SMALL BITES CAFE OR BISTRO, IT'S STILL PLENTY PETIT.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Today, Le Petit Bistro, 13360 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, becomes Le Petit Cafe.

The name change will not affect the food and direction of the restaurant, says Le Petit Bistro/Cafe manager Andre Jagneau. The menu and staff will continue as before, he assures, explaining the name change as necessary to separate this restaurant from its sibling of the same name at 631 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood.

According to Jagneau, brothers Robert and Georges Lachkar will continue as owners but have brought on new partners in Le Petit Cafe's operation.

Information: [phone].

ANOTHER ROUND, MATE: Also new in Woodland Hills is the White Harte Pub at 22456 Ventura Blvd.

Owner Gary Richards also operates the Fox and Hounds in Studio City.

Both locations feature typical pub fare, serving lunch, dinner and snacks. The menu features such British grub favorites as Scotch eggs, pork pies and sausage rolls.

Information: [phone].

REMEMBERING LOIS: Sorry to hear of the death of Lois Dwan, retired restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times.

Lois, 91, who set the tone for restaurant criticism in this city, was admired by the restaurant community for her fairness and was always ready to share her views and knowledge with colleagues.

Certain arrogant restaurateurs who thought they could intimidate her found out she could be as tough as was needed to provide the truth to her readers.

Los Angeles restaurants came of age during her long tenure, prompted I'm sure by her thoughtful reflections.

I believe I'm very lucky to have known her.

GHOSTS FOR DESSERT: There's a new meaning to food, wine and spirits.

Dinner at Sir Winston's aboard the Queen Mary in Long Beach, followed by a ghost-finding tour of the ship with paranormal host Erika Frost, is set for Friday and Saturday evenings beginning April 8 at a $109 tab per person.

Information and reservations: [phone].

YES, YOU CAN CAN: The brand-new cabaret restaurant Moulin Rouge, 16101 Ventura Blvd., Encino, is currently open only on Friday and Saturday nights.

With a reasonably priced French dinner menu and no additional show costs, it appears to be an ambitious experiment, somewhat of a throwback to supper clubs of times past, when dinner and a ``floor show'' were commonplace.

Details and reservations: [phone].

NIBBLES & SIPS: Wolfgang Puck's newest restaurant is in Minneapolis. Its name, 20.21, stands for 20th and 21st century art. ... Unlimited wine tasting continues to be included in the price of a dinner entree Fridays and Saturdays at Cezanne at Le Merigot Beach Hotel, 1740 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. The wines with these vintner dinners change monthly. (Currently, it's Buena Vista followed by reserve William Hill wines throughout April.) Information and reservations: [phone]. ... Passover dinners by top L.A. chefs on April 24 are Lee Hefter's $175 seder feast (children under 9, $80) at Spago, 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-08880, and Suzanne Tracht's $95 meal (children under 12, $40) at Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd., [phone]. Both include beverages, tax and tip. ... If you missed your Easter lunch or dinner, Locanda del Lago, an Italian restaurant at 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, continues its Easter menu through Sunday. Information and reservations: [phone]. ... Garlic, garlic and more garlic is the current mode at some 700 Panda Express outlets nationwide. Through June 11 four garlic entrees will be spotlighted at various times: shrimp with asparagus in a spicy garlic sauce, spicy garlic beef, chicken breast in garlic black bean sauce and shrimp with sugar peas in garlic sauce. Information: www.pandaexress.com.