SMOKIN' GREAT BARBECUE AT THE BONEYARD.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

AARON ROBINS HAS come to the San Fernando Valley, specifically Sherman Oaks, as the chef/co-owner of the hot new Boneyard Bistro.

Robins, whose strong cooking credits in Chicago and San Francisco include a stint with noted taskmaster and celebrity chef Charlie Trotter, brings a level of expertise and artistry to his barbecue and Southern bistro fare that puts his dinner place in a niche all its own.

His hickory-smoked, barbecued ribs and meats are obviously superior quality, and they arrive in the oft-preferred dry-rubbed style with barbecue sauce on the side.

This is very different from the more familiar gloppy, sauce-slathered meats of most local barbecue eateries.

Consequently, some may find the Boneyard's versions too dry. But if a crowded dining room is any indication, foodies from all over town who seem to love it this way have jumped onto the Boneyard bandwagon.

This remarkable appeal appears to be the result of not just meaty babybacks (half-rack $18, full rack $26), but the consequence of the tenderest of brisket ($16) and the tastiest of tri-tip ($18) on plates that look like they belong on Gourmet magazine covers.

Portions throughout the menu seem large enough to share, even appetizers.

In one example, Robins produces his own version of a Caesar salad ($9) using ``twins'' of whole leaf romaine tied with a cucumber ``belt'' and stuffed with baby tomatoes for a dramatic and pleasing effect. Anchovies may be added on request.

I like his starter ``cake'' of pistachio-crusted brie cheese ($10) with greens, a provencal relish, crisp toast points and premises-made croutons.

And I also appreciate his pulled pork dumplings idea ($9), though I think the dough they were fashioned from could be a tad lighter and less pasty.

The best dishes from Boneyard's bistro menu listing are undoubtedly the porcini-crusted salmon ($22) and whiskey-brined pork chop ($26).

The salmon is as good as salmon gets, lovely and flaky. It arrives in all its glory on a bed of sauteed Swiss chard and truffled mashed potatoes, crowned with a mushroom ragout, perched in a mushroom broth in a striking deep glass bowl.

And just as alluring is Robins' pork chop; firm, moist, good-flavored, cut in two pieces, one with bone-in, flanked by an unusual mound of mashed pecans and sweet potato and an egg roll stuffed with pulled pork and collard greens. The pork's dark, rich sauce is a whiskey and Worcestershire reduction, and there's a lilting fruit relish garnish to complete the plate.

As good-looking, but disappointing because of its chewiness, is the grilled flat-iron steak ($23) aesthetically accompanied by broccolini, mashed potatoes flavored with sun-dried tomato and garlic, gratineed tomato and a zinfandel saucing.

Geometrically differing plates aid in the presentation of each dish in a comfortable room featuring lacquered tabletops, a backlit glass ceiling painting and an impressive multishelved wine cabinet.

There are numerous barbecue combination possibilities that include a huge array of food called a mega platter ($200) that feeds up to 10 and a smaller version labeled ``mini-mega'' ($125) that a half-dozen people were enjoying one evening.

From a quintet of desserts ($7 each, three for $18), an apple crisp topped with almond brittle, cinnamon ice cream and strawberries provides a fitting, gratifying ending to a Boneyard meal.

Welcome home, Chef Robins.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

BONEYARD BISTRO

Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Three and one half stars - Wine: Two and one half stars

Where: 13539 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 6 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

Food type: American.

Cost: Starters from $6 to $10, sandwiches $10 and $11, barbecue platters and entrees from $13 to $200 (the latter feeds eight to 10 persons), desserts $7 each, three for $18.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: Front patio planned in near future.

Parking/valet: Valet and street parking.

Full bar:No. Wine and beer only.

Wine/corkage: Thoughtful one-page selection. No great bargains. Peachy Canyon's Incredible Red zinfandel ($7 per glass, $25 per bottle) pairs well with barbecue, though it's marked up around 2 1/2 times retail. Corkage: $12.

Music/entertainment: No.

Takeout/delivery: Takeout service only.

Reservations: Usually needed. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Boneyard Bistro sous chef Luis Alverez, left, chef/owner Aaron Robins and manager/wine director Jennifer Rheuban present an array of the Sherman Oaks restaurant's menu offerings.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer