STYLE ON TRIAL; ATTIRE OF TV LAWYERS JUDGED BY A JURY OF THEIR PEERS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor - Barbara De Witt

Talk about legal briefs.

Back in Perry Mason and Della Street's day, you wouldn't see legal eaglets like Ally McBeal arguing a case in a short skirt and sandals.

No way. But then ``Perry Mason'' was a TV drama, and ``Ally McBeal'' is, after all, a comedy about a ditsy girl who wears miniskirts by day and sheep-print pajamas by night.

As unrealistic as the hit show may be, Fox's ``Ally McBeal'' has started a major fashion trend among young women that's got the legal community buzzing.

According to Karen Newlove, the marketing director of O'Melveny & Myers, the oldest law practice in Los Angeles, ``It's a favorite program around here, and it's sort of frightening, since we're a very conservative firm.''

Burbank's Senior Assistant City Attorney Carolyn Barnes works in the more liberal public sector, and she also holds ``Ally McBeal'' in contempt of court. Says Barnes, ``We wear contemporary styles with short skirts - but not that short.''

Even younger members of firms - such as the Woodland Hills-based civil law firm of Bollington, Stilz, Bloesser & Curry, which has a reputation for its attractive female attorneys - stop short of short skirts.

``Ally is a very modern look that's being copied by law students ... but I find it silly,'' says the firm's Wendy LaBarge, who has been practicing law for three years.

Her co-worker Laura Russo, with only three years under her belt, agrees. ``No attorney in her right mind would wear a skirt shorter than 4 inches above the knee. I don't care how good your legs look,'' she comments.

Asked how she thought a client would react to an attorney in the ``Ally McBeal'' uniform, Russo laughs. ``A male client would certainly look at her but not take her seriously. And a woman client would be catty. Neither would be able to focus on what the attorney could do for them,'' she adds.

While LaBarge and Russo's office has no carved-in-stone rules about appropriate attire, O'Melveny & Myers does.

The company has an employee manual that prohibits such casual Friday favorites as khaki pants and a sweater or sport coat, denim clothing, open-toed shoes and sneakers, and long hair or earrings on men.

``Being an attorney is a conservative endeavor. You are going to get a client out from under a problem from hell, and that client wants a person who can dress themselves accordingly to do it,'' says Newlove.

Accordingly? O'Melveny & Myers has 650 attorneys who handle all kinds of cases, so the dress code will vary. According to Newlove, a bank attorney might wear a blue shirt with white collar and cuffs under a dark blue suit, while an entertainment or fashion industry attorney might wear a dark shirt and tie with the latest Italian suit or even dare to wear red. And senior litigators with a lot of confidence often wear gray pinstripes.

Russo and LaBarge are still rookies, but they love pinstripes. Says Russo, ``It was the first item I bought, because I think it's such a serious business look.''

Both women have accumulated several pinstriped suits in their wardrobes, but they still pull out a navy number for closing arguments. ``Navy is both serious and sincere,'' explains Russo.

Perhaps that's why it's also a favorite choice for job interviews.

For more ideas on winning looks, both attorneys watch ABC's ``The Practice.'' Although the prime-time program features numerous attorneys, they both focus on actress Lara Flynn Boyle, commenting that her dark sweater worn under a suit jacket, the Coach handbag and single strand of pearls are great looks. ``Unlike some jewelry, pearls personify sincerity,'' LaBarge says.

Their amusement over ``Ally McBeal'' and their respect for ``The Practice'' is no surprise to Loree Parral, since she's the costumer who set the fashion pace for both TV series, which were created by David E. Kelley.

In defense of ``Ally McBeal,'' Parral says, ``We tried to make a young lawyer look a little different with shorter skirts. She (Calista Flockhart) has great legs, so it worked well and looked cute, especially with a longer jacket. For me, it was the epitome of the Ally wardrobe, but it wasn't meant to be a reality-based look like ``The Practice.''

This season, ``Ally'' has a new costumer, Rachel Stanley, who says the star will be wearing more colorful suits in hues such as lavender and green, but she'll continue to show plenty of thigh.

Meanwhile, Parral works to keep the ``The Practice'' fashions fresh but courtroom-savvy. To do both, Parral says she observes a lot of real-life courtroom dramas and then creates a color palette for the show. ``In real life, you might have both attorneys showing up in navy blue, but on television you've got to have variety, so this season it's a dark, cool, serious palette with different shades and styles used to define each character,'' she says.

For instance, Lara Flynn Boyle, who plays a deputy district attorney with sophisticated taste but little money, wears all tones of gray, sometimes accented with black.

Another high-profile member of ``The Practice'' has pushed the envelope much like ``Ally McBeal'' and the jury is still out. Only this time the subject is pantsuits.

``Traditionally, women don't go to court in pantsuits, but Eleanor, the character played by Camryn Manheim, is a rebel ... and no one questions her authority in pants,'' says Parral.

Although LaBarge, Russo and Barnes say they'd never wear pants to court, Parral has been known to set major fashion trends among attorneys. Remember that surplice (wrap-front) blouse worn by Susan Dey in ``Law and Order''?

``We had no idea it would become so popular. We just wanted the character to look strong and sexy ... and be able to hammer a strong point in the courtroom ... and that blouse worked,'' Parral recalls.

The right skirt and blouse, the perfect pumps and the designer haircut all help, but even on TV it doesn't always win the case.

``Look at Marcia Clark in the O.J. Simpson case. She was effectively dressed, but in the end, it wouldn't have mattered what she wore,'' says Russo.

Maybe. But did anybody notice that Clark didn't wear pearls?

SIDEBAR CONFERENCE

No courtroom drama is complete without plaintiffs, defendants and a jury. They may be minor players by TV standards, but they still need to visit the wardrobe department. Forget terms like fresh and fashion-forward, and think instead about looking earnest and honest, says attorney Laura Russo, who offers these guidelines:

You're the client? Make sure you're neat and clean with modest clothing, preferably in medium to dark blue, or perhaps brown, dark gray or burgundy. Try to avoid black, as it is still associated with funerals and artsy types, says Russo.

Leave the jeans and shrunken sweater that exposes your navel at home. Ditto with the excessive jewelry (especially nose rings) and pink hair.

Uh oh. You're the criminal defendant?

Says Russo, ``You need to look like you're worth putting back on the street.'' Especially for that last day in court (just before the jury decides if you're guilty or not), she advises a woman to wear a demure dress (solid color instead of flowers or polka dots) or a dark suit, and a man to wear a dark suit and tie.

You're victim of a nasty divorce? Don't look too polished or you won't get much sympathy or money.

You're the witness? Go for a look that gives you credibility - dark (but not black) suit and white shirt. Guys, consider a rep-striped tie.

Your number was called and you don't want to be a juror? Wear a T-shirt with an obnoxious comment across the front to send the message you're too opinionated to be open-minded. Torn, dirty sneakers couldn't hurt.

You're dying to be a juror? Don't wear a suit or you'll look too polished (translation: smart) and the attorneys may not pick you. The ideal juror, says Russo, has the Gap look. She suggests women wear slacks and a twinset, and men wear khaki pants and a polo shirt.

CAPTION(S):

9 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) DOES COURTROOM ATTIRE COME UP SHORT?

TV's `Ally McBeal' aside, real-life attorneys go for the conservative look when they approach the bench 

(2--Color) VERDICT: WINNING LOOKS

Attorneys Wendy LaBarge, left, and Laura Russo of Bollington, Stilz, Bloesser & Curry in Woodland Hills find it easier to win cases in conservative suits with a minimum of accessories. To make their closing arguments, LaBarge wears a zip-front suit by Gustavo, and Russo opts for a sheath and matching coat by INC. Both chose dark blue. As every legal eagle knows, it's the color of sincerity. (Photographed at the University of LaVerne College of Law in Woodland Hills.)

Andy Holzman/Daily News

(3--Color) VERDICT: OBJECTION SUSTAINED

Ally McBeal (played by Calista Flockhart) appealed to the judge for fashion freedom and won, but real-life judges want a conservative approach to the bench. According to local attorneys, short skirts and sexy sandals are not admissible.

(4--Color) VERDICT: COURTROOM CLOUT

``Law & Order'' keeps getting new assistant DAs, but last season's Jamie Ross (Carey Lowell, heading off to court with Sam Waterston, who plays assistant DA Jack McCoy) set the fashion pace for real-life attorneys with her open-collared blouse, conservative suit and professional pumps.

(5--Color) VERDICT: CASE DISMISSED

On ``To Have & to Hold,'' public defender Annie Cornell (Moira Kelly, left, with co-star Jason Beghe as detective Sean McGrail) has trouble arguing her case in a a tight sweater, even if it is the fashion must-have of the year. However, her skirt is the right length, and she has those winning shoes.

(6--Color) VERDICT: HUNG JURY 

``The Practice'' has plenty of courtroom drama and realistic clothes, say local attorneys, who describe district attorney Lara Flynn Boyle, seated, and defense lawyer Kelli Williams, top left, as stylish role models. Attorney Camryn Manheim, top right, is making a good case for pantsuits in real-life courtrooms, but the jury's still out.

WE REST OUR CASE

(7--Color) Exhibit A: The pearls. Last seen on a lawyer in your local courtroom and on that oh-so-realistic TV show ``The Practice.'' Real or fake, a single strand is awesomely sincere.

(8--Color) Exhibit B: The shoes. DAs and wanna-bes find them sturdy and stable for approaching the bench. First seen last season on the feet of ``Law & Order'' assistant DA Jamie Ross (Carey Lowell).

(9--Color) Exhibit C: The purse. Notice the genuine leather, the traditional styling and the brand name, Coach. It's proof you're a courtroom success. Often seen with matching briefcase.

Box: SIDEBAR CONFERENCE (See Text)