SLICE OF LUCK LOTTERY WINNER CLOSING LANDMARK PIZZA PARLOR.

Byline: Brent Hopkins Staff Writer

EAGLE ROCK - When Julio Schembari's ovens grow cold next Sunday, Los Angeles won't just be losing another pizza joint.

No, that's too simple a view. Sure, the 73-year-old restaurateur makes the saucy pies, but it's not just another faceless eatery. To call it just a restaurant leaves out the hand-painted art on the walls, the lovingly tended sauces, the entire package that is Itzza Julio's Pizza. For 43 years, it's been the place to go for a quiet lunch with some tasty food.

Schembari certainly never expected things to turn out like this, retiring while business is still booming.

``We started out making eight bucks a night,'' he remembered, serving up a special order of meatballs. ``It was a long grind, but it's sure worked out. We're going out on a high.''

He'd originally planned to work a few more years, then retire to go ride his horse and spend time with family. Then he hit the lottery last year, coming into a cool $6 million, so he decided to take it easy a little sooner. But while he's selling the building, on the main drag at Eagle Rock Boulevard and York Boulevard, there's no way he's giving up the name or the secrets.

``We could never do that,'' said Georgie, his wife and second in command. ``No one could get it right. Ever.''

It's not a flashy place; no high-priced boutique dishes with weird, unpronounceable ingredients. They've kept it simple over the years, sticking to delectable thin-crust pizzas and lasagnas, never venturing beyond linguine with clam sauce. The trick, Schembari explained, lies in keeping everything fresh.

``Cooking sauce and pizza from scratch is getting to be a dying breed,'' he said, lovingly running a hand over a 60 gallon spaghetti cooker. ``There's a lot of places that can assemble things out of a can, but not so many who can do fresh.''

Though he kept his menu simple, Schembari wasn't above trying out new things. After developing a taste for Mexican salsa, he fooled around with the ingredients, trading cilantro for oregano, and came up with his own hot sauce. This resulted in a thick, rich, chutney-like spread for his pizzas, one that instantly won him a huge following in the Indian community.

``At just the right time, it has a little oomph to it,'' said Kan Patel, a structural engineer who's been coming to Itzza's since 1963. ``We work downtown, but we still drive. It's worth it, because there's no better pizza in the world.''

The longtime devotee, who comes in a minimum of once a week in spite of a 25-mile, one-way commute, had some strong words for his favorite pizza purveyor.

``I can't believe you're closing! We expect you to come back,'' he said, smiling and wagging a finger at Schembari. ``Maybe you could start a school, like Emeril.''

It's not just the food, other patrons stress. There's a whole atmosphere imbued into the old walls, lined with pictures of neighborhood kids. As the owner wanders the floor, dishing out food to customers, he's still got time to stop for a quick chat.

The L.A. Bums know this well. The 17-man club of retirees - friends for 50 years - comes to Itzza Julio's monthly, drawn by the relaxing atmosphere. As they shot the breeze by their window seat, Schembari joined in, trading lines from old DeNiro movies and listening to stories of Italian vacations.

``It's worth it, even with the drive,'' said Paul Anter, a Mission Viejo resident. ``It's comfortable in here, and I'd recommend it to anyone.''

Though they'd already heard of the impending closure, the Bums showered Schembari with good-natured ribbing when the subject came up.

``Where are we going to go now?'' wondered George Milan, clutching his cloth napkin in mock horror.

``Come to my house, I'll take care of you guys,'' the owner shot back.

That's what he's been doing all along, according to Georgie. She's put her share of work into the business as well, painting the colorful carousel mural on the patio, detailing the bathroom tiles with a rustic motif by hand and inscribing the names of each worker who's ever passed through the massive kitchen on its walls. Though she and her husband are looking forward to their newfound free time, they realize they'll be leaving a gap behind.

``Since we told people that we're closing, every day's been like a weekend, and every weekend's been like Mother's Day,'' she said. ``It's exciting for us, but it's heartbreaking for the neighborhood.''

Though he's closing up shop for now, running full blast for the last week, Schembari isn't quite ready to hang up the apron.

``There's been some interest in franchising,'' he said, a grin working its way onto his animated face. ``I just might have some energy left.''

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3 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) After winning the lottery, Julio Schembari will close the pizza and pasta restaurant he has owned and operated since 1959.

(2 -- color) Julio Schembari makes every pizza with fresh ingredients, including homemade sausage.

(3) Julio Schembari stands and chats with some of the regulars at his pizza and pasta restaurant.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer