SMALL BITES BARBECUING IN MONTROSE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Chef-owner Leonard Schwartz of Maple Drive in Beverly Hills has joined forces with the Gelsinger family and chef Michael Rosen (recently at Reign) in a new Montrose barbecue eatery. It's located in the former site of Gelsinger's Meat & Deli, which had been in business for 64 years.

Set for an opening at the end of this month, Zeke's Smokehouse, 2209 Honolulu Ave., features what Schwartz describes as ``authentic American barbecue.''

Barbecue styles from Memphis, Kansas City, Texas and the Carolinas are incorporated into the menu. Plus you'll find Schwartz's famous meatloaf and ``kick-ass chili'' recipes that he introduced as founding chef at 72 Market Street in Venice and has continued at Maple Drive.

Look for a variety of ribs, chicken, pulled pork, hot links (three types) and brisket at Zeke's.

And freshly baked white bread.

Information: [phone].

WESTSIDE OPENINGS:Also upcoming is Sona, trying to open on Oct. 29 at 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood. It's in the former site of Europa, Tryst et al. Look for Avenue, with a Nov. 1 targeted debut, in the ex-Mistral space at 301 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills.

Sona, owned by spouse-chefs David and Michelle Meyer with credits from Patina and other top restaurants in Los Angeles and New York, will be upscale, eclectic and promises a ``user-friendly wine list.'' Information: [phone].

MARDI GRAS FEASTING: The food of the best restaurant chefs in town from such culinary luminaries as Spago, Valentino, Patina, Zax, Max, Josie, Mako, JiRaffe, Angelini, Water Grill, Granita, Melisse, Mimosa and 27 more, will be served to VIP brunchers at the Pier del Sol 2002 Mardi Gras Madness event. It will be held Oct. 20 at Pacific Park on the Santa Monica Pier.

Cost for five brunchers plus unlimited rides and games is $375 with proceeds going to the Special Olympics of Southern California.

Tickets: Ticketmaster at [phone].

P.S.: Forgot to mention last week that the monthly Sunday brunch (with complimentary massage for adults) at Tournesol, 13251 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, due this weekend, includes supervised activities for kids (6 to 16) while the grown-ups are enjoying their buffet meal ($24 adults, $12 children 5 to 12, under 5 free).

Details and reservations: [phone].

NAPKIN NOTES: Claiming to be the first in the Santa Clarita Valley to serve USDA prime beef, Salt Creek Grille, 24415 Town Center Drive in the Valencia Town Center, offers prime New York steaks for $29 each with a 1-pound baked potato. Information: [phone]. ... Bouillabaisse is now being served the last Sunday of each month at Cafe Provencal, 2310 Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. Information and reservations: [phone].