SMALL SHIPS SAIL REGIONAL WATERWAYS.

Byline: Arline Bleecker Orlando Sentinel

Like Rome, America wasn't built in a day, and to see it all could occupy a lifetime. What better way to sample the United States' diversity than by threading along its waterways on a cruise?

Domestic cruises emphasize a region's history, nature and local culture. Generally, these voyages aboard small ships are more casual than cruises aboard floating hotel-type vessels. Passengers choosing such journeys tend to be well-educated and lured more by learning than by luxury. Few vessels offer facilities dedicated to children.

However, each year more variety is added to the mix. Here are some of the more unique ways to see America, courtesy of a cruise:

Clipper Cruise Line, a small St. Louis-based adventure line, is a leading explorer of America's waterways. Its two ships, the 138-passenger Yorktown Clipper and the 100-passenger Nantucket Clipper, carry Zodiac landing craft and, depending on itinerary, sail with naturalists and historians. Clipper cruises explore Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, the Hudson River, New England's islands and the Great Lakes.

Last year, Clipper introduced cruise-and-rail combos, which combine six-day cruises on the Yorktown Clipper with five-day rail journeys on the private luxury train American Orient Express. It features 15 refurbished rail cars from the 1940s and '50s. Cruise-rail packages include the Sea of Cortez and Copper Canyon, and sailings in California's wine region coupled with rail trips from San Francisco to Santa Fe via the Grand Canyon.

Clipper's cruises start at $1,150 for the six-day Chesapeake Bayecology cruise. Information: [phone].

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Another company linking cruises with U.S. travel in private rail cars is Uncommon Journeys, which operates three private luxury rail carriages - the Houston, the Los Angeles and the City of Angels. Uncommon Journey's cruise-rail holidays pair cruises on Delta Queen Steamboat Co. paddlewheelers with overland train trips. If turn-of-the-century steamboats aren't Americana enough, there's Debbie Reynolds, ``America's sweetheart,'' who will perform aboard the Mississippi Queen during a 13-day New Year's cruise-rail combo departing Dec. 28. This package combines the nine-night cruise from Nashville with a rail journey from New Orleans to Los Angeles, and includes two hotel nights in New Orleans and free air fare to Nashville. Rates start at $2,295.

Information: [phone].

Another company linking cruises with U.S. travel in private rail cars is Uncommon Journeys, which operates three private luxury rail carriages - the Houston, the Los Angeles and the City of Angels. Uncommon Journey's cruise-rail holidays pair cruises on Delta Queen Steamboat Co. paddlewheelers with overland train trips. If turn-of-the-century steamboats aren't Americana enough, there's Debbie Reynolds, ``America's sweetheart,'' who will perform aboard the Mississippi Queen during a 13-day New Year's cruise-rail combo departing Dec. 28. This package combines the nine-night cruise from Nashville with a rail journey from New Orleans to Los Angeles, and includes two hotel nights in New Orleans and free air fare to Nashville. Rates start at $2,295.

Information: [phone].

Independent of Uncommon Journeys, Delta Queen Steamboat Co. is best-known for its three authentic steam-powered paddlewheelers, which retrace America's history on nine heartland waterways - from the mighty Mississippi and Ohio to the Arkansas and Atchafalaya rivers.

It is the oldest U.S.-flagged cruise line, sailing since 1890. The line's ports of call offer opportunities to visit antebellum plantations, the boyhood home of Mark Twain and historic Civil War sites.

New for the line this year are six-night fall-foliage cruises on the Illinois River in October and a Cajun culture cruise from New Orleans in November.

Air fare bonuses are offered for cruises booked with deposits eight months before departure: You'll get free round-trip air fare on cruises of seven nights or more or a $150 air fare allowance on cruises of six nights or less. Information: [phone].

Alaska Sightseeing Cruise West cruises Alaska but also offers California wine-country cruises and Columbia-Snake rivers cruises.

Twice-weekly departures from San Francisco to the Napa-Carneros wine-growing region are scheduled Sept. 29 through Nov. 28. The trip takes in the network of sloughs and rivers crisscrossing the Sacramento Delta area and visits to several wineries are featured. Shore trips - included in the price - include tours of underground storage caverns, a cask room banquet, Old Town Sacramento and the California Railroad Museum. Wine connoisseurs present on-board programs, as well. Prices start at $799 per person, double occupancy, for a four-night itinerary; three-night itineraries are also available, starting at $599. Information: [phone].

American West Steamboat Co. sails the deluxe 163-passenger Queen of the West paddlewheeler year-round from Portland, Ore., on three- to seven-night cruises on the Columbia, Willamette and Snake rivers.

On its seven-night cruise from Portland to Lewiston, Idaho, the 163-passenger Queen of the West journeys almost 1,000 miles. It passes through eight locks and dams and calls at the Columbia River Gorge, the Hood River and several other ports; all shore excursions are included. Cruise rates start at $1,045 per person, double occupancy. Book four to six months early and you save $400. Information: [phone].

You can retrace the journeys of Lewis & Clark on Special Expeditions' 70-passenger Sea Bird and Sea Lion, luxury yachtlike vessels with all-outside cabins and Zodiac landing craft for up-close explorations. These Pacific Northwest voyages on the Columbia and Snake rivers are led by historians and naturalists. Eight seven-day departures are offered in October, starting at $1,190, including excursions. Information: [phone].

Alaska Yacht Safaris is a new company that caters to the upscale nature lover seeking a look at Alaska. Cruises aboard two 100-foot, 12-passenger yachts start at $3,950, and include such stateroom luxuries as Jacuzzis. Prices also include tony amenities: private limousine airport transfers, wine and alcoholic beverages, guided safaris, champagne on secluded islands, most shore excursions, and private receptions with local artists in Prince Rupert and Juneau. Through September, the yachts ply 30 seven-night cruises between Vancouver and Juneau, visiting remote villages and nature sites in the company of naturalists. Information: [phone].

Don't overlook our 50th state. Year-round, children under age 17 cruise free on American Hawaii's Independence. In addition, through Aug. 9, the line is throwing in all this for free: a $200 shipboard credit per cabin, a two-night pre- or post-cruise stay at the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani Waikiki for two adults and their children or grandchildren sharing their cabin, plus a two-day car rental. Two adults sailing without children get the same package with a $400 shipboard credit. Seven-day sailings start at $1,695. [phone].

Maybe you would rather do the ``driving'' yourself? Through October, you can skipper a Crown Blue Line cabin cruiser on the Erie Canal, exploring the Mohawk Valley's lush landscape and history. Ply a journey westbound to Lake Oneida or eastward toward Albany. The $3,670 price includes a commodious six-passenger air-conditioned boat for one week, free parking at Crown Blue's base in Frankfort, N.Y., two bicycles on the boat and fuel. For a fee, provisions will be stocked for you. Information: [phone].

Among other lines cruising the states:

Rhode Island-based American Canadian Caribbean Line (800-556-7450) offers Great Lakes cruises and sailings from New Orleans to Chicago on ships of fewer than 100 passengers.

The Maine Windjammer Association (800-807-9463) is a fleet of schooners which you can help sail if you're so inclined. Ships sail the coast of Maine, stopping at islands along the way.

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2 Photos

Photo: (1--color) San Francisco Bay is just one of California's waterways that Alaska Sightseeing Cruise West ships navigate.

(2) The queen of the West paddlewheeler cruises the Columbia, Willamette and Snake rivers in the Pacific Northwest.