springform pan with 2 1/2-inch high sides. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven until set, 12 minutes. Transfer to rack; cool. Maintain oven temperature.

For Filling: Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar in large bowl until smooth. Beat in next 4 ingredients. Pour filling atop crust in pan.

Bake about 1 hour 10 minutes, until cake is puffed, outer 2-inch edge is set and center moves just slightly when shaken. Transfer cake to rack. Run knife around pan sides to loosen; cool 1 hour. Chill cheesecake overnight (or up to 2 days).

For Caramel Sauce: Stir sugar and 1/2 cup water in medium saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat; boil without stirring until syrup turns deep amber, brushing down sides of pan with wet pastry brush and swirling pan, 9 minutes. Remove from heat. Add cream (mixture will bubble vigorously). Stir over low heat until smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk in liqueur. Serve cheesecake slices with sauce. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``The Flavors of Bon Appetit 2001,'' by the Editors of Bon Appetit, Clarkson Potter.

--For ease in cutting, use a knife that has been immersed in hot water and dried or a long strand of unflavored dental floss (stretch taut, press through to bottom of cake and pull out.

--Some experts note that drafts (caused by opening the oven door) can cause cheesecakes to fall or crack, so avoid opening the door, especially during the first half of the baking time.

--For a smooth filling mixture, be sure cheese is soft or at room temperature. If necessary, soften cream cheese in a microwave oven for a few seconds, watching carefully. Substitute reduced-fat and fat-free cream cheeses in recipes at your own risk - they are softer and more watery and may yield different-textured results. For best results, rely on recipes developed calling for those specific ingredients.

< LOW-FAT BERRY CHEESECAKE

3 (8-ounce) packages fat-free cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

3 eggs

1/3 cup graham cracker crumbs

1 1/2 cups sliced strawberries, raspberries and blueberries

Mix cream cheese, sugar and vanilla with an electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add eggs; mix just until blended.

Spray a 9-inch pie plate with non-stick cooking spray; sprinkle bottom with crumbs. Pour cream cheese mixture into prepared pie plate.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 45 minutes or until center is almost set. Cool. Refrigerate 3 hours or overnight. Top with fruit. Makes 10 servings, 170 calories and 3 grams fat per serving.

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE CHEESECAKE

1 1/2 cups crushed chocolate sandwich cookies (about 18 cookies such as Oreos)

2 tablespoons butter OR margarine, melted

3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

8 squares semi-sweet chocolate, melted slightly and cooled

1/4 cup hazelnut liqueur (optional)

3 eggs

For Crust: Mix crumbs and butter; press onto bottom of 9-inch springform pan. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 10 minutes.

For Filling: Mix cream cheese, sugar and vanilla with electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Blend in melted chocolate and liqueur. Add eggs, mixing on low speed just until blended. Pour over crust.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 55 to 60 minutes or until center is almost set. Run knife or metal spatula around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim of pan. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Makes 12 servings.

Achieving cheesecake perfection

Here are a few handy hints for cheesecake success.

--For best results, use the pan size specified in the recipe. Springform pans - with a removable bottom and a spring-lock on the side for easy removal - in a variety of sizes ranging from 7 to 8 inches to more than 10 inches in diameter - are used in most instances.

--Vary crusts according to personal likes and tastes. Shortbread cookies, graham crackers, Zwieback, vanilla or chocolate wafers, gingersnaps, Oreos, Amaretti, a variety of other cookies, sweet pastry and cut-up cake slices all work well for dessert cheesecakes. For additional variety, add toasted coconut, finely ground nuts or a dash of spice such as cinnamon. You can also simply make a coconut or nut or chocolate nut crust, if desired.

--Because some cheesecake pans leak a bit - and the butter in the crust may seep out - line the outside of the springform with heavy-duty foil or a double thickness of regular foil. This may help you avoid having to clean a messy oven.

--Bake cheesecakes in the center of a preheated oven. Some recipes call for baking the cheesecake at one moderate temperature throughout; others start the cheesecake at a high oven temperature for 10 to 15 minutes and then reduce it to a lower temperature (I've had good luck with this method). Experiment if you feel inclined.

--Test cheesecakes for doneness five to 10 minutes before time specified on recipe. Cheesecake is done when it jiggles slightly in center. Some baking experts advise avoiding inserting a knife into center as it could cause cracks. Keep in mind that the center of the cheesecake will continue to cook as it cools. Avoid overbaking as it can cause browning and puffing and sometimes weeping upon cooling.

--Cracks and falls are natural to cheesecakes, but the problem, say some bakers, can be reduced by cooling cheesecakes slowly in the oven with the door open two to three hours or until the oven reaches room temperature. Pam Anderson, author of ``The Perfect Recipe,'' advises baking cheesecakes in a boiling-water bath to prevent cracks.

To help avoid cracking during the cooling process, run a sharp knife around the inside edge of the pan so that the cake can pull away freely as it contracts.

Some cheesecakes, particularly dense ones, sink when cooled. If your cheesecake falls or cracks, remember that it doesn't affect the texture or flavor. Simply garnish with whipped cream, sour cream, berries, nuts or a layer of chocolate ganache - and no one will know.

--Be sure to refrigerate cheesecakes several hours or overnight before serving. Run a thin knife around the inside edge before removing pan rim.

--Cheesecakes are best eaten within three to four days of baking. Store well-covered in refrigerator to keep it from drying out. Most cheesecakes can be frozen (except for those made with cottage cheese), but they are best eaten within a month. Thaw in refrigerator, which will take about 12 hours.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Cheesecake

A slice of heaven 

(2 -- 4 -- color) Cheesecakes come in a variety of flavors and styles and can be gussied up with fudge or caramel sauce, whipped cream, fruits, etc.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer

(5) no caption (cheesecake)

Box: Achieving cheesecake perfection (see text)