STRIKING IT RICH FABRIZIO'S LOCATION IS NEW, BUT ITS MENU EMPHASIZES THE OLD FAVORITES.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic THE NONDESCRIPT building that houses the new quarters of Fabrizio in Thousand Oaks belies its warm Italianate interior. With several fluffy-curtained, quasi-private booths, interior Roman columns, antique-looking furnishings and a relatively quiet environment other than the pianist tinkling tin·kle v. tin·kled, tin·kling, tin·kles v.intr. 1. To make light metallic sounds, as those of a small bell. 2. Informal To urinate. v.tr. 1. in the background, the main dining room of the new Fabrizio lends itself to comfortable, upscale dining. Even romantic. The trappings are there, the food almost. Fabrizio's fare is more reminiscent of the old-fashioned Italian-continental style - lots of creamy, liquor-infused sauces - than of today's lighter, modern Italian alta cucina. But give its kitchen credit; most of the dishes have resounding re·sound v. re·sound·ed, re·sound·ing, re·sounds v.intr. 1. To be filled with sound; reverberate: The schoolyard resounded with the laughter of children. 2. , buoyant flavors. And diners appear to be quite satisfied at meal's end. Many of Fabrizio's customers are regulars, having patronized pa·tron·ize tr.v. pa·tron·ized, pa·tron·iz·ing, pa·tron·iz·es 1. To act as a patron to; support or sponsor. 2. To go to as a customer, especially on a regular basis. 3. the restaurant for the past 18 years at a different location. Thus, the old-fashioned approach makes commercial sense. Why change a good thing? Those good things, as noted, include such boozy sauces as both a cognac and garlic sauce and a vodka-mustard sauce, used separately with shrimp; a cognac and gorgonzola sauce with steak and veal dishes; and a Calvados Calvados (kälvädôs`), department (1990 pop. 621,300), in Normandy, N France, on the English Channel. Caen is the capital. (apple brandy) sauce with pork tenderloin. No question these are rich, fulfilling recipes, but seemingly old school. On a char-broiled, medium rare, juicy, fair-size, New York steak, a cognac, pepper and fresh herbs saucing gives it a classic French-style finish. Dress the plate up with crispy snow peas and al dente carrots and you have a satisfying dinner plate. But is it Italian? At lunch one day, medallions of veal ($18.95), reasonably thick and tender, complemented by the same vegetables, arrive with an ultra-rich, cognac-infused, mushroom and gorgonzola sauce. Definitely Italian. And yes, quite gratifying grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. , yet probably a mite too heavy for most lunchers. Lighter and oh-so-melty is the kitchen's salmon romantico ($21.95), poached poach 1 tr.v. poached, poach·ing, poach·es To cook in a boiling or simmering liquid: Poach the fish in wine. quickly in sparkling wine and finished with a lemon-caper sauce, resulting in probably the best dish experienced here. Pastas get an affirmative nod, though they range from $15 to $22 for entree-size servings at dinner time. One of the better renditions recently was a gnocchi gnoc·chi pl.n. Dumplings made of flour, semolina, or potatoes, boiled or baked and served with grated cheese or a sauce. [Italian, pl. offering with a creamy walnut oil and gorgonzola sauce. Beginnings can be a passable Caesar salad ($11.95 for two), a decent white clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière ($5.95) or respectable minestrone with chicken pieces ($4.95). But because Fabrizio presents diners with a focaccia and regular bread plate along with a trio of dipping sauces (tomato, pesto, garlic-olive oil), it's sometimes a tad overtaxing to order any starter of quantity. But take note: There's a refreshing, premises-produced ricotta ri·cot·ta n. 1. A soft Italian cheese that resembles cottage cheese. 2. A similar soft cheese made in the United States. cheesecake ($6) as an ending. And take small bites, because the inviting, candle-lit dining room makes you want to linger on well into the night. FABRIZIO RISTORANTE Food: Two and one half stars. Wine: Two stars. Service: Three stars. Where: 1259 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, for dinner from 5 to 10:30 nightly. Recommended items: Clam chowder, chicken minestrone, bistecca matador (New York steak with cognac sauce), salmon romantico (poached in champagne), scampi Fabrizio (with vodka-mustard sauce), gnocchi in gorgonzola sauce, ricotta cheesecake. How much: Starters from $5 to $12, pastas and entrees from $15 to $34.50, desserts $6 each. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted. Wine list: Soon to be expanded, wine selection is better than some, offering reasonable price range, but fairly high corkage fee. Hopefully the new list will have more Italian bottlings and a sprinkling of the many California-produced, Italian-style wines. Corkage: $14. Reservations:Suggested. Call (805) 496-9033. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Fabrizio Ristorante in Thousand Oaks - which specializes in creamy, flavorful dishes - serves its scampi with a roasted tomato, fennel fennel, common name for several perennial herbs, genus Foeniculum vulgare of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), related to dill. The strawlike foliage and the seeds are licorice-scented and are used (especially in Italian cooking) for flavoring. Parmesan and grilled polenta po·len·ta n. A thick mush made of cornmeal boiled in water or stock. [Italian, from Latin, crushed grain, barley meal.] Noun 1. . Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer |
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