SOUTHERN COMFORT AT LARKIN'S IN EAGLE ROCK.

Byline: ERIC NOLAND

>LA.COM 

Sensible cuisine proliferates in Los Angeles, where bistros tout their organic ingredients, health-conscious cooking techniques and feather-light sauces. But sometimes the palate yearns for a bit more oomph, and in Eagle Rock, a roadhouse joint called Larkin's obliges unapologetically with its servings of Southern comfort.

Catfish ($15) wore a golden sheath of cornmeal, and was clearly cooked in oil hot enough to brown the exterior while keeping the flaky inside moist and flavorful. Same for the fried chicken ($15). No wimpy boneless breast here; you get leg and thigh pieces, lightly breaded, browned in a cast-iron skillet and good to the last juicy bite.

The catfish is served with sauteed collard greens so hotly spiced that the uninitiated might want to tread carefully at first, to avoid blunting taste buds for the rest of the meal. The chicken comes with rich garlic mashed potatoes made with baby reds, and ladled with gravy. "We purposely give you big plates so you can mix everything together," the waitress said as she put the main courses down.

But lest you think all of Larkin's offerings are robust and heavy, the favorite item of the night at our table was a warm salad of fried okra buttons, yellow tomato wedges that tasted just-picked and fresh greens ($9).

The desserts were wonderful, too. The "black & blue cobbler" ($7) featured luscious blueberries and blackberries simmered with cinnamon and served in a pastry crust that was soaked through with their juices. The sweet potato pie ($6) resembled pumpkin pie, but not with the overly sweet, canned filling that is so common at Thanksgiving.

Larkin's is housed in a century-old Craftsman dwelling, and it truly feels as if you're eating in someone's home. The scene is casual, and the service is friendly but not particularly polished -- as if the ladies of the house are bringing the food out when it's darn well ready. And that's just fine.

A card on the table lists house rules, including a prohibition of cell-phone conversations -- hallelujah! -- and an advisory that reads, "Please be respectful of the wait staff and other diners. Rudeness is not tolerated."

Larkin's, according to its Web site, endeavors to merge "old recipes of the South with the Latin flavors of California." That surely accounts for that abundant heat in the collard greens. But the concept works less well with a fiery side of red beans and rice ($5), which doesn't possess the subtlety of the traditional Louisiana dish.

Also disappointing was a starter of Alaskan salmon cakes ($8) -- a bit too salty, too fishy and with a mealy consistency.

At its best: Soul food with style in a homey setting.

Could be better: No-reservations policy can make for some long waits.

Eric Noland, [phone]

eric.noland(at)dailynews.com

LARKIN'S - Two and one half stars

>Details: 1496 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. (different menu for lunch), Sunday (for brunch) from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. [phone]. www.larkinsjoint.com.

>Cost: Dinner starters $7 to $9, main courses $15 to $19, sides $5 to $7, desserts $6 to $8.

>Noteworthy: Larkin's doesn't have a beer-wine license yet, but there is a Trader Joe's one block west on Colorado Boulevard, and the restaurant corkage fee is only $5.

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Larkin's in Eagle Rock is housed in a vintage Craftsman house, with some seating on a wrap-around porch. The atmosphere is homey, the food down-home.

ERIC NOLAND >LA.COM