STEAKHOUSE BLOOMS IN PASADENA; FOR RED MEAT, NEW ARROYO FILLS THE BILL.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

They're pretty smart, those Parkway Grill people.

They brought a Spago-type restaurant to Pasadena, and it flew.

They spun it off with a downscale small-chain version called Crocodile Cafe even before Wolfgang Puck got his own cafes up and running.

And now they've turned a building adjacent to Parkway Grill (it had been a flower shop and briefly a Southwestern-style restaurant called Zole) into a clubby steak house a la Arnie Morton's and Ruth's Chris titled the Arroyo Chop House.

They figured there were enough prime red meat eaters with enough discretionary income in the area. And they were right.

Here's a typical big city-ish, wood-paneled, embossed-glass, booth-lined dinner house where the portions are man-size - though not in the extra-large way Arnie Morton's are - and everything's a la carte. And relatively expensive.

Which doesn't seem to deter the crowds one bit.

The only thing you get with your meat order is a broiled half tomato.

But the service is excellent, mostly from ex-staffers of the Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel.

So with every entree ticketed above $20 except the rotisserie chicken ($18), and with sides of various vegetables that include six potato options ranging from $4.25 to $7.50, plus starters and desserts from $5 to $9.50, it doesn't take long to exceed $100 per couple. Especially if you like a martini ($7.50) before your meal or a bottle of wine from the comprehensive and stiff-priced list.

And, by the way, if your taste buds start directing you toward the whole Maine lobster, be prepared to spend about $60 for the minimum 3-pounder.

On a recent visit to the restaurant, I brought my own bottle of wine and paid the $10 corkage fee.

Yet the bill for two drinks, a shared starter, two entrees, two side vegetables, one dessert and a cup of coffee still added up to $117 with a conservative tip.

So much for saving.

Regardless of the price, I have to admit those plates of USDA prime meat are very good.

Whether it's the New York strip ($26) or the Delmonico ($24), the latter being a New York with the bone (which makes it juicier but a slightly smaller piece of meat), the ex-Ruth's Chris chef at Arroyo cooks it perfectly.

The juice, texture and flavor are all there. No complaints.

Ditto for the two double-cut lamb chops ($28) tried one night, charred just enough around the bone to give touches of crispness and a hint of smokiness with each carefully cut (with a sharp steak knife) forkful.

The kitchen makes both meat and seafood easier to enjoy by supplying crucibles of complementing sauces, four of them, into which to dip that forkful.

And you can have all four if you wish. No charge.

I like the caramelized onion and Dijon mustard mixture best. But it's still fun to try a little of the rich portobello mushroom and cabernet reduction, or the creamy sherry and peppercorn. And there's even a traditional bearnaise sauce, smooth and perfectly executed.

Of the sides, the simple baked potato ($4.50) delivered with a platter holding five little pots filled with chopped bacon, cheddar cheese, sour cream, chives and butter, makes the most sense.

And sauteed braised spinach ($4.25) provides a fresh-tasting veggie accompaniment.

I probably would have opted for the sauteed mountain mushrooms but at that moment, $7.50 for a mere side dish seemed overly indulgent.

But then so does the Grand Marnier souffle for $9.50. It's big enough to share, rich and feathery soft with a slightly weak Grand Marnier sauce and sinfully rich creme fraiche.

That's the kind of place Arroyo Chop House is.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Arroyo Chop House.

Where: 536 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena.

When: Open for dinner only from 5:30 to 11 p.m. nightly, to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Behind the scenes: Gregg and Bob Smith are owners. David Tellez is chef.

Recommended items: Sauteed braised spinach, baked potato, double-cut lamb chops, New York strip or Delmonico prime steaks (preferred sauces: caramelized onion Dijon mustard or creamy peppercorn sherry), Grand Marnier or chocolate souffles large enough for two.

How much: Starters and sides from $4 to $9.50, entrees from $18 to $29 (except Maine lobster around $60 for 3-pounder), desserts from $5.50 to $9.50. Full bar. All major credit cards except Discover.

Wine list: Thick multipage list with lots of expensive wines, foreign and domestic. Some rare finds. Corkage: $10.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone]

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Three and One Half Stars for service; Three Stars for wine.

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Photo

Photo: Chef David Tellez, left, and general manager Jered Hobbins court meat lovers at the Arroyo Chop House.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News