STEAK, LOBSTER AND JAZZ COMBO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The name Chadney's has been on restaurants around Los Angeles since the '60s after piano-bar personality Bill Chadney left his nightly perch at the Sportsmen's Lodge and opened his own place in Sherman Oaks in 1962.

At one time there were three Chadney's, with Burbank and Santa Monica locations joining the original.

The Santa Monica location is now the Marquis West, and the Burbank Chadney's, which closed three weeks ago and relocated to Cahuenga Boulevard West near Universal City, is the surviving restaurant bearing the Chadney name.

Ironically, the landmark Burbank Chadney's, across from NBC, had dallied with the idea of becoming Chadney's/Scandia recently. It had even briefly affixed the original Scandia letters from the facade of the famous Sunset Strip restaurant building to an exterior wall.

But that idea capsized. And when late November rains resulted in serious water damage to the onetime Carriage House restaurant building at 3000 W. Olive Ave., Chadney's moved out.

The restaurant, known as much for its top-quality jazz as its American and continental food, has pretty much adhered to the same menu over the years.

Consequently, the food could easily be termed retro or old-fashioned.

Yet, many would agree that a good steak and lobster platter will never go out of style.

And that's probably what Chadney's kitchen does best.

The facts

Name: Chadney's Universal.

Address: 3575 Cahuenga Blvd. West, near Universal City.

Phone: [phone].

When we last reviewed: July 31, 1988.

How long in business: The Burbank Chadney's opened on Nov. 22, 1973.

Menu/cuisine changes: Hardly any. Canned asparagus spears were dumped around nine years ago. Angel hair was once on the menu. And a good sourdough individual loaf used to be served instead of today's rather listless rolls.

Decor/physical changes: The new restaurant is an attractive, full-windowed facility with a second floor. It had previously been occupied by L'Express, Montana's, Mallory's and Buky's.

Personnel changes: Bob Hoeller and Bill Chadney were the original owners. Hoeller eventually bought out Chadney. His son, Steve Hoeller, ran the restaurant for several years. Dee Borian owned it for around five years. Present owners are Robair Altounian and Eddie Whalen with Whalen as the operational managing partner. Chef Mariano Robles has been in the Chadney's kitchen since 1978. Dennis Duke continues to book the jazz talent.

Recommendable dishes: Filet mignon steak and Maine lobster ($29.95), New York steak ($21.95), breast of chicken Henry IV ($12.95).

Service quality: Varies. One night a greeter-host refused to give us a window table (there were three unoccupied). A few minutes after we were seated, a waiter greeted a couple and showed them a table near ours; it was refused. The man said he'd like a window table. The waiter indicated no problem and gave them one of the empty tables. Another night, a different person at the door gave us a window table without any fuss whatsoever. Service past the table selection rates from passable to attentive and knowledgeable.

Pricing: Entrees, which include a fairly good untossed salad on a much-too-small plate or a creamy clam chowder, range from $12 to $30 and arrive with a choice of a potato, rice or pasta accompaniment and a vegetable. Appetizers priced from $4.50 to $10 feature such perennial faves as oysters Rockefeller, mozzarella marinara and escargots.

Wine list/service: The wine list could use some improvement in both breadth and depth, but the pricing seems fair and one can find a good-quality varietal (like a '96 Brander sauvignon blanc, $17). The bar still had limited brand inventory (no Bombay gin, for example).

Worth mentioning: Valet parking inside the building at night costs a mere $2.

Look for such great jazz artists as Bud Shank, Bill Berry, Jack Sheldon, Ross Tompkins and Karen Hernandez.

Niostalgia-food buffs will enjoy seeing names like ``meuniere,'' ``almondine,'' ``papillote,'' ``Oscar,'' ``grenadine,'' ``bearnaise,'' ``tournedos,'' ``sand dabs'' and ``Sinatra'' on the menu.

Miscellaneous comments: Chadney's, synonymous with cool jazz and stiff drinks, could do well in its new surroundings once the staff becomes comfortable and friendliness at the door is achieved.

Our latest ratings: two and one half stars for food, two stars for wine, two and one half stars for service.

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Photo

PHOTO Managing partner Eddie Whalen and bartender Felipe Portillo show off a New York strip, halibut steak and Chicken Sinatra at Chadney's, in Universal City.

David Sprague/Daily News