SMALL BITES BASTIDE: AU REVIOR TO PRIX-FIXE MENU.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Following the departure of chef Alain Giraud, the critically acclaimed Bastide, at 8475 Melrose Place, has given up its all prix-fixe menu.

With ex-L'Orangerie stove maestro Ludovic Lefebvre in charge of the Bastide kitchen, the ultra-posh, big-bucks French dinery owned by Joe Pytka has reverted to a regular bill of fare. It lists seven appetizers ($14 to $26), six entrees ($33 to $49), half a dozen desserts ($11 to $14) and a cheese plate (choose three for $15).

When it first opened, it only served dinners and was closed Saturday nights.

Later on, it served a la carte lunches.

Now it's back to dinners only, Tuesday through Saturday evenings from 6 to 10 p.m.

Affectionately known as chef Ludo, Lefebvre vies for starter foam fame with his ``floating island'' cauliflower soup ($14) with almonds, oysters and a bacon foam; a foie gras ``pina colada'' ($25) with rum, coconut sorbet and a pineapple foam; and marinated prawns ($24) with a pink grapefruit gelee and a caviar foam.

He does a two-way lobster dish ($45) with the claw in yellow pepper jelly with roasted beets and a red beet sorbet and the black tea-flavored tail with fried vermicelli and clams.

His colorful cardamom and pepper-crusted lamb offering ($49) arrives with eggplant caviar, black squid ink polenta, red bell pepper and zucchini.

Information and reservations: [phone].

INNOVATIVE ITALIAN: With executive chef Davide Moreno, a longtime associate of the Drago brothers (Tanino, Calogero and Giacomino), now in charge of the kitchen at the brothers' Panzanella, 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, there are some intriguing Italian specialties for Valley diners to try.

Foodies will find a premises-produced pasta called strozzapreti that's paired with an octopus (piovra) ragu ($14 at lunch, $16 at dinnertime).

A codfish mousse named baccala mantecato is served with grilled polenta ($11 at lunch, $12 at dinner). And sauteed foie gras (fegato d'oca, $16) is accompanied by grilled Trevisian radicchio during both the noon and evening hours.

Information and reservations: [phone].

NIBBLES & SIPS: Election edibles: Wingnuts in Costa Mesa (also in Aliso Viejo) has been pushing a Texas honey barbecued rib and wings combo for Bush supporters and its New England roadhouse barbecued rib and wings combo for Kerry voters. Both are priced at $13.99. ... Stefano Ongaro is the new maitre d'-general manager and wine director at Il Grano, 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. Information and reservations: [phone]. ... Claiming to have the ``largest and most varied menu'' of Indian food on the West Coast is the All India Cafe, 12113 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. Information: [phone]. ... Now offering outside catering service is one of L.A.'s hot, new restaurants, Grace, 7360 Beverly Blvd. Information: [phone]. ... Michelle and David Myers, spouse/chef/co-owners of Sona, 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., [phone], have been chosen by the Idaho Potato Commission to create its annual local five-course potato-inspired dinner, a private VIP affair at their restaurant.