SUSHI ON THE HIGH END.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

>RESTAURANT CRITIC

A sushi bar and cafe a few steps down the street from Sushi Nozawa, consistently named a top Los Angeles-area restaurant by the Zagat Survey, is obviously very brave and very risky.

Not only that, but the rest of Studio City hums with competitive sushi knives slicing through the air daily at numerous spots, especially on Ventura Boulevard.

But it didn't deter Kazutoyo Moribe from setting up shop in the former Vineyard Terrace space. His diminutive sign, hardly noticeable and scripted in difficult-to-interpret letters, tells us the restaurant's name is Yuta.

Actually, Yuta presents itself more as an upscale Japanese cafe with more emphasis on its table service than on its bar-viewing sushi skills.

The main menu, relatively short and simple, lists six starters, six salads, seven cold plates and seven hot dishes, these in addition to a daily selection of sushi, usually 10 to 12 items.

The latter, crafted from the freshest of raw fish and seafood, differs somewhat from the norm, being entirely prepared with premises-polished brown rice and priced from $2.50 to $9 per single piece.

Consequently, if a twosome decides to share every sushi item ordered, each piece has to be cut in half, or two pieces have to be requested. This means the equivalent of $5 to $18 per two-piece item.

To Yuta's credit, there's no apparent stinginess in slabs of fish. They are definitely thicker and bigger than those served at nearby competitors.

Yuta does it a bit differently. Each piece receives specialized seasoning treatment by the sushi chef, from the simple soy saucing of house oishi shoyu and fresh hon-wasabi on delectable, individual snacks of big-eye tuna ($3) and yellowtail ($3.50) to the garlic and ginger flavorings and ponzu-sauced albacore tuna ($2.50) topped with onions or chives.

But if you prefer your sushi "neat," to allow you to season it with soy sauce and wasabi yourself, all you have to do is ask when ordering.

Delicious amberjack sushi ($3.50) comes forth with sliced jalapeno and ponzu sauce. It's available as a larger sashimi plate ($18) in similar fashion.

From the starter list, I've enjoyed chilled, fresh, raw, Hama-hama Washington state oysters ($2 each) topped with a tart, citric, yuzu and clam gelee.

I've also had the decent red miso soup ($3) -- white miso is an alternative option -- sprinkled with tofu and wakame. A flavorless bright green liquid is dubbed "house vegetable soup" ($6). The latter, a creamy mixture made with organic vegetables and soybean milk, couldn't be helped even with liberal doses of sea salt and pepper.

Broiled beef roll ($18) -- made with sliced, tender, juicy filet mignon wrapped around asparagus and leek, flanked by tiny daubs of mashed potato and sauced with a lightly peppered au jus -- provides an outstanding hot main dish, possibly equaled only by the grilled black cod ($18).

The velvety soft black cod, also known as sable or butter fish, arrives marinated in sweet saikyo miso, paired with grilled shimeji mushrooms and pickled ginger.

Like just about everything at Yuta, it's beautifully presented, definitely not hearty, and nearly always palate friendly.

At its best: Light, lovely and superbly presented, superior Japanese fare.

Could be better: The house organic vegetable soup needs a flavor boost, and prices seem a little steep at times for medium- to small-sized plates.

YUTA - Two and one half stars

>Details: 11266 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Open for dinner only from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. nightly except Sunday. [phone].

>Cost: Starters from $2 to $6, salads and main plates from $10 to $24, desserts $5 and $6 each.

>Noteworthy: Use of ricotta, Parmesan and bleu cheese with seafood dishes. Also, a mini-list of half a dozen well-chosen wines by the small carafe ($10 to $15) or bottle ($35 to $58), along with a small sake selection. Also Gloria Ferrer brut sparkling wine (glass $6, bottle $35), which is always good with sushi, sashimi and light foods.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Owner Kazutoyo "Yuta" Moribe, left, sushi chef Hideki Mara and manager Hisashi Watanabe present Japanese fare at Yuta, in Studio City.

TOM MENDOZA>LA.COM