SPRING '97 : FROM RUNWAY TO REAL WAY.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor

Fishtail hems, see-through dresses and clothes that cling like baby oil to every curve. They're killer spring looks on those scrawny runway models, but what are the rest of us going to wear?

Hey, you high-fashion designers! In case the fax machine garbled the message, the average American woman is not runway material!

According to national stats, she's sorta short and a tad overweight; stands 5-foot-4 and wears a size 14. And, hopefully, she'll give us all a break by not going to the supermarket in a sheer designer dress that reveals panties and saddlebags.

OK, so a few got the message. In a recent chat at a society luncheon in Beverly Hills, Oscar de la Renta talked about the average American woman's dilemma.

``More so than ever before, I think fashion magazines have forgotten the consumer,'' de la Renta said. ``Those transparent tops and skirts are being promoted in magazines, but I've yet to see women wearing them.

``What I suggest,'' de la Renta continued, ``is an ensemble with the illusion of transparency created by a nude underlining. You can also get the effect with a touch of bareness and a lighter-weight fabric.''

So forget the ``Emperor's New Clothes'' philosophy and hold your ground, sisters. Support is coming with this month's debut of Mode, a new fashion magazine dedicated to women sizes 12, 14 and 16; contests such as Lane Bryant's Search for Real Women to honor fashionable size 14 women; and a few savvy designers who have either added larger sizes or cut them more respectfully.

Ralph Lauren summed it up: ``I think a lot of women want normal clothes.'' While he doesn't have a special size 12-to-16 category, his clothes are classics, designed to flatter a wide spectrum of figures and sizes.

Ditto with de la Renta, whose new Oscar collection offers elegant sportswear detailing with ample room for hips and thighs. Also add Ellen Tracy, Donna Karan, Dana Buchman, Liz Claiborne, Jones New York, Max Azria and David Dart to the figure-friendly list of designers and manufacturers.

But America's size-14 woman doesn't have to play the name game. Sometimes it's just a matter of studying the market and choosing what's best for you, say fashion experts.

Mr. Blackwell, known for his worst-dressed hit list, is a former designer who understands the average-size woman. Ask him and he'll tell you, ``Monochromatic statements make you look taller and thinner ... and separates are great for shorter, heavier women, especially when worn with a moderate heel to give them height.''

More tips: ``Don't wear too many accessories, especially a big scarf around your shoulders (Remember Oprah in her fat days?) or an oversize shoulder bag which looks like a horse's feed bag on a 5-foot-4 woman,'' Blackwell quipped.

Choosing fashions that skim the body is also helpful, according to JC Penney spokesman Don Scaccia. Looks that work for most women he said, are twin-sets that glide across curves, softly sculpted zip-front jackets (they create a V-line) and African safari looks.

For more help, we turned to Jane Mannfolk, a Los Angeles makeover specialist for TV's ``Leeza.'' Mannfolk, a former runway model, has made a career out of dressing the average woman, and she readily admits it's hard work.

On a recent trip with her to the Fashion Square mall in Sherman Oaks, Mannfolk picked her way through the designer department scrutinizing garments for wearability, all the while talking about what works and what doesn't.

``Pantsuits are very hot this year,'' she said, ``but a short size 14 or even a size 10 woman will have trouble because the silhouette is so lean. You've got to try on lots of pants - maybe dozens - to find the perfect fit, as most will be too snug around the hips or saddlebag area. The trick is to find pants that fall gracefully from the waistline and taper gently at the calf, so that rules out most of the snug hip-hugger styles on the market. And choose soft, drapey fabrics, such as rayon or wool gabardine, avoiding heavy cotton duck, which is commonly used in summer pants. Then look in the back to make sure the pants are smooth ... and always wear support pantyhose to keep you looking firm. That's an old model's trick,'' said Mannfolk. She also said that women with pear shapes (large hips, small shoulders) can create the illusion of equal proportion by wearing a crisp white open-collared shirt tucked into black pants. ``Shoulder pads also create broader shoulders and make your hips look smaller, but we're not talking about linebacker shoulder pads like we wore in the '80s,'' she warned.

About that safari look. Said Mannfolk, ``It's great in the movies and the runway, but hard for the size-14 figure to pull off. Pass on the epaulets, look for cargo pockets that are flat instead of bulky, and focus on the fabric. You can get the same fashion message with a simple shirtwaist dress in khaki cotton that will last several seasons, since it doesn't have the decorative details.

Mannfolk also acknowledges that camp shirts are back in style, but she hates the sleeve length that usually hits the top of the elbow on shorter women. ``The shirt is boxy, and the sleeve is baggy, and you'll look heavier and shorter than you already are,'' she advised.

Other no-no's are the season's bare midriffs. ``If you're dying to wear the look then wear a T-shirt with a sheer panel insert to hide love handles, and pair it with a voluminous skirt or fluid pants on the bottom. For this style, she stresses the importance of seamless bras and nude camisoles.

Knits, she likes. Not the Spandex type designed for tall skinny teens, but cotton knits that skim the body without revealing bulges. ``Look for heavier, thicker knits and choose a long, slim skirt with a looser top,'' she advised.

Sure, she loves those new one-shouldered evening gowns but said the average American woman should pass. According to this critic, ``Not only is it a one-season look, but it won't give a large-busted woman any support. And then there's that little problem of upper-arm flab.''

Instead of letting the Kate Moss types of the world have all the fashion fun, fight back. Buy that sleeveless sheath, but just keep your matching coat on, the one de la Renta so thoughtfully provided in his collection. Or David Dart's little coordinating cardigan.

Then pray for the coldest spring on record.

CAPTION(S):

8 Photos

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) So what are the rest of us going to wear?

AP/Photo Illustration

(2--Color) Laurel

(3--Color) BCBG 

(4--Color) Donna Ricco

(5--Color) Escada

(6--Color) Oscar de la Renta

(7--Color) Liz Claiborne

(8--Color) BCBG