SOOTHING SERENITY OF THE FURNACE CREEK INN DEATH VALLEY OFFERS VISITORS MORE THAN JUST HEAT.

Byline: Eric Noland Travel Editor

DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK - There are many stunning sights in Death Valley, but they are also far-flung, such that a visitor can quickly chew up an entire day with excursions to Ubehebe Crater, Badwater, Dante's View, maybe even an off-road jaunt to Charcoal Kilns or the Racetrack.

A sightseer should not cram the schedule so full, however, that simple relaxation is forsaken. Ample time should be allotted for savoring the desert's invigorating winter warmth and contemplating the region's kaleidoscope sunsets.

Perhaps no lodging property is better configured to accommodate these indulgences than the Furnace Creek Inn, which has been pampering guests since it was constructed from river rocks and adobe blocks 73 years ago.

It is comfortably removed from the main Furnace Creek complex, where a national park visitors center, gas station, store, golf course and the Furnace Creek Ranch, the inn's modestly priced sister property, cluster together.

Several hundred yards away, up a hill and tucked into a thick grove of date palms and tamarisk trees, the Furnace Creek Inn beckons weary travelers. In winter, room rates start at $230. For that, you'll get peace, quiet, a room recently redecorated in subtle hues . . . and access to one of the most inviting swimming pools in the West.

It is fed continuously by sizzling Travertine Spring, and is maintained at an exquisite 82 degrees. Because fresh water circulates through here constantly (the runoff is used to water the nearby Furnace Creek Golf Course), there is no need to put chemicals into the pool.

It is here, luxuriating in the waters, that guests can watch the sun set behind the Panamint Range, observe a moonrise behind the Amargosas, and soak up the reassuring stillness of the desert in late afternoon and evening. The stone deck area features two wood-burning fireplaces, which are stoked nightly this time of year so that when you emerge from the pool, you can wrap yourself in a terrycloth robe (provided by the resort) and position a lounge chair near the open blaze - nighttime temperatures in January and February, after all, dip into the low 40s.

If you're intrigued by the sights overhead, slip off to the lobby, where a high-powered telescope is aimed heavenward.

It's delightful just to walk leisurely around the inn's grounds. The hotel is terraced into the side of a mountain, and it blends easily with its surroundings - perhaps because it was constructed entirely from them.

The Pacific Coast Borax Co., mining the ``white gold'' that would spawn the romance of 20-mule teams and the 1950s TV show ``Death Valley Days'' (hosted by Ronald Reagan), constructed the building in a Moorish style in the late 1920s, employing a Spanish stonemason and Paiute and Shoshone adobe-brick craftsmen.

It appears the workers plucked nearly every stone they found in the Furnace Creek Wash. Rocks are mortared into place at every turn - in walls, walkways, arches, tunnels, planters, patios. They blend well with grounds that were recently replanted by Pomona landscape designer John Greenlee, who discarded the Rancho Mirage petunia-bed look for an emphasis on native decorative grasses that change color throughout the year, plus accents of such subtle plants as lantana and verbena.

The inn also underwent an interior redesign. ``We brought the outside colors in,'' said manager Toni Doyle Jepson, who oversaw replacement of furniture, carpet, drapes and bedspreads. ``We replaced the pink and turquoise of the Southwest fad.''

In the process, the Furnace Creek Inn has swapped its prior Mission feel for more the sense of a romantic European hideaway. Which is appropriate, really. It gets a crush of visitors from such nations as Germany, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Switzerland and Great Britain.

The European visitors are particularly fond of Death Valley in summer, so much so that the inn, which used to close in summer, has been operating year-round since 1996. ``They love the Old West, and they do want to see the desert at its harshest,'' Jepson said. ``If it's not 120 degrees, they're disappointed. They want to take their picture next to the thermometer.''

For families or travelers whose budget can't justify the inn's luxury, the nearby Furnace Creek Ranch is a viable alternative. Its rooms (starting at $94) are motel-like but clean and well-maintained, and its grounds feature a spring-fed pool, a broad greensward, playground apparatus, sand volleyball courts and close proximity to the 18-hole golf course (greens fees $50).

WHERE TO EAT

The Furnace Creek Ranch dining establishments were found to offer excellent service and hearty fare that seemed in keeping with the rugged, desert setting. Dinner at the Wrangler Steakhouse ranges from $18 to $25 (salad and side dishes included) and features eight cuts of beef and pork (including an unusual offering, pork mignon). The ribs are popular, but you might want to scrape off some of the smothering sauce. Vegetarian items and a salad bar are also available. The setting is fun - featuring piped-in music of 1950s TV western shows, also Gene Autry and the Sons of the Pioneers. At the upscale Furnace Creek Inn dining room, main courses on the a la carte menu range from $21 to $29.

WHERE TO STAY

Amfac Parks & Resorts operates three lodging options inside Death Valley National Park. They are Furnace Creek Inn, [phone]; Furnace Creek Ranch, [phone]; and Stovepipe Wells, [phone]. The park has nine campgrounds. Reservations: [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos, 2 boxes

Photo: (1 -- color) The Furnace Creek Inn, build of adobe bricks and river stones 73 years ago, offers luxurious lodging in the heart of Death Valley.

Eric Noland/Travel Editor

(2) The pool at the Furnace Creek Inn is a natural draw for guests. It is continuously fed by warm spring water.Its deck also provides a commanding view of the Panamint Range.

Eric Noland/Travel Editor

Box: (1) WHERE TO EAT (see text)

(2) WHERE TO STAY (see text)