SPICY OR MILD, PUNJAB WILL CURRY YOUR FAVOR.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THE INTENSE, creamy curries of India's Punjab region, sometimes bright red, can now be enjoyed in a new Northridge restaurant, Punjab Palace.

It's set in the back of an oft-changing shopping center, once again going through a remodeling phase. There currently are bare wood facades on all the business units whether occupied or not. The Palace has been using its patio doorway temporarily as its main entry.

Already popular in the neighborhood for its $6.99 lunch buffet, the new place doesn't exactly live up to its name under present conditions but does appear to have palatial possibilities.

Meanwhile, if you want to try its Punjabi goat curry, as I did but failed in two attempts, visit here on a Saturday night. I finally found out that it's a Saturday-only occurrence after initially being told, ``We don't have it.''

But you won't be disappointed in the fish or lamb curries here, especially the fish.

The Punjab Palace kitchen uses catfish for its chef's specialty dish of fish masala ($11.50) and, as in many of the Punjabi-style curries, simmers the firm-fleshed catfish fillets in a rich, tomato-based curry sauce.

The result is a definite thumbs-up, and if you want it spicy, you'll get it that way.

You can, of course, temper a fiery curry with a side dish of raita ($1.95), the creamy yogurt soother, and also sip the cold Indian yogurt drink lassi ($1.95) in the sweet Punjabi style or with a dash of salt, which is my preference. A mango-flavored lassi ($2.50) is also available.

At dinner time, excellent papadums (thin, seasoned, tandoori-baked crisps) with two chutneys (tamarind and mint) are presented to diners while they peruse the menu.

Of the lamb offerings here, the two best are the shahi korma ($8.99) curry preparation made with yogurt, nuts, herbs and spices, and the Punjabi version of vindaloo ($7.99), a really hot, tomato-based curry with potatoes and onions.

An appropriate accompaniment to this spicy treat is the aloo paratha ($2.95), a pizzalike, tandoor oven-baked, wheat bread stuffed with mashed potatoes.

Most of the entrees arrive automatically with a generously portioned side plate of basmati rice flecked with cumin seeds.

Of the several main chicken items, chicken tikka masala ($8.99) could be the most recommendable. Roasted chicken from the tandoor oven is cut into small pieces and finished in a yogurt sauce. Ask for it mild and you'll receive a gently spiced chicken dish, almost delicate on the palate.

But a regular chicken curry ($6.99) offering one day was almost too salty to eat.

Don't expect any soups as starters at Punjab Palace; there aren't any. But the kitchen turns out respectable samosas and pakoras, mostly stuffed with various vegetable combinations ($2.95 to $6.50).

Incidentally, vegetarians will discover at least a dozen entrees that should fit their needs - with the majority of them under $7.

For endings, there's a handful of the usual Indian desserts ($2.95 each), one being kheer. This is the traditionally served cold rice pudding mixture sprinkled with nuts - not too sweet, thank goodness, yet one more way to soothe the throat after diving into one or more of Punjabi Palace's hottest (by request) curries.

PUNJAB PALACE

Food: Three stars. Service: Two and one half stars.

Where: 19524 Nordhoff St., Northridge.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly.

Recommended items: Pakoras, samosas, fish masala, chicken tikka masala, lamb shahi korma, lamb vindaloo, raita, salt lassi, kheer.

How much: Starters from $3 to $13, entrees from $6 to $13, desserts $3 each. No alcohol. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

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Photo:

Punjab Palace owners Rinku, left, and Babu Bhatia show off some of the Indian specialties at their new Northridge restaurant, which also offers a $6.99 lunch buffet.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer