SPEARS WITHOUT PEER DRESS UP THOSE SATELY STALKS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Those beautiful green, regal spears of asparagus exude the flavor of spring. A member of the lily family (along with onions, leeks and garlic), the name comes from the Greek word (asparagos) for sprout or shoot.

This aristocrat of vegetables, cultivated for more than 2,000 years, was a sought-after delicacy in ancient Rome and dubbed the ``food of kings'' by France's King Louis XIV. Luckily you don't have to be royalty to enjoy it now.

While asparagus is available in a trio of colors - green, purple and white - it's the green that is grown in the largest quantities commercially in this country.

California produces about 80 percent of the nation's fresh domestic crop (accounting for 55 percent of the nation's entire asparagus production) in the areas from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta region to the Southern California desert. Some of the crop is exported to Europe, Canada, Japan and Mexico.

Washington, Michigan, New Jersey and Pennsylvania also produce commercial asparagus crops, but much of it is processed into frozen or canned products.

With competition from Mexican and Peruvian imports and the high labor costs here, California has been adjusting to its new position in the global marketplace. ``Acreage farmed has declined from about 35,000 acres three years ago to about 25,000 acres today,'' notes Marc Marchini, chairman of of the Stockton-based California Asparagus Commission, representing 200 growers and packers in the state.

Forty years ago, when the asparagus industry was at its peak, there were 50,000 acres of asparagus in California, he adds.

Asparagus is the growing shoot of a perennial plant raised in furrowed fields. Plants take about two to three years before they produce - and they continue to produce for a decade or more. When the spears emerge from the ground, they turn green - and within two days they reach 9 inches in length, says Marchini, adding that they are then cut, sorted and packed by hand.

Although asparagus is available almost year-round due to imports, the domestic crop is usually found from late February through July, depending on the weather. Even though California production is winding down now, you'll still find plenty of fresh asparagus in markets (from Washington, California, Mexico and Peru).

Steam, boil, microwave, broil, barbecue, pan grill or roast asparagus, but do so quickly to avoid overcooking. When you grill or roast the spears, don't be surprised when they shrink or shrivel up and end up with a bit of caramelization on the outside, resulting in heightened and delicious flavor.

Asparagus is a universal crop. Use it in Asian stir-fries (with chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, other vegetables, etc.), in spring rolls, filo dough, omelets, frittatas, risotto, soups, salads and fried rice, on pizza. You can even make a different style guacamole, to serve with chips. A Chinese restaurant in Stockton serves tempura battered, deep-fried asparagus spears, a hit with diners, says Marchini. In China (a large producer of white asparagus), spears are enjoyed candied.

If spears are served crisp-tender, no embellishment is needed. However, you can dress them up with a myriad of sauces - from lemon and butter to Hollandaise, Bearnaise, red pepper, tapenades, Asian sesame oil/soy sauce/rice vinegar dressings, Italian or French dressings and more. A little oil and vinegar, salt and pepper or just a few drops of balsamic vinegar bring out the best flavor.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

Here are six flavorful ways to add a little green to your meals

1 Bring out the flavor and texture of asparagus in Asian-style stir fries. This idea also works with scallops or even turkey or tofu pieces. Serve over hot cooked rice.

ASPARAGUS CHICKEN STIR FRY: Heat 3 tablespoons oil over high heat in a wok or 10-inch skillet. Add 1 1/2 pounds asparagus, diagonally sliced into 1-inch pieces, 1 cup chopped green onions and 1 medium red bell pepper, cut into thin 2-inch-long strips. Stir fry until crisp-tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside. In same pan, heat 2 tablespoons oil over high heat until hot. Add 1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut into 1-inch cubes along with 1 tablespoon EACH soy sauce, dry sherry and cornstarch mixed with 2 teaspoons powdered chicken flavor bouillon base and 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Stir-fry, scraping bottom of pan often, until chicken turns white, about 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in 1 (8-ounce) can sliced water chestnuts, drained, 3/4 cup water and salt and pepper to taste. Continue cooking over medium-high heat, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes, until sauce boils and thickens. Return vegetables to pan and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes longer, until hot. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

2 Buy a Boboli or other cooked pizza shell and load up with assorted vegetables and cheese. Add a Greek touch with crumbled feta and kalamata olives. Delicious!

EASY VEGETABLE PIZZA: Cover 1 cooked (10- or 12-inch) pizza shell evenly with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped garlic. Layer with 2/3 cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper, 1/2 cup chopped onion and 1/2 cup chopped pitted kalamata olives. Arrange 1 pound asparagus spears (blanched in microwave oven for 2 to 3 minutes), tips toward edge, like the spokes of a wheel, over top of other vegetables. Evenly sprinkle with 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese and 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheeses. Bake in preheated 450-degree oven until crust and cheese are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Cut into 8 wedges. Makes 4 servings.

3 This may sound weird, but it's an interesting and different way to use the vegetable.

ASPARAGUS GUACAMOLE: Cook 4 cups (about 1 pound) cut, trimmed asparagus OR 4 cups frozen (about 20 ounces), cut asparagus in small amount of water until tender. (Use microwave oven, if desired.) Drain well and cool. In a food processor, process asparagus, 1 small clove garlic, minced, 2 teaspoons lime juice, 1/4 cup chopped, canned green chiles (or more to taste), 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin until mixture is smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping bowl frequently. Remove from food processor and stir in 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion and 1/2 cup chopped, seeded tomato. Chill thoroughly before serving with tortilla chips and cut up vegetables. You can also use this as a sauce to top grilled chicken, seafood or steaks. Makes about 4 servings.

4 Asparagus is great in salads or wrapped up in mixtures in lettuce leaves. This goes together in a hurry. Blanch the asparagus quickly in the microwave oven, then plunge in ice water to cool.

QUICK LETTUCE WRAPS: Combine 2 large tomatoes, chopped, 1 hothouse cucumber, chopped, 1 cup blanched cutup asparagus pieces, chilled, 1/4 cup chopped prosciutto or ham, 2 tablespoons drained capers, 1 green onion, chopped, 1 cup buffalo mozzarella cheese cubes, 3 tablespoons olive oil and 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Mix well. Season to taste with seasoned salt and garlic pepper. To serve, place some of the mixture on a butter lettuce leaf (you'll need about 6 to 8 leaves total), wrap up and eat out of hand. Or place mixture on dressed assorted baby greens. Make 6 to 8 wraps or about 4 salads.

5 Once you've tried roasted asparagus, you'll be hooked. And it's a breeze to fix, as the oven does the work - and in just minutes. Flavor it with olive oil (and a splash of balsamic vinegar before serving) or give an Asian twist with sesame oil and rice wine vinegar.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS, PLAIN OR SESAME FLAVORED: Place 1 to 1 1/2 pounds asparagus (medium-thick) spears on a foil-lined jelly-roll pan in a single layer. Brush with 1 teaspoon olive OR sesame oil; sprinkle with 1 teaspoon minced garlic (optional). Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast, uncovered, in a preheated 400- to 450-degree oven, shaking asparagus pan once or twice to turn spears, about 10 to 12 minutes, until fork-tender. Watch carefully; do not overcook (you don't want them charred). Transfer asparagus to a warmed platter, drizzle with 1 tablespoon balsamic or rice wine vinegar. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: You can also coat the spears with a favorite marinade or dressing before roasting, if desired, but be sure to use a 400-degree oven.

6 Have a fiesta by adding a new twist to fajitas. This version uses asparagus pieces and corn in combination with beef, onions and sweet bell peppers. Substitute chicken for the beef, if desired. To make the meal extra festive, use flavored tortillas like sun-dried tomato or garden spinach and vegetable.

BEEF-ASPARAGUS FAJITAS: Cut 1 pound sirloin steak into thin strips. Place in heavy plastic bag or glass bowl. Add 3/4 cup prepared Italian salad dressing; seal bag tightly or cover bowl with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours or overnight, turning bag occasionally.

Just before serving, drain beef, discarding marinade. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until hot. Add beef and stir-fry 4 to 6 minutes, until medium. Remove to plate and set aside. In same skillet, heat another tablespoon oil over high heat until hot. Stir in 1 cup cutup fresh asparagus pieces, 1 cup frozen, thawed corn, 1/2 cup diced onions and 1 cup sliced green, red OR yellow sweet peppers; stir- fry about 3 to 4 minutes or until vegetables are crisp-tender. Add 1/2 teaspoon garlic pepper, 2 tablespoons lemon juice and salt to taste. Return beef to skillet with vegetables and heat through. Place hot asparagus mixture in center of 6 (7- or 8-inch) warmed tortillas. Roll up. Serve immediately with sour cream, salsa and guacamole alongside. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

ASPARAGUS TIPS

-- When buying asparagus, look for bright green spears with tightly closed, compact tips. Make sure the bottoms of the spears are not dried out. Color - not size - is the key to tenderness. The greener the asparagus, the more tender it is. Buy at least 1/2 pound per person because you'll lose about half the total weight once trimmed and cooked.

-- While there's some debate about thick or thin spears (suit your personal preference), Marc Marchini of the California Asparagas Commission definitely favors larger spears. They are just as tender as smaller spears, more versatile, hold up better in cooking and have a longer shelf life, he says.

And contrary to popular opinion, larger spears come from younger plants while thin spears come from older plants.

--To store asparagus at home, cut off about 1/2 inch at the bottom of the spears, wrap the ends in wet paper towels and cover with plastic wrap or stand them up with the stem ends in a little water (do not submerge). If the asparagus is at its prime when purchased, it will usually keep three to six days (depending on thickness) in the fridge. Keep in mind that asparagus loses sweetness and gets bitter when old, so it's best to eat it as quickly as possible.

--To prepare for cooking, rinse the asparagus with running tap water and shake to remove any excess. Although there has been some debate over the years, it's not necessary to peel the spears. ``It is totally ridiculous (to peel asparagus) - you are throwing away the most valuable part - with all the nutrients,'' says Marchini.

While some like to snap off the tough ends of the spears, others think you lose too much and opt to use a knife. Be sure to remove any tough white parts.

--Figure that a cup of cooked asparagus has about 45 calories, 8 grams carbohydrate, 0.6 grams fat, 288 milligrams potassium, 20 milligrams sodium, 5 grams protein and no cholesterol. The vegetable is a good source of folic acid, vitamin C, B vitamins and iron.

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Asparagus spear-it

Great dishes are a snap to make

(2 -- color) Asparagus is delicious in all kinds of stir fries - scallops, chicken and beef.

(3 -- color) EASY VEGETABLE PIZZA

(4 -- color) no caption (asparagus)

Box:

(1) Here are six flavorful ways to add a little green to your meals (see text)

(2) ASPARAGUS TIPS (see text)