SMALL BITES ICE IS NICE FOR DINNER.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Usually, when restaurants open, they begin with dinner-only service and follow up a week or two later - sometimes several weeks - with the debut of lunch service.

But Ice, a new restaurant and bar at 3575 Cahuenga Blvd. W. in the Universal City area, once the home of L'Express and more recently Pasha, did it differently. First, Ice opened and began serving lunch. Now, it will officially unveil its dinner menu on Monday.

Dinners at Ice reflect an American kitchen with some down-home classics, a hint of Louisiana and touches of Asia and Europe.

Ice will also showcase live musical performances.

Information and reservations: [phone].

EASTER BRUNCHES: Last-minute Easter Sunday buffet brunchers might consider the Sportsmen's Lodge, 12833 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, all-day (9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) champagne brunch for $27.95 (children under 10 free), [phone]; Airtel Hotel's Landings, 7277 Valjean Ave., Van Nuys, $25.95 brunch (children under 12 $11.95, under 6 $4.95), [phone]; Renaissance's Garden Pavilion of the Church of Scientology's Manor Hotel, 5930 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, for $21 in advance ($26 at door, children under 12 half-price, under 6 free), [phone]; or the Grille at the Fairmont Miramar, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, parking included ($45, $22.50 ages 3 to 12, under 3 free), [phone].

Also worth a try by bigger buffet brunch spenders is the $68 champagne feast at the Peninsula's posh Belvedere, 9882 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone], or pay $58 sans bubbly.

In the same league is Breeze, the Westin Century Plaza Hotel's restaurant at 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, [phone], with its $58 buffet brunch (children 6 to 12 $29, under 6 free).

Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, [phone], is doing a sit-down brunch for $37 (children under 13 $27) and Taix, the 77-year-old French restaurant at 1911 Sunset Blvd., [phone] offers a three-course luncheon or four-course dinner featuring leg of lamb ($18.95) or roast pork loin ($15.95) as Easter meal specials from noon to 9 p.m.

Easter dinner specials (three courses) at the Steak Joynt, 4354 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, [phone], are a 14-ounce pork tenderloin ($19.95) and 14-ounce prime rib ($24.95).

NIBBLES & SIPS: No more sourdough pizzas at your local Straw Hat Pizza outlet. Now it's ``Da Pan'' pizzas instead. ... RaShon Smith, previously at James Beach and Blue on Blue at the Avalon Hotel, is the new chef at Cafe Rodeo at the Luxe Hotel, 360 Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills. Information and reservations: [phone]. ... This week's Friday (4:30 to 9 p.m.) and Saturday (3 to 7 p.m.) wine tasting at Red Carpet's wine bar, 400 E. Glenoaks Blvd., Glendale, features hot '99 California cabernets, sauvignon blancs from around the world and new arrivals. Tastes (2 ounces) usually run from $2 to $10 each, based on the cost of a full bottle. Information: [phone].