SIMI VALLEY GETS FAMOUS.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic The nationwide chain of barbecue eateries called Famous Dave's  This article or section is written like an .Please help [ rewrite this article] from a neutral point of view. Mark blatant advertising for , using . added to its Palmdale and El Centro El Centro (ĕl sĕn`trō), city (1990 pop. 31,384), seat of Imperial co., SE Calif., near the Mexican border; inc. 1908. It is a processing and shipping center for a heavily irrigated agricultural region (vegetables, grain, cotton, locations with a new one in Simi Valley's new Towne Center. Two more are promised this year, in Long Beach and Vista. Rather than designating its barbecue as being from one specific region, Famous Dave's prefers to label its fare all-American and "real honest." But it does feature St. Louis-style spareribs spare·ribs pl.n. Pork ribs with most of the meat trimmed off. [Alteration of obsolete ribspare, from Low German ribbesper, pickled pork ribs roasted on a spit , Texas brisket brisket the mass of connective tissue and fat covering the anterior part of the chest in ruminants. Lies at the most ventral part of the neck, between the front legs and covering the anterior end of the sternum. and Georgia chopped pork, all three worth trying. Usually I like babybacks better than spareribs, but Dave's kitchen changed my mind. The spareribs come forth bigger and meatier, possibly steamed -- the meat separates easily from the bone. True, the babybacks have a smidgen more flavor, but they're definitely drier and have to be wrenched off the bone, each bite a challenge to the teeth. Ribs and other meat offerings can be ordered in many ways. There are combo plates, sandwiches, third slabs, half slabs and full slabs, even platters ($62.99) supposedly large enough to feed four or five diners. I've had the chopped pork and ribs combo ($17.99), a ribs and chicken combo ($19.99), a brisket and hot link combo ($16.99) and a catfish and ribs lunch platter ($8.99). Not all at the same time of course, and not by myself. (Just ask for a couple of plates and enjoy sharing.) Portioning is, for the most part, generous, though I thought that the fluffy, lightly battered onion strings basket ($7.49), a starter dish, could have been several strings fuller for the price. Chili (cup $2.99, bowl $4.99), though not as beany as expected, has tender, cubed meat, plenty of flavor and a welcome sharp, peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. kick. The house soup (cup $2.99, bowl $4.99), a thick, creamy, chicken, mushroom and wild rice mixture, also surprises in a positive way. Cajun-seasoned catfish ($11.99 or $15.99) comes in strip or filet form, nicely moist inside. Brisket of beef ($13.99), served sliced, lives up to its flavorful, tender promise, and the Georgia chopped pork ($11.99) arrives moistened with barbecue sauce and well seasoned. A huge hot link (12 ounces, $10.99) satisfies, but could be a tad hotter. However, the chicken here ($12.99), available roasted or barbecued, possesses unexpected flavor and juiciness. Sides (one or two usually served per plate order) all get a thumbs-up, except for the overcooked, mushy mush·y adj. mush·i·er, mush·i·est 1. Resembling mush in consistency; soft. 2. Informal a. Excessively sentimental. See Synonyms at sentimental. b. green beans green beans Noun, pl long narrow green beans that are cooked and eaten as a vegetable . And both the pecan pie ($5.99) and bread pudding Bread pudding is a dessert popular in British cuisine and that of the Southern U.S., as well as Belgian and French cuisine. The French refer to it by the English name "pudding" without the word "bread" and the Belgians call it Bodding. ($6.49) desserts, big and shareable, nicely presented, make the endings at Famous Dave's as good as the beginnings. As for surroundings, the whole place resounds with the performances of some of the finest recorded blues artists. And whimsical signs all over the spacious, rustic structure keep customers grinning. Even the barbecue purist pur·ist n. One who practices or urges strict correctness, especially in the use of words. pu·ris  tic adj. will find it hard not to like Dave's
and readily understand his claim to fame.
Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com FAMOUS DAVE'S Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Two and one half stars Where: 1229 Simi Towne Center Way, Simi Valley Simi Valley (sē`mē, sĭm`ē), city (1990 pop. 100,217), Ventura co., SW Calif. in an oil, fruit, and farm region; laid out 1887, inc. 1969. . Phone: (805) 522-7227; www.famousdaves.com Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Food type: American. Cost: Starters (appetizers, soups and salads) from $3 to $11, entrees from $10 to $24, desserts from $4.29 to $6.49. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Yes. Parking/valet: Free self-parking in large lot. Full bar: Yes. Wine/corkage: Minimal list of major brands. Brews on tap include Samuel Adams, Bass and Pyramid wheat. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $8. Music/entertainment: No. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no delivery service. Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served policy. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: In its new Simi Towne Center location, Famous Dave's serves up tasty spareribs, brisket and chopped pork. Alex Collins/ Special to the Daily News |
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