SPENDING TIME IN PURGATORY - ON SKIS : ON LOCATION.

Byline: Julie Cooper San Antonio Express-News 

I survived Purgatory.

No, not down there - up in Colorado's San Juan National Forest.

The mountain was a challenge to my limited ski skills; 35 percent of those who ski here are rated high intermediate. More than half of Purgatory's mountain is for intermediates, 23 percent is for beginners and 26 percent is rated difficult.

The typical skiers who come here, according to marketing director Allan Whitescarver, are mom, dad and two kids (teens) who come for a week every year.

Another plus was just how nice the facilities were on the mountain and the other things to do in the area.

Durango's high season is summer, when the $25 motel rooms in town go for double or triple that rate.

Maybe that's why Purgatory's motto is ``Colorado's Biggest Surprise in Skiing.''

A few of the surprises included: Children under 12 ski free in ski school.

The Total Ticket concept lets you trade in a day of skiing if you purchase a four-day or more lift ticket. You can trade in for a snowmobile excursion, train ride, dinner sleigh ride, cross-country skiing, a visit to the Sky Ute Casino, horseback ride, hot springs visit or a tour of Mesa Verde National Park.

``First Things First'' half-day lesson is an introduction to skiing or snowboarding for anyone age 13 and older.

``First Things First'' lessons are $17 and available every day throughout the ski season.

I wasn't surprised by the quality of the child-care facilities - Colorado resorts have led the way, making this truly a family sport. Purgatory's child care begins at 2 months and goes up to 12 years. We watched the 2- and 3-year-olds sled down the hill, while inside other caregivers were preparing vegetarian lasagna for lunch.

Marlena DeCarion, the Bears Den supervisor, showed us around where toddlers were getting special attention. In addition to the paid workers, there are local volunteers who staff the facility and get paid with ski passes. That's handy, DeCarion said, when they need to call in extra help. The ratio of child to caregiver ranges from 1.5-to-1 for infants to 2.5-to-1 for toddlers, up to 4-to-1 for the 3-year-olds.

``The key to quality care,'' DeCarion says, ``is to keep a good ratio.''

Although they will take walk-ins, reservations are recommended. Full-day prices range from $45 for infants to 3 years in the Cub Care (nonskiing), to $52 for ski programs for children 3 to 12 years old. Lunch is included, but ski equipment is not.

There are 38 miles of trails across 2,500 acres on the mountain. Purgatory is served by nine lifts, the newest lift, the Hermosa Park Express, being a high-speed quad.

When we weren't skiing, there were plenty of other ways to occupy our time in Durango.

We especially enjoyed a horse-drawn sleigh ride to dinner in a rustic log house, courtesy of Buck's Livery. The big Belgian horses pulled sleighs carrying 10 to 12 people through beech-tree forests. Then we sat down to rib-eye steaks and grilled chicken.

The next night, we were glad to ease our aching muscles into the warm waters at Trimble Hot Springs. The springs, located six miles north of Durango, are open year round and offer soaking in the swimming pools, yoga, massages and water aerobics. Admission is $7 for adults, $5 for children under 12. Bring your own towels, or rent some there.

We didn't get to ride the famous Durango & Silverton Train, but we did stroll the historic district in Durango and saw the train depart on its morning run. It runs year-round now - but only as far as Cascade Cavern in the winter months. The train begins its run to Silverton in late April.

Purgatory Ski Resort is open through April 6. Lift tickets are $29 adults for half-day, $39 full day; children 6-12, $12 half-day and $17 full day; seniors 70 and over and children 5 and over ski free.

For information and reservations, call [phone] or [phone].

Purgatory on-line is http://www.ski-purg.com.

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