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ST. LOUIS PIZZA MADE JJ'S WAY.


Byline: - Larry Lipson

With the slogan ``We don't overdough it,'' JJ's Pizzeria in Sherman Oaks bakes up St. Louis-style, thin-crust pizzas in a tiny, 24-seat Ventura Boulevard Ventura Boulevard is one of the primary east-west thouroughfares in the San Fernando Valley; as it was originally a part of the El Camino Real (the trail between Spanish missions), Ventura Boulevard is the oldest route in the San Fernando Valley. It was also U.S.  storefront where baseball's Stan Musial Noun 1. Stan Musial - United States baseball player (born in 1920)
Musial, Stan the Man, Stanley Frank Musial
 and the Gashouse Gang Gashouse Gang

boisterous Cardinals ballclub of the 1930s. [Am. Sports: Shankle, 167]

See : Highspiritedness
 look down from the wall in approval.

JJ's does it simply, producing 12-inch cheese pizzas for $7.95 and 14-inch ones for $9.95. On the smaller pie, you can add one or more of a dozen toppings at 75 cents each. On the larger pizza, they'll cost you $1.

Everything from pepperoni to pineapple is available, our nod going to mushrooms, tomatoes and fresh garlic one evening, a delightfully satisfying combination.

JJ's also keeps in the St. Louis mode with its toasted ravioli Toasted ravioli (also called fried ravioli) is an appetizer popularized in St. Louis, Missouri. Toasted ravioli can be found on the menus of many St. Louis restaurants including those of the The Hill, a predominantly Italian neighborhood.  (six for $3.95, 10 for $5.95), small cheese-stuffed squares dipped in seasoned breading and served crispy with tomato dipping sauce.

I've eaten versions of these that were dried out and/or greasy. Not here though.

Each JJ's ravioli has a moist cheese stuffing and doesn't leave a residue of oil on your fingers, should you pick one up by hand.

They're served steaming hot and are definitely better that way. The seasoned breading gives them an attractive look and taste.

But I really have no idea if they travel well as a takeout item.

JJ's also pairs tender strips of chicken breast and a cut french roll with provolone pro·vo·lo·ne  
n.
A hard, usually smoked Italian cheese.



[Italian, augmentative of provola, a kind of cheese.]
 cheese ($5.50), or gives the sandwich an extra flavor burst by using its garlic bread ($6.25).

JJ's Pizzeria also makes a meatball sandwich, small and large Italian salads, a calzone cal·zo·ne  
n.
A baked or fried Italian turnover of pizza dough filled with vegetables, meat, or cheese.



[Italian, pant leg, calzone, from calza, sock, from Vulgar Latin *calcea
, serves cheesecake and biscotti Biscotti (plural of Italian biscotto, roughly meaning "twice baked") are crisp Italian cookies often containing nuts or flavored with anise. Traditionally, biscotti are made by baking cookie dough in two long slabs, cutting these into slices, and reheating them to dry , and pours espressos and cappuccinos.

You'll never get the St. Louis blues here.

Unless, of course, you came from that city, and become homesick from eating JJ's food.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: JJ's Pizzeria.

Where: 15053 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: (818) 986-4557.

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, from noon to 10 p.m. Saturday, for dinner only from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Pizza with your choice of toppings, toasted ravioli, chicken Parmesan sandwich on garlic bread.

How much: Pizzas and calzones from $8 to $10 plus toppings (75 cents or $1 each), all other savory items from $2 to $6.50, dessert (includes biscotti) $1 to $3. No alcohol. MC, V.

Our rating: Three Stars for food.
COPYRIGHT 1998 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1998, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Article Type:Restaurant Review
Date:May 29, 1998
Words:400
Previous Article:KIDS/SNEAK PEEK : GOING APE OVER MUSEUM'S LECTURE ON GIBBONS.(L.A. LIFE)
Next Article:THE JJ IN PASADENA OFFERS A STEAK, A SMOKE AND A SONG.(L.A. LIFE)
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