SHE TOOK THE SUIT OFF HIS BACK; MAUREEN MCCORMICK SIZES UP THE NEW MENSWEAR LOOK.

Byline: Story by Barbara De Witt 

There's something about a woman in a suit. She looks smarter, more savvy, and so unlike a guy - even when it's a man-tailored suit with trousers.

Maybe it's the cut of the jacket ... his tie worn rakishly loose around her neck ... or the stilettos instead of wingtips.

Whatever the reason, the look suits her well, say designers, including Ralph Lauren, who flooded his fall fashion shows with smartly tailored pinstriped suits; Donatella Versace, who prefers slim pants in stretchy fabrics with long coats; and Los Angeles designer Trina Turk, who based her beige, no-frills pantsuits on those of the '70s.

But they're not the only ones to resurrect the pantsuit, the brainchild of the '60s unisex revolution.

Numerous designers around the world are putting menswear details on women's suits - to overwhelming applause. Even Mr. Blackwell, who's always ragging on female fashion taste, recently quipped, ``Pinstripes are dynamite on women.''

Penny Collins, head of the fashion department at American Intercontinental University in Westwood, takes a more scholarly approach, but arrives at the same observation.

``Although the menswear look started back in the '30s with Marlene Dietrich and made a comeback in the '70s, this time around it's more flattering to a woman's figure. Designers didn't do a parody, but used key elements of menswear, as well as beautiful fabrics, and re-created the suit in her image - rather than his.''

It's about time, too, Collins adds, as the classic suit has staying power unlike other trends thrown women's way.

The entertainment industry has always had fashion mavericks. From Dietrich to Sharon Stone, actresses have found they get attention in menswear.

Westlake Village actress Maureen McCormick - you knew her as Marcia from TV's ``Brady Bunch'' - also likes suiting up.

``Men love women in men's clothing,'' said McCormick, who's now married, a mom and starring in a new sitcom called ``Teen Angel.'' In a recent photo session at the Daily News, the actress talked about her favorite actresses who marched in history's pants parade. She liked Dietrich's tuxedos and Lauren Bacall's casually elegant American pants stance but didn't like Diane Keaton's baggy ``Annie Hall'' style.

``My favorite? I like the way Katharine Hepburn looks in pants. She makes a don't-mess-with-me statement, yet no one has ever doubted her femininity,'' said McCormick.

A petite size 2, the actress says man-tailored suits can help give you a presence if the proportions are good. ``But don't take the menswear look too seriously - you know, all buttoned up. Take elements of it and play with it, like the striped trousers with a sequined jacket, or the suit jacket without a shirt underneath.''

Suits as men know and wear them aren't the only menswear styles to choose from this season. Designer Tommy Hilfiger used military strategy in his collection, with stretch-twill chinos, military shirts and suede safari jackets worn with five-pocket cargo pants. And he also resurrected the Carnaby Street look of velvet and corduroy pantsuits with vividly colored, pinstriped, button-down shirts.

And stay tuned. Blazers with crests and shoulder pads are on the holiday horizon. Just the thing for those velvet jeans we're seeing in the current retrospective of '80s style in department stores.

While you're in his closet, look around. Black is still basic (and tuxedo looks are a nighttime classic), but gray and navy and brown are the big news for fall, especially when striped in heavy, wide, modern stripes, soft chalk stripes or skinny banker's stripes (named for the lines in a banker's ledger).

Shirts are still white, but rethink also a loud-colored shirt with matching tie. And while you're tying one on, consider those new iridescent ties by Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss.

Other menswear details to add are French cuffs, colorful silk pocket squares (think of an Edwardian dandy), bowler or fedora hats, and top coats with scarves.

CAPTION(S):

15 Photos

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) On the cover: Maureen McCormick, former star of TV's ``Brady Bunch'' and who now stars in the sitcom ``Teen Angel,'' goes for menswear look of gray banker's stripes by Ralph Lauren, $250, with tie by MCIV, $29.50.

(2--Color) Attired for a trip to colder climes, McCormick wears a Ralph Lauren top coat, $425, and suit, $408, accented with scarf by Echo, $28.

(3--Color) McCormick suits up in Ralph Lauren's chalk stripes, $433, with dress shirt by INC, $45, and cardigan by Max Studio, $130.

(4--Color) McCormick dances into the night in a deep-blue sequin jacket by Jones New York, $390, with INC shirt, $45, and Lauren pants, $158.

(5--Color) Former Valley girl McCormick, who now lives in Westlake Village, glitters in a copper-colored tuxedo with matching tube top, all by Laundry, $470, at Macy's.

Photos by Gus Ruelas/Daily News

(6) Brooke Shields in her Calvins

(7) Carole Lombard and pals, 1935

(8) Jackie O

(9) Judy Garland

(10) Lauren Hutton

(11) Marlene Dietrich and suitors, 1932

(12) Ali MacGraw, 1969

(13) Katharine Hepburn

(14) Julie Andrews as ``Victor''

(15) Diane Keaton a la ``Annie Hall''

Christy Turlington wears Ellen Tracy '97