SLICE OF HEAVEN AT ANGELINO.Byline: Larry Lipson
Angelo Disanto is a pretty good Italian chef.
He had limited success at his Frascati ristorante in Woodland Hills (now Ritrovo) and later in Studio City at Angelino Cucina (replaced by Outtake out·take
a. A section or scene, as of a movie, that is filmed but not used in the final version.
b. A complete version, as of a recording, that is dropped in favor of another version.
Now he's turned up again operating a tiny pizzeria, also called Angelino's, in North Hollywood.
His pizzas are as good as they've ever been, displaying the fresh, slightly floury, chewy chew·y
adj. chew·i·er, chew·i·est
Needing much chewing: chewy candy.
chewi·ness n. crust and flavorful toppings that separate the pizza men from the pizza boys.
I like his simple cheese pizza (medium $8.75, large $11.25) which reveal restraint and balance, not overwhelming you with too much cheese or tomato sauce, just the right amount of each, and thankfully not too gummy gummy
an old sheep that has lost all of its incisor teeth. .
For those with more exotic or specialized tastes, there's a shrimp topping ($17.95 and $23.95), a seafood topping ($24.95 only), a Hawaiian topping ($21.50 only) and a vegetarian pizza ($11.95 and $14.95).
His regular crust holds the toppings nicely, but he'll bake it thin if you want, and he'll add extra stuff like sausage, mushrooms, anchovies anchovies
a cause of diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, lacrimation, depression, miosis, polypnea, tachycardia, hypothermia in cats. , pepperoni and more for $1.95 per topping on a large or $1.45 on a small pie.
Angelino, a no-frills, little storefront spot on Lankershim Boulevard, up the street from Universal Studios, has a handful of tables inside, a couple outside. You order and pay at the counter in advance, certainly not the "fine dining" promised by its Web site.
But it's definitely better fare most of the time than you'd expect from such an unassuming place.
Pastas arrive hot and al dente with tasty, well-seasoned sauces. Even the meatballs option -- sausage is the alternative -- with the spaghetti plate ($8.50) show up with a springy spring·y
adj. spring·i·er, spring·i·est
1. Marked by resilience; elastic.
2. Abounding in freshwater springs.
spring texture, nicely meaty, thankfully lacking that pasty breaded filling that too many meatballs have in similar pizzerias.
Disanto's kitchen cooks its chicken properly, with tender and deliciously moist pieces arriving in its pollo marsala ($11.50).
Grilled swordfish ($12.50) topped with diced tomato is somewhat less satisfying, though at this price, one can't really expect a masterpiece.
Most plates come with a small, leafy salad, and foccaccia is brought to the table as a beginning nibble Half a byte (four bits).
(data) nibble - /nib'l/ (US "nybble", by analogy with "bite" -> "byte") Half a byte. Since a byte is nearly always eight bits, a nibble is nearly always four bits (and can therefore be represented by one hex digit). .
Large pitchers of soda ($4.50) provide a sensible family-sharing beverage. There are also a couple of soups, a trio of salad options and spumoni spu·mo·ni or spu·mo·ne
An Italian ice cream having layers of different colors or flavors and often containing fruits and nuts.
[Italian, augmentative of spuma, foam, from Latin or a pastry for a sweet ending.
And for the local solo eater, Angelino has been thoughtfully selling pizza by the slice.
At its best: Pizzas, pastas and pollo plates as good as the town's full-service, ristorante versions.
Could be better: Swordfish, unless improved, could go and wouldn't be missed.
ANGELINO PIZZERIA EXPRESS - Three stars
>Details: 4384 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood. Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9p.m. weekdays, from noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. (818) 769-5241. www.angelinopizzeria.com
>Cost: Starters from $3.50 and $4.50, sandwiches $6.50, pizzas from $8.75 to $21.50, entrees and pastas from $6.50 to 13.50, desserts $3.50 and $3.95.
>Noteworthy: If it's successful, will Angelo Disanto sell it and move on like he did with his previous restaurants?
(1) A Caprese pizza made with tomatoes, mozzarella moz·za·rel·la
A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza.
[Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, cheese and basil is served at Angelino Pizzeria Express in North Hollywood.
(2) Angelino offers more than pizza: The shrimp salad is filled with shrimp and fresh vegetables and finished with a dressing of olive oil, lemon and balsamic vinegar.
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