SLOW AND EASY; CROCKERY COOKERY STILL AT HOME IN THE KITCHEN.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

The slow cooker, that electric all-in-one cooking dish, popularized and trademarked by the Rival Co. as the Crock-Pot in 1971, has become a lasting trend.

While the pots - since then made under different brand names - have had their ups and downs over the last 20-some years - they're back in favor and at home in the kitchen these days. And cooks aren't embarrassed to admit they use them - and often.

Some have pulled them from the back of closet shelves and dusted them off, while others have jumped on the slow-cooking bandwagon for the first time. It's no wonder. You can turn out a variety of versatile and interesting creations with ease and convenience.

According to Lori Baker, home economist for Rival in Kansas City, Mo., after a lull in the '80s, people are going back to the slow cooker. ``The company has seen yearly increases in sales - single- or double-digit - since the early '90s. And we anticipate overall sales increases again this year. We estimate last year that about 7 million slow cookers of all types and brands were sold.

``We got busier and busier as a nation as so many more women with children were working, and the Crock-Pot was a great appliance to add convenience and prepare economical, home-cooked meals,'' said Baker. Also, Rival developed and released more fashionable colors and designs in the early '90s - and cooks started to buy a second slow cooker. Rival was selling to more than just first-time buyers.

Today Rival offers round-shaped pots in 1- to 6-quart sizes and oval pots in 3 1/2-, 4 1/2- and 5 1/2-quart sizes. ``People really went crazy over the oval-shaped pots when they were introduced in 1996,'' said Baker, adding ``they're nice for large roasts, turkey breasts, ribs and more.''

Rival's latest innovation on the theme is the Crock-Pot Duet, which is being introduced in selected department stores next month. The 5 1/2-quart oval pot has a divided stoneware insert with a permanent stoneware wall or divider that splits the pot into two separate compartments, one with about two-thirds of the total capacity, the other with one-third. It is designed to offer cooks flexibility and save them from buying two pots.

For example, you can cook a vegetable or rice or dessert on the smaller side and cook meat, soup or chili on the large side. ``We prepared and served jambalaya with rice at a recent (housewares) show, and everyone loved it,'' said Baker. ``Although it has a single lid, we haven't experienced any mingling of flavors in our extensive recipe testing.''

You can start various recipes - using your favorites, or those that come with the pot - at the same or different times. During testing of the pot, many consumers said they would prepare the same basic recipe but with different spices (i.e. with and without onions to appeal to their kids).

Although some cooks are requesting healthier, low-fat recipes - and Rival has, in response, produced ``Easy Low-Fat Cuisine,'' with 45 recipes, each with less than 15 grams fat per serving, (available for $9.95 by calling 800-557-4825), Baker believes that most people who use the pot on a regular basis aren't concerned about lowering fat.

If your vision of slow-cooker dishes in the past has been of gray and unappealing food that has been cooked for hours, be aware that these days timing is critical for appealing chicken, appetizers, rice, desserts and drinks. Not all foods should be cooked eight, 10 or 12 hours, so pick recipes to fit in with your schedule. An extra hour or two will ruin some dishes. For instance, most chicken recipes take only 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 hours.

Don't be alarmed if slow-cooker recipes call for a larger amount of spices than usual - or they appear to be too thick when cooking begins. Herbs and spices fade with slow cooking - and mixtures become more liquid with condensation and accumulation of moisture in the pot.

Kristi Fuller, a cookbook editor for Better Homes and Gardens Books, who was responsible for editing ``New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker,'' which came out last year, believes the ever-increasing interest in slow cooking is related to the pot being so easy to use. In many cases, you can toss everything in and walk away until dinner time. ``This is an appliance that doesn't really go out of style, because people appreciate the convenience.''

The book's recipes are designed to use a continuous slow cooker, which has heating coils or elements wrapped around the sides of the cooker and remains on continuously - and which is preferred by most cooks. Intermittent cookers, which have the heating element or coil located beneath the food container and cycle on and off during operation are not recommended, as they tend to cook food less evenly and sometimes even burn it.

This new volume has freshened up the recipes and ingredients - and expanded them beyond traditional boundaries. Many recipes take you globe-trotting - Thai Chicken Soup, Beef and Chipotle Burritos, Persian-Style Stew, to name a few - and have a fusion of flavors. Recipes also showcase the pot's versatility. Who would have thought you could make Raspberry Fudgy Brownies or Caramel-Pear Pudding Cake in it?

Put your slow cooker to work with one of these recipes. You're in for some good eating without a hassle.

ARTICHOKE CHICKEN AND OLIVES

The flavors of artichokes, olives and thyme lend Mediterranean accent to this dish.

1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast halves AND/OR thighs

2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms

1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes 

1 package (8 OR 9 ounces) frozen artichoke hearts

1 cup chicken broth 

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 cup sliced pitted ripe olives OR 1/4 cup drained capers 

1/4 cup dry white wine OR chicken broth

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

2 to 3 teaspoons curry powder 

3/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

4 cups hot cooked couscous 

Rinse chicken; set aside.

In a 3 1/2- OR 4-quart crockery cooker, combine mushrooms, undrained tomatoes, frozen artichoke hearts, chicken broth, onion, olives and wine. Stir in tapioca, curry powder, thyme, salt and pepper. Add chicken; spoon some of tomato mixture over chicken.

Cover; cook on low-heat setting 7 to 8 hours or high-heat setting 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Serve with hot cooked couscous. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker.''

SANCOCHO PORK STEW

This healthy stew, with its origin attributed to Panama, is mildly spiced with chili powder and chiles. The yams or sweet potatoes lend a complementary sweetness.

3 medium yams OR sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 large green bell pepper, cut into strips

1 cup frozen whole kernel corn

1 medium onion, sliced and separated into rings

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1 teaspoon chili powder

3/4 teaspoon ground coriander 

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups water

1 can (10 ounces) chopped tomatoes with green chiles

1 package (9 ounces) frozen cut green beans 

In a 3 1/2-, 4- OR 5-quart crockery cooker, place yams, bell pepper, corn, onion and garlic. Add pork, chili powder, coriander and salt. Pour water and undrained tomatoes over all.

Cover; cook on low-heat setting 7 to 8 hours or high-heat setting 3 1/2 to 4 hours, adding frozen green beans last 15 minutes of cooking time. Makes 6 to 8 servings

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker.''

THAI CHICKEN SOUP

Lemon grass is a popular herb used in Thai cooking. It resembles a very large green onion. Use only the fibrous white bulb, which contains a lemon fragrance and flower.

1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast OR thighs, rinsed and cut into 3/4-inch pieces

4 cups chicken broth

2 cups diagonally sliced carrots

1 large onion, chopped

2 tablespoons grated ginger root

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 stalks lemon grass, cut into 1-inch pieces OR 1 teaspoon finely shredded lemon peel

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper 

1 can (15 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk

1 medium red, yellow AND/OR green bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 cans (4 ounces EACH) straw OR button mushrooms, drained

1/4 cup snipped cilantro

1/3 cup chopped roasted peanuts

In a 3 1/2-, 4- OR 5-quart crockery cooker, combine chicken, broth, carrots, onion, ginger root, garlic, lemon grass and crushed red pepper.

Cover; cook on low-heat setting 6 to 7 hours or high-heat setting 3 to 3 1/2 hours. If necessary, skim off fat. Stir coconut milk, bell pepper, mushrooms and cilantro into chicken mixture. Cover; let stand 5 to 10 minutes. Remove and discard lemon grass. Ladle soup into bowls. Sprinkle peanuts over each serving. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker.''

MULLED CRANBERRY CIDER

This is a great starter for a dinner, a brunch or a simple evening of appetizers and good cheer.

1 small orange

8 cups cranberry-raspberry drink

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

6 inches stick cinnamon

3 star anise 

1 teaspoon whole cloves

Orange peel strips (optional)

Remove orange portion of orange peel using a vegetable peeler. Cut peel into strips. Squeeze juice from orange; discard seeds and pulp.

In a 3 1/2-, 4- OR 5-quart crockery cooker, combine orange juice, cranberry-raspberry drink and brown sugar.

For a spice bag, place orange peel, cinnamon, star anise and whole cloves on a double-thick, 8-inch square of 100 percent cotton cheesecloth. Bring corners of cheesecloth together and tie with a clean cotton string. Add to cooker.

Cover; cook on low-heat setting 5 to 6 hours or high-heat setting 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

To serve, remove spice bag and discard. Ladle cider into cups. If desired, garn1ish with additional orange peel strips. Makes 10 (6-ounce) servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker.''

CARAMEL-APPLE NACHOS 

Nachos get a sugar-and-spice twist. The apple mixture is served with cinnamon-spiced tortilla crisps. Top it all off with vanilla yogurt and toasted pecans - yum.

2/3 cup packed brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar 

1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 1/2 cups apple juice OR apple cider 

2 pounds cooking apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices (6 cups)

1 tablespoon margarine OR butter, cut up

1 carton (8 ounces) vanilla yogurt

1/4 cup chopped, toasted pecans

1 recipe Cinnamon Tortilla Crisp

In a 3 1/2- or 4-quart crockery cooker, stir together brown sugar, granulated sugar, tapioca and cinnamon. Stir in apple juice. Add apple slices and margarine; stir to mix.

Cover; cook on low-heat setting 6 to 7 hours or high-heat setting 3 to 3 1/2 hours.

To serve, divide apples and syrup among 8 dessert dishes. Top each serving with vanilla yogurt and pecans. Serve with Cinnamon Tortilla Crisps. Makes 8 servings.

CINNAMON TORTILLA CRISPS: In a bowl, combine 4 teaspoons granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Cut 2 (7- to 8-inch) flour tortillas into 8 wedges each. (Or, cut 3 (6-inch) corn tortillas into 6 wedges each.) Lightly spray wedges with nonstick vegetable oil coating. Place wedges in a single layer on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 12 minutes or until crisp. (Or, bake corn tortillas about 8 minutes.)

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker.''

EASY BEEF CHILI

This is a cinch to prepare with a little assistance from canned beans, tomatoes ad green chiles. Use it as a base for tostada salads or as a filling for tacos or burritos.

1 pound boneless beef round steak, trimmed of all fat and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin 

2 tablespoons chili powder

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt 

3 garlic cloves, crushed through a press

1 can (7 ounces) diced green chiles

1 medium onion, chopped

1 can (30 ounces) chili beans, undrained

2 cans (15 ounces EACH) black beans, rinsed and drained

1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced peeled tomatoes, undrained

1 can (12 ounces) OR 2 cans (6 ounces EACH) tomato paste

In a 4- or 5-quart electric slow cooker, mix together beef, cumin, chili powder, seasoned salt, garlic, chiles and onion. Add undrained chili beans, drained black beans, undrained tomatoes and tomato paste. Mix gently to avoid mashing beans.

Cover and cook on low-heat setting about 5 hours or until beef is tender. Makes 5 to 6 servings.

From ``The Best Slow Cooker Cookbook Ever'' by Natalie Haughton, Harper Collins.

PARTY BEAN DIP 

This is a great choice when you're expecting a crowd. Use any leftovers to make the base of a tostada salad - pile on top of a few chips and top with shredded lettuce and cheese, chopped tomatoes, avocado, green onions and salsa.

1 pound lean ground beef

1 large onion, chopped

2 cans (15 ounces EACH) pinto beans, rinsed and drained

1 cup ketchup

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Pinch cayenne pepper OR more to taste

1/2 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives OR 1 can (2 1/4 ounces) sliced black olives, drained

1 1/2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese

Tortilla chips and fresh cut-up vegetables for serving

In a large skillet, on top of stove, cook beef with onion over medium-high heat, stirring until browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain off fat.

Turn into a 3 1/2-quart electric slow cooker. Add beans, mashing up to 1/2 of them with a fork. Stir in ketchup, chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, cayenne and olives until well mixed.

Cover and cook on high-heat setting 1 1/2 hours or on low-heat setting 3 hours.

Stir in 1 cup cheese, mixing well. Top with remaining 1/2 cup cheese.

Serve immediately with tortilla chips and fresh vegetables. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes 4 1/2 to 5 cups.

From ``The Best Slow Cooker Cookbook Ever'' by Natalie Haughton, Harper Collins.

SAUCY APRICOT-GLAZED CHICKEN

This is a slow-cooker rendition of the ever-popular chicken glazed with a mixture of apricot preserves, Russian dressing and dry onion soup mix that's usually baked in the oven. Cooked in the slow cooker, you end up with a lot of delicious, apricot-colored sauce to gussy up the chicken breasts. Serve over wild rice or white rice; or try basmati or jasmine rice, cooked on top of the stove. If you have leftover chicken and sauce, freeze and use within two months.

1 cup good-quality chunky apricot preserves

3/4 cup bottled Russian dressing

1 envelope (1.15 ounces) dry onion soup mix

12 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, trimmed of fat (about 3 1/2 to 4 pounds)

In a medium bowl, mix together apricot preserves, dressing and dry soup mix until well blended. Arrange 3 chicken breast halves in bottom of a 3 1/2-quart electric slow cooker. Spoon 1/4 of apricot mixture on top. Add 3 more layers of chicken with apricot mixture in between and on top.

Cover and cook on high-heat setting 1 hour. Reduce heat setting to low and continue cooking, covered, 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until chicken is tender and white throughout; do not overcook or chicken will toughen. Serve sauce over chicken. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``The Best Slow Cooker Cookbook Ever'' by Natalie Haughton, Harper Collins.

SPICY FRANKS

This fast and easy to prepare appetizer can usually be made from ingredients on hand.

1 cup ketchup

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

1 pound frankfurters, cut in 1-inch pieces OR 1 pound cocktail wieners OR smoked sausages

Place ketchup, brown sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, mustard and garlic in a 3 1/2-quart slow cooker.

Cover and cook on high setting until blended, 1 to 2 hours. Stir in frankfurters. Cover and cook until thoroughly heated, 1 to 2 hours.

Turn on low to keep warm and serve from cooker. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

From Rival.

TURKEY PEPPER POT

1 1/2 cups chopped red, yellow OR green bell peppers

1 small onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound turkey cutlets, cut into thin strips

1 can (14 1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes with basil, garlic and oregano 

1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil leaves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons cornstarch 

Hot cooked rice

Combine peppers, onion, garlic, turkey, tomatoes and basil in a 3 1/2-quart slow cooker. Cover; cook on low setting 7 to 9 hours.

Combine balsamic vinegar and cornstarch and stir into liquid in cooker.

Cover; cook on high setting 20 to 30 minutes. Serve over hot cooked rice. Makes 4 servings.

From Rival.

SPICY CHICKEN CHOW MEIN

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces

4 large carrots, thinly sliced

4 green onions, sliced (including green portions)

3 stalks celery, sliced

1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 tablespoon sugar

1/3 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1 clove garlic, minced

8 ounces bean sprouts

1 can (8 ounces) water chestnuts

1/4 cup cornstarch

1/2 cup water

Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken pieces and cook until brown. Put in a 3 1/2- to 4-quart slow cooker. Add remaining ingredients, except cornstarch and water; stir to combine. Cover; cook on low setting 6 to 8 hours.

Turn cooker to high.

In a small bowl, stir cornstarch into cold water until dissolved. Stir into liquid in cooker. Place cover slightly ajar. Cook until thickened 15 to 30 minutes.

Serve with chow mein noodles or rice. May be doubled for 5-quart models. Makes 6 servings.

From Rival.

PEACH COBBLER

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

3/4 cup all-purpose baking mix, such as Bisquick

2 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 teaspoons margarine OR butter, melted

1/2 can evaporated milk

3 large ripe peaches, mashed

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Lightly grease a slow cooker or spray with a nonstick cooking spray.

In a large bowl, combine sugars and baking mix. Add eggs and vanilla. Stir. Pour in margarine and milk and stir. Mix in peaches and cinnamon, until well mixed.

Pour into slow cooker. Cover and cook on low setting 6 to 8 hours or on high 3 to 4 hours.

Serve warm. Top with vanilla ice cream, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

From Rival.

Do's and don'ts of slow cooking

For successful slow cooking, keep these tips in mind.

After removing food from a hot crockery insert, add hot water - not cold - to avoid breakage and cracking.

For safety reasons, remove any cooked food from the cooker before storing in the fridge or freezing. Never reheat already cooked dishes in a slow cooker.

For best results, most manufacturers recommend filling a slow cooker half- to three-quarters full. Refer to the instruction manual that was included with your pot.

When adapting recipes for the slow cooker, it may be necessary to reduce the liquid in a recipe.

Use only the amount of liquid specified in a recipe, even if it seems like too little. You'll be amazed at the amount of liquid that accumulates in a slow cooker from foods and through condensation during the cooking process.

Generally figure that one hour on the high setting is about two hours on low. Refer to specific directions in recipes as some should be only cooked on one setting.

Avoid using completely frozen foods in the slow cooker. If necessary, thaw frozen ingredients in a microwave oven before adding to the cooker.

To end up with as little fat as possible in finished dishes, use lean meats and skinless poultry (chicken breasts preferred) and trim off all visible fat.

Avoid removing the lid and peeking during the cooking time unless stirring is required. Otherwise an extension of the cooking time may be required.

Cooking times may vary depending on the cooker so use times in recipes as guidelines.

Don't assume that because you are using a slow cooker that timing isn't crucial. Remember some recipes are more forgiving than others - and not all dishes can take an extra hour or two of cooking time.

For best flavor, color and texture, brown ground beef or ground turkey stove-top prior to adding to the slow cooker. With few exceptions, most other meats don't need browning.

With extended cooking, dairy products such as milk, cream and natural cheeses will break down. Generally, add them near the end of the cooking time. Processed cheeses or cheese spreads can tolerate more heat.

Because dense vegetables like potatoes and carrots generally take longer to cook than meats, place in the bottom and around the sides of the slow cooker and top with meats.

Herbs and spices often become diluted and lose their flavor with long slow cooking. Be sure to taste finished creations before serving and adjust the seasonings, adding more herbs and spices as necessary. Also add fresh herbs at the end for freshest flavor. Seasoned salt and garlic pepper work wonders for adding pizazz to finished dishes.

Colors often fade with long slow cooking, so dress up dishes with garnishes of chopped fresh parsley, watercress, cilantro, basil or other fresh herbs, sliced green onions, chopped tomatoes or red and green bell peppers, shredded carrots or cheese, yogurt, sour cream, lemon or lime wedges and crumbled cooked bacon for eye appeal.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Color) no caption (Crockery cooker, vegetables)

(2) no caption (Cookbook - Better Homes and Gardens New Flavors From Your Crockery Cooker)

Box: Do's and don'ts of slow cooking (See text)