STEAK FOR A SONG.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Steak seems to be back in the limelight these days.

With Arnie Morton's coming to Burbank and Ruth's Chris soon alighting in Woodland Hills, local suburbanites are looking forward to having America's big-time steak houses satisfy their beefy lustings.

Meanwhile, almost quietly for the past seven years, one of near-downtown's beefiest landmarks has been successfully filling tables at its suburban outpost in La Canada.

Taylor's Steak House, a clone of the restaurant with basically the same name (the original was actually known as Tex Taylor's Prime Steaks when it opened in 1953 on Eighth Street) continues founder Tex Taylor's policy of excellent steaks at reasonable prices under the aegis of son Bruce Taylor.

With that old-fashioned, deep-red-booth, warm and clubby, comfortable atmosphere, Taylor's draws big crowds consistently.

And no wonder.

An a la carte 10-ounce culotte steak with a choice of potato is $14.95. And its Kansas City flame-broiled sirloin, also known as a New York club steak, is only $1 more.

Of course, if you want to go full boat, the porterhouse T-bone ($24.95) on a sizzling platter is the way to eat a steak here, and it comes up juicy and tender, obviously cooked by a skilled steakmeister in the kitchen.

The porterhouse and five other steak specialties are part of a page of broiler entrees on Taylor's menu that include a soup or salad starter and a fresh vegetable plus potato or rice.

The word ``prime'' pops up here and there in the menu, pointing to the explanation on the menu cover that all steaks here are well-aged, USDA prime or certified Angus corn-fed beef.

When you realize that a prime sirloin pepper steak with soup or salad, potatoes and vegetable is not more than $15 at Taylor's, you can understand why it's packed nightly.

Remember, many of the premium steak eateries charge extra for every item you order above and beyond the steak itself. Consequently, the tab mounts up quickly and there's nothing worse than paying an outrageously high bill for an everyday piece of meat.

On the other hand, here at Taylor's, I've tried the New York, porterhouse and culotte personally and can vouch for their tenderness, juiciness and flavor; all three materializing as thick slabs of gratifying beefy splendor.

I was less impressed with the prime rib, especially the full bone cut ($20.95), handsome on the platter, certainly good tasting, but with so much fat and gristle it ended up less than satisfying.

For those who prefer a fish entree, Taylor's kitchen uses Alaskan halibut for its very enjoyable fish 'n' chips offering ($11.95).

As for starters, beef freaks can begin with a London broil appetizer of thick sliced beef for $8.75 or go for the signature salad here, called the Molly ($3.95), which looks like a meal on a plate when it arrives.

It's actually a large wedge of glistening, crunchy iceberg lettuce paired with tomato and onion and draped in bleu cheese dressing. Very refreshing.

For the finale, peach cobbler a la mode ($6.75) is heartily recommended if it's available. Big enough for two, it ends a Taylor's meal with a flourish of warm, fruity goodness.

TAYLOR'S STEAK HOUSE

Food: Three and one half stars. Wine: Two and one half stars. Service: Three stars.

Where: 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada. (Also at 3361 W. Eighth St., Los Angeles.)

Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 4 p.m. nightly.

Recommended items: Molly salad, fish and chips, London broil appetizer, culotte steak, New York steak, porterhouse, cobbler.

How much: Starters from $3.50 to $11, entrees from $8.50 to $25, dessert $6.75. Full bar. AE, MC, V.

Wine list: Enough moderately priced, decent reds to match the dominant red meat plates. Corkage: $7.50.

Reservations: Needed. Call [phone].

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Photo:

Anita Prata, general manager of Taylor's Steak House, gets an assist from head chef Cruz Martinez holding up a platter of the different cuts of meat available on the menu.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer