SMALL BITES MOTHER'S DAY AT L'ORANGERIE.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

For the first time in its 27-year history, L'Orangerie, L.A.'s landmark haute French restaurant at 903 N. La Cienega Blvd, will serve brunch on Mother's Day.

But don't expect the sit-down meal to be a bargain.

Priced at $85 per person, the three-course, prix-fixe brunch will feature such options as the restaurant's signature eggs en shell with osetra caviar, a foie gras duo, saddle of Colorado lamb, grilled prime tenderloin of beef and a raspberry napoleon.

Information and reservations: [phone].

MORE FOR MOM: Other haute L.A.-area restaurants will celebrate Mother's Day in different ways.

Valentino, the nationally recognized Santa Monica ristorante at 3115 Pico Blvd., presents a six-course dinner for $65 (children $45) starting at 4 p.m. Information and reservations: [phone].

Malibu's Granita, Wolfgang Puck's and Barbara Lazaroff's popular beach restaurant at 23725 W. Malibu Road, actually kicks off its Mother's Day at 10 a.m. with a menu containing both breakfast and lunch items ($8 to $26) that runs through 4 p.m. At 5:30 p.m., Granita reopens for dinner, serving its regular evening menu. Information and reservations: [phone].

... AND EVEN MORE: On the more moderate side, Maggiano's Little Italy at 6100 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, [phone], and 189 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles, [phone], offers a buffet brunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at $32.95 (children $15.95), and each mom will receive a $10 gift certificate good toward a future meal.

And Le Petit Jacques, 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, offers three specials - filet mignon ravioli with cabernet sauce ($19.95), stuffed filet of sole on risotto ($29.95) and steamed live Maine lobster ($23.95) - in addition to its regular menus all day and evening from 11:30 a.m. Information and reservations: [phone].

1940s PRICES: Birthday No. 60 for the famous Nate 'N Al's, 414 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, on May 24 will be celebrated by a turn of the clock back to the '40s with prices the same as they were around the time of the delicatessen-restaurant's 1945 inception.

For example, the signature thick turkey sandwich, reportedly large enough for two people, will be ticketed at only 60 cents.

Congrats to the Mendelson family, owners for three generations of the place where, on any given day, movie stars, statesmen and local politicians join everyday folks for pastrami, corned beef and other deli goodies.

Information: [phone].

NIBBLES & SIPS: Car buffs and hot dog fans join forces at 5 p.m. Saturday at The Stand, 17000 Ventura Blvd., Encino, where there will be domestic, European, classic, custom, performance and luxury autos from local car clubs on hand. Information: [phone]. ... Ready for $185 martinis? At The Blvd., the new boite (formerly the Lobby Lounge) at the Regent Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Beverly Hills, you can sip 'em in Baccarat crystal glasses that you keep. They're calling them Baccaratinis. Information: [phone]. ... Ancho chile-flavored dishes are being featured through June 14 at your neighborhood El Torito location as part of the San Luis Potosi regional special menu. Information: www.eltorito.com. ... Complimentary tapas are now served during happy hours at the new Ole! Tapas Bar at 13251 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Information: [phone] or www.oletapasbar.com. ... The lunch burgers have improved and are now bigger and better, claims Chez Jay's, the 46-year-old landmark eatery at 1657 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. Information: [phone] or www.chezjays.com. ... Also in Santa Monica, the Monday dinner bargain is a $29 three-course, prix-fixe meal that changes weekly at JiRaffe, 502 Santa Monica Blvd. Information: [phone] or www.jirafferestaurant.com. ... Regular dinner specials at the Riverside Cafe, 1221 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, are shepherd's pie ($11.75) on Fridays, steak casserole ($12.75) on Saturdays and roast lamb ($14.50) on Sundays. Information: [phone].