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SUMMER'S LOOKING SWELL FOR L.A. SURFERS.


Byline: DANA BARTHOLOMEW Staff Writer

MALIBU - The waves rolled in as precision half-pipes, perfect 6-footers curling toward the beach.

While residents along Atlantic and Gulf coasts girded for a fearsome hurricane season Hurricane season refers to a period in a year when hurricanes usually form. For more information see: Tropical cyclone#Times of formation.

For a lists of past seasons, see:
  • The Atlantic hurricane season (see also )
, Southland surfers waxed their boards Friday for what some expect to be a surf's-up summer.

``I'm so excited,'' said Britlyn Coleman, 16, of Malibu, pointing her 9-foot-4 longboard A longboard generally designates a longer board variant in various .
  • Longboard (surfing)
  • Longboard (skateboard)
 toward the breakers off Surfrider Beach Surfrider Beach is a famous right-break that had a big impact on the surfing culture in Southern California in the 1960s. Located near the Malibu pier, it is still probably the most surfed spot in Los Angeles County. .

``It starts to get, like, a vibe to it -- like, whoa, a good summer now.''

As news of the third major swell of spring swept over the Internet, surfers paddled like penguins through morning June gloom to meet the breakers offshore.

Friday's 4- to 6-foot swells, formed by a storm deep in the Southern Hemisphere off Antarctica, had taken nine days to cross the 4,700 miles to Southern California Southern California, also colloquially known as SoCal, is the southern portion of the U.S. state of California. Centered on the cities of Los Angeles and San Diego, Southern California is home to nearly 24 million people and is the nation's second most populated region, .

``Waves are the great travelers of the ocean,'' said Bill Patzert, research oceanographer at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory “JPL” redirects here. For other uses, see JPL (disambiguation).

Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) is a NASA research center located in the cities of Pasadena and La Cañada Flintridge, near Los Angeles, California, USA.
 in La Canada Flintridge.

``Some of those great swells will barrel out of the Southern Hemisphere, across the Equator and take dead aim at southern-facing California beaches.''

Patzert, a surfing veteran of the North Shore of Oahu, was loathe to predict high surf until the end of summer, while other forecasters see a better-than-average season.

They predict that steady southern storms and neutral Pacific currents -- between a warm El Nino and a cold La Nina La Niña  
n.
A cooling of the ocean surface off the western coast of South America, occurring periodically every 4 to 12 years and affecting Pacific and other weather patterns.
 -- will make for glassy summer surf with few riptides.

``Along the beaches, it'll be average or slightly better-than-average for southern-facing beaches -- Malibu to County Line,'' said Nathan Cool Nathan Cool is a noted pioneer of long range marine forecasting and surf prediction.[1]

Cool is the Chief Forecaster for WetSand Inc. and founder of the forecasting service WaveCast.
 of Newbury Park, chief forecaster for wetsand.com, a popular surf prediction site.

``These storms will definitely make for a good surfing summer -- not flat surf, but not dangerously big, either.''

While they hunt the Internet each day for positive surf predictions, most surfers took a laid-back approach when it comes to prognosticating their favorite pastime.

Patzert said researchers are able to predict high surf only a week in advance, using satellite images of ocean typhoons and knowledge of the ``great storms of the roaring '40s and '50s.''

``My board's waxed. I'm good to go. And I'm optimistic,'' said Patzert.

``But that's not based on anything scientific -- it's just the surfer's credo.''

Internet predictions have changed surfing, some say for the worse, as everyone with a board becomes as savvy toward summer swells as a seasoned oceanographer.

But Bill Robinson, captain of lifeguard operations for the Los Angeles County Fire Department Not to be confused with Los Angeles Fire Department.

The Los Angeles County Fire Department (LACoFD), serves unincorporated parts of Los Angeles County, as well as 58 cities and towns that choose to have the county provide fire and EMS services, including the City of La
, is among the seasoned few who can predict the next day's surf based on the swells that roll past Malibu Pier.

``We're gettin' some pretty good swells this year,'' said Robinson. ``It's lookin' pretty good. ... With the Internet, everybody drops work and as soon as there's a swell, they're here.''

A milky mist rose off Malibu as the sun broke to highlight dozens of surfers north of Malibu Pier. The sea, 58 degrees last week, had warmed to a relatively toasty toast·y  
adj. toast·i·er, toast·i·est
Pleasantly warm.
 65.

Longboarders mingled with shortboarders. Valley surfers lined up with Malibu locals. ``Shredders'' kept their distance from less skilled ``barneys'' or ``kooks.'' Pelicans hovered past a roiling sea.

``I'm ready I'm Ready is the double platinum second release from R&B singer Tevin Campbell. I'm Ready yielded the biggest R&B hit of his career the #1 R&B smash "Can We Talk", and produce 3 more successful hits in "I'm Ready", "Always In My Heart" and "Don't Say Goodbye Girl".  to go,'' said Chris Wilder Christopher (Chris) John Wilder, born Stocksbridge, 23 September 1967, is a former professional footballer, who has been manager at Halifax Town since 2002.

He started his career as a trainee at Southampton and was released without making it into the first team.
, 48, of Santa Monica Santa Monica (săn`tə mŏn`ĭkə), city (1990 pop. 86,905), Los Angeles co., S Calif., on Santa Monica Bay; inc. 1886. Tourism and retailing are important, and the city has motion-picture, biotechnology, and software industries. , readying his four-fin quad.

``It's a good day today and when the tide comes in, it'll be even bigger,'' said Ray Torres, 63, of Simi Valley, waxing his 10-footer.

``Whatever the summer brings, it's usually good enough. There haven't been many summers where it isn't good, especially here.''

dana.bartholomew(at)dailynews.com

(818) 713-3730

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) Jason Rouse, 28, of Malibu rides a wave Friday at Surfrider Beach in Malibu. Southland surfers are hoping for more big waves and smooth surf this summer.

(2 -- 3 -- color) Above right, Britlyn Coleman, 16, of Malibu said she can feel a good summer vibe as she practices her craft at Surfrider Beach on Friday. At right, Ray Torres, 63, of Simi Valley waxes his longboard before heading into the water at the Malibu surf spot.

(4) A surfer catches a wave at Malibu's Surfrider Beach on Friday.

Tina Burch/Staff Photographer
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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Jun 3, 2006
Words:682
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