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SMALL BITES A GRACE-FUL TRANSITION.


Byline: Larry Lipson

Saying grace before your meal will soon have new meaning.

That's because Grace is the name to be given to the restaurant previously known as Muse at 7360 Beverly Blvd., says Grace managing partner Richard Drapkin.

Grace, with escrow due to close by the end of this month, is named after the daughter of chef-partner Neil Fraser. His new American food was heralded at Boxer, Jimmy's and Rix. The new restaurant is targeting a mid-to-late-September opening with Amy Knoll as the general manager and third partner.

Drapkin said the plans are to change the front of the restaurant by opening up the facade, thus giving it more visibility from the road.

A reformatted kitchen will enable Fraser to produce such dishes as Thai lobster soup, pumpkin soup with sweet Maine shrimp, a sauteed scallop scallop or pecten, marine bivalve mollusk. Like its close relative the oyster, the scallop has no siphons, the mantle being completely open, but it differs from other mollusks in that both mantle edges have a row of steely blue "eyes" and  dish with a parsnip Parsnip, river, Canada
Parsnip, river, c.150 mi (240 km) long, rising in central British Columbia, Canada, and flowing northwest to join the Finlay River at Williston Lake and form the Peace River.
 puree pu·rée or pu·ree  
tr.v. pu·réed or pu·reed, pu·rée·ing or pu·ree·ing, pu·rées or pu·rees
To rub through a strainer or process (food) in a blender.

n.
, braised braise  
tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es
To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container.
 rabbit, sauteed foie gras, fresh sardines, a tandoor tan·door  
n. pl. tan·doors or tan·door·i
A cylindrical oven made of clay, heated to a high heat over charcoal or wood, and used in India for baking bread and roasting meat.
 quail, sauteed skate, wild boar tenderloin and a charred hanger steak.

The Grace dessert menu will include such items as a chestnut gateau, chocolate souffle souffle /souf·fle/ (soo´f'l) a soft, blowing auscultatory sound.

cardiac souffle  any cardiac or vascular murmur of a blowing quality.
, peanut butter chocolate box and a selection of imported and domestic cheeses.

Let's hope that Grace will be amazing.

BRUNCH IN BEL-AIR: The upscale Sunday brunch at Four Oaks, 2181 N. Beverly Glen Blvd., Bel-Air, is a summer tradition.

Chef Peter Roelant's sit-down brunch ($37) is a lavish meal that includes croissants, chocolate muffins, cornbread, orange-scented butter and natural marmalade.

The first course has six dish options, one standout being a chilled organic tomato soup with a dollop of horseradish-vodka-flavored creme fraiche.

Nine second-course items run the gamut from egg dishes to a bourbon- marinated pork loin loin (loin) the part of the back between the thorax and pelvis.

loin
n.
The part of the body on either side of the spinal column between the ribs and the pelvis.
 filet.

A half-dozen dessert possibilities reveal a glazed whiskey and sour cherry bread pudding and vanilla ice cream profiteroles with a warm chocolate sauce.

Information and reservations: (310) 470-2265.

WE HAVE MAIL: Reader Patricia M. Okada of Glendale asks if I've ever reviewed an Afghan restaurant.

Yes, I have, Patricia. The latest one is called Afghan House and it's located at 8516 Reseda Blvd. in Northridge.

It earned a three-star rating and is very inexpensive.

I recommend its leek leek: see onion.
leek

Hardy, vigorous, biennial plant (Allium porrum) of the lily family, native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. It has a mild, sweet, onionlike flavour.
 and onion dumplings, potato puffs, potato turnovers, kebabs (chicken, seasoned ground beef or lamb loin chops), sauteed spinach or eggplant, ground beef dumplings, and its yogurt and mint drink.

Information: (818) 709-6233.

FOR A LIMITED TIME: The Il Fornaio and El Torito chains continue their monthly, regional, special menus with the Il Fornaio restaurants showing off the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area of Italy with 10 dishes and three wines and El Torito offering eight Yucatan, Mexico, specialties and a special mango margarita.

Il Fornaio's special menu runs through June 16, El Torito's through June 30.
COPYRIGHT 2002 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2002, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Jun 7, 2002
Words:446
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