SPRINGS ETERNAL ON HOT CREEK VISIT.

Byline: Roger W. Vargo Daily News Staff Writer

The forces of nature are close at hand and underfoot in the northern Owens Valley, and one of its most aesthetic and soothing by-products - hot springs - beckon visitors willing to explore a back road or two.

Above the arid ground, a few clouds dance to a tune known only to the wind. To the west, the seemingly impenetrable wall of the Sierra Nevada crumbles one grain at a time. And thousands of feet deep, currents of magma (molten rock) flow and churn under the volcanic tableland.

Water that comes in contact with hot rocks near the magma boils and forces its way to the surface. If conditions are just right, a geyser of steam and hot water erupts. Under less favorable conditions, the velocity and pressure of the flow decreases and a hot spring is born.

The region's ancient Long Valley has numerous hot springs. Most are small, secluded pools. Hot Creek is different.

At Hot Creek Geothermal Area, it's a complex of springs and pools sitting in the middle of a cold water creek. You'll have to experiment to find a zone with the right temperature for you. And stay away from the steaming vents on either side of the stream bed. They are fenced off for a reason; the water flowing out is scalding hot.

Interpretive signs along the canyon rim explain the geologic processes that formed the area.

A generation ago, Hot Creek was a swinging party spot, especially at night. Now the area is managed by the Inyo National Forest and open only during daylight hours to provide a more wholesome family experience.

Unlike many hot springs, clothing isn't optional - it's required. There are restrooms and a parking lot at the top of a paved trail down to the creek.

After a soak in Hot Creek, you can also try your luck angling. Other sections of the creek are regarded as world-class fly-fishing spots.

The easiest access to the hot springs is via Highway 395 east of Mammoth Lakes. But for the more adventurous, open country abounds nearby if you have a high-clearance or a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

More than a century ago, horse-drawn stages and freight wagons traveled between Bishop and the mining towns of Bodie and Aurora. Portions of that route still survive. From Highway 6, north of Bishop, take Five Bridges Road to Fish Slough Road, designated as 3V01 on U.S. Forest Service maps and drive on the graded dirt northward.

En route, several ancient rock art sites are mute testimony to past travelers. An inquiry to the Bureau of Land Management office in Bishop, [phone], will yield locations of three of these sites - Fish Slough, Chidago Canyon and Red Canyon - and the back route to Hot Creek Geothermal Area.

Notice the pink rock formations? This is the Bishop Tuff - volcanic ash that was expelled during the volcanic eruption of Long Valley some 760,000 years ago.

The route meanders past a green oasis to the east - a wetland within the 36,000-acre Fish Slough Area of Critical Environmental Concern, where the Owens pupfish, considered extinct in 1948, has been rediscovered. It eventually connects with Benton Crossing Road, which leads into the Hot Creek geologic site.

The back road trip from Bishop to Hot Creek takes approximately five hours, including assorted, lengthy stops; consult a map for accurate routing. Check with the BLM or USFS in Bishop or Mammoth Lakes for current road conditions.

It's a worthwhile journey to a dry land that offers many glimpses into a volatile past.

If You're Going

In spite of its remote surroundings, the hot springs at Hot Creek Geothermal Areaare located at Highway 395 and Mammoth Lakes, about an hour's drive north of Bishop.

Leave Highway 395 north of Crowley Lake at the ``Hot Creek-Airport''exit. Turn right and follow the signs past Hot Creek Fish Hatchery (a good stop in itself). It's about a four mile drive.

The last two miles of raod is graded dirt, suitable for all but the lowest slungpassenger cars.

The area can be dangerous, so take heed. A sign at the parking lot warns that 14 people have lost their lives or have been seriously injuredsince 1968, apparently due to drownings, scaldings and other accidents. There are no lifeguards.

Wear some type of foot covering, as there are sharp rocks and occasional shards of broken glass. Be sure to bring drinking water and sunscreen.

The Hot Creek geologic site is open for access only during daylight hours; the road is open for travel at all hours.

Several developed campgrounds are located near Crowley Lake and Mammoth Lakes area, but overnight camping is generally permitted throughout the volcanic tableland.

Carry a good map, especially you off-road enthusiasts. The Auto Club's ``Guide to the Eastern Sierra,'' DeLorme's ``Northern California Atlas and Gazetteer,'' the U.S. Forest Service's ``Inyo National Forest'' and Fine Edge Production's ``Eastern High Sierra Recreation Topo Map'' are good choices.

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Photo, Box

PHOTO (color) The snow-covered eastern Sierra Nevada m ountains rise beyond Hot Creek Geothermal Area, where hot springs meld with a cold-water creek.

Roger W. Vargo / Daily News

Box: If You're Going (see text)