SUSHI, SUPERBLY HOUSE OF TAKA A CONTENDER FOR BEST IN THE VALLEY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THERE ARE NO FRILLS AT Sushi House of Taka in Sherman Oaks, but customers don't care that much about the trappings. The food's the thing here, that's for sure.

Good sushi chefs quickly develop a following. And chef-owner Taka is no exception.

Enthusiastic patrons don't mind that the facade of the restaurant is under construction. Or that the interior is a sort of utilitarian mish-mash.

There's even a popular little makeshift patio dining area in the rear.

But there's nothing makeshift about Taka's fare.

Whether you sit at the small sushi bar or at a table in one of the dining areas, you'll receive attentive, knowledgeable service and be generally fulfilled and happy at the end of a meal.

At first glance Taka's Japanese sushi, sashimi and rolls seem to be much the same as any of the multitude of sushi cafes on today's local culinary landscape.

But you soon discover that there's more freshness, more finesse, more follow-through in everything ordered here.

For example, just about every sushi bar serves scallop sushi.

But Taka comes up with what he calls J-scallop sushi ($3.80) which utilizes large, imported Japanese scallops, extra sweet, described as jumbo, and cut thick and satisfying with a touch of sea salt and a squeeze of lemon juice along with a suggestion that you eat them this way because they're too delicate for fiery wasabi and strong soy sauce.

Whether the J in J-scallop means Japanese or jumbo or both doesn't matter. What matters is the result. And Taka's scallop sushi, when eaten unadulterated, is simply jolly good.

And another example. Most sushi bars have soft shell crab. But it's nearly always the frozen stuff, even when it's available fresh, in season, as it is right now.

Not at Taka.

Chef Taka will show you the squirming, live soft shell crab before he cooks it lightly battered and sauteed ($8.50) as a superb appetizer or as a light, fluffy spider roll ($8.50) served warm and cut into six or eight pieces, easy to share with dining companions.

You may be intrigued, as I was one time, by one sushi item on Taka's list called a stuffed tomato ($6.50).

This turns out to be a spherically shaped tidbit wrapped in reddish- toned tuna with a stuffing of a spicy scallop mixture blended with rice. It's very tasty.

Another of Taka's goodies not to be missed is the Taka version of ceviche, Japanese style ($8), which comes forth as a generous portion of sashimi-type pieces of tuna, yellowtail, halibut, albacore and salmon floating in a spicy marinade of vinegary ponzu sauce boosted with diced onion, tomato and jalapenos.

It's a kick and a half.

Somewhat milder, but just as gratifying, are appetizer renditions of baked green mussels ($5.50), sometimes cut and removed from the shell, combined with avocado and mayonnaise, placed back in the shell and baked to sizzling goodness, and the Korean-style kal-bi marinated, barbecued beef ribs ($7), a melty, meaty wonder.

Or if you're an oyster fancier, you may be lucky and see fresh Hama- Hamas from the Northwest or the like on the specials board.

Taka dipped five of them in a frothy, feathery batter one night, quickly deep-fried them in fresh oil and served them up with a tartarlike dipping sauce. Priced at a reasonable $5.80, they were unquestionably as grand as fried oysters get.

He makes a dandy lobster roll ($8) as well.

So, for those in the mood for shellfish, Taka should be at the top of the list of considerations, possibly as the No. 1 destination in the Valley.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

SUSHI HOUSE OF TAKA

Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Three stars.

Where: 4627 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Fresh oysters, Japanese-style ceviche, live soft shell crab, kal-bi ribs, baked green mussels, J-scallop sushi, stuffed ``tomato,'' lobster roll, caterpillar roll.

How much: Starters and sushi from $3.60 to $11, dinner entrees $9.25 to $15.75, desserts $2.25 and $3.25.

Wine list: Very limited. Sakes and beers are beverages of choice.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

(1 -- 2) Owner Taka Tanaka serves up a plate of specialties at Sushi House of Taka in Sherman Oaks, above left. Among the restaurant's offerings is the Red Dragon Roll, above, featuring tuna and shrimp tempura.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer