SOMETHING TO BUILD ON TAKE A CHANCE ON AMBITIOUS, APPEALING PARK PLACE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THE NAME GAME in restaurants always intrigues me.

When a gray-haired man, evidently the proprietor of the new Park Place restaurant in Oak Park, stops by our table to see if things are going well, he mentions the possibility of opening another restaurant in Ventura.

``You could name it Boardwalk,'' I say, and immediately the conversation turns to the various Monopoly game properties.

Somehow, it's never determined whether he's named his restaurant after the actual Atlantic City, N.J., location or if its title was inspired by the game.

However, its being in Oak Park may well have been the real reason.

Anyway, for those more interested in the other facets of Park Place, it appears to be an ambitious venture, a restaurant that doesn't miss a turn.

It opens every day for lunch, dinner and cocktails, Saturdays and Sundays for breakfast and brunch, and actually served weekday breakfasts initially, giving that up quickly due to poor response.

Its bar area has two televisions for sports fans and a space for a band to entertain on weekend nights.

It offers full-service catering and delivery within a five-mile radius.

Its menu could be described as contemporary American, which means you'll find Asian, French, Mexican and Italian hints along with domestic favorites.

And not only does its kitchen do a pretty good job most of the time, it's not stingy with its portioning.

Order such good-tasting starters as crab and avocado egg rolls ($11.95) or the artichoke and mushroom-stuffed eggplant ($8.95) and you'll find them conveniently shareable for up to three or four diners with relatively normal appetites.

Especially if such obvious table items like the hot cheesy crab dip ($8.95), a cream cheese and artichoke creation, is added.

Creamy du jour soups like cauliflower and zucchini ($6.95) can also be satisfying beginnings here, and there are several salads (including half orders) and pastas for lighter eaters or to augment full meals.

Steaks ($13 to $24) appear to be average in quality with nicely executed accompaniments. Chicken breast dishes - like a marsala preparation ($16.95) and one with a Dijon mustard saucing ($15.95) - exceed expectations. And duck a l'orange ($19.95) is a sweet and large-portioned surprise.

Osso buco ($19.95) satisfies, although its rice companion should not be called risotto. And there's an excellent hamburger plate ($7.95) sporting a thick, juicy slab of chopped Angus beef.

End proceedings with a hot-out-of-the-oven, house-baked apple cobbler ($7.95) plate, and everyone goes home happy, not caring the least whether Park Place refers to Oak Park, a street in Atlantic City and/or the Monopoly game.

However, if the owner happens to dub his next restaurant Marvin Gardens, we'll know for sure.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

PARK PLACE

Food: Three stars

Service: Three stars

Wine: Two and one half stars

Where: 788 Lindero Canyon Road, Oak Park.

Hours: Open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays; for breakfast, brunch and dinner from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays.

Recommended items: Du jour soups, crab and avocado egg rolls, cheesy crab dip, stuffed eggplant, hamburger, chicken marsala or Dijon, duck a l'orange, apple cobbler.

How much: Starters from $3 to $12, pastas and entrees from $12 to $24, desserts from $6 to $8. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Quarterly changing list of 54 labels offers wines from $20 to $285. Seven wines by the glass ($5 to $7.50). Corkage: No charge for first bottle, $15 per bottle thereafter.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

(1 -- 2) Park Place owner Tom Averna, above left, presents a filet mignon with bordelaise sauce, left, and chef Clint Chuck, above right, serves up halibut in a macadamia crust with raspberry sauce, at Park Place in Oak Park.

Tina Burch/Staff Photographer