SCENIC INDOCHINE BISTRO HAS ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

It's a noble experiment and it may still work.

But the new Indochine Bistro needs to revise the execution of several of its dishes if it wishes to knock 'em dead in its spectacular ocean view location in Santa Monica, in what was previously Cafe Casino.

With an emphasis on seafood, its kitchen, supposedly manned by high-priced chefs from Hong Kong's classy Regent and Peninsula hotels, perhaps needs to separate its nonfish items a little more carefully from its briny fare.

That's because such creations as a pork noodle dish called ``aromatic pleasure'' ($8.95) has a too-sharp oyster sauce tossed with it that left a much stronger sea taste in the mouth than barbecued pork with ginger and onion seemingly should have.

And dim sum appetizers such as chicken shiu mai ($3.95) and vegetable potstickers called ``quor tehrs'' ($4.95 at lunch) possess obvious flavor of the sea characteristics that hinder rather than enhance.

Conversely, the roasted duck potstickers ($5.95 at lunch, $7.95 at dinner) producing the definitive tastes and textures expected from this bird, are nothing short of superb.

Although touted as all-Asian fare with a French accent, the food leans very much toward China.

Thin stir-fried rice noodles with barbecued pork and egg ($7.95) provided a tasty version of Chinese-style egg chow mai fun one day for lunch. A dinner platter of whole trout in traditional Chinese black bean sauce ($12.95) one evening was photogenic enough to be a Gourmet magazine cover, and just as delightful to eat, but only for a diner with inexhaustible patience.

The main bone had been cut in a way that meant that the entire trout couldn't be easily filleted. One half of the fish - where the bone was easily lifted out - was a singular treat, the other side - where all the little bones were disseminated - turned into a prolonged, laborious endeavor. Eat and pick. Eat and pick. Eat and pick. Great taste, but awfully tiring.

And the Paris-brest dessert, a surprise to find here, had almost none of the puffy, flaky pastry crust and feathery cream and almond paste filling remembered when baked by onetime local chef Marcel Frantz.

But colorful wedges of cake and perfectly sculpted tarts presented to patrons as dessert examples certainly indicate a very professional baking staff at work here.

Indochine Bistro has lots of potential. And yes, it could still be a hit.

THE FACTS The restaurant: Indochine Bistro.

Where: 1299 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica.

When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., for dinner from 4 to 10:30 p.m., to midnight Friday and Saturday.

How much: Starters from $4 to $10, rice and noodle items from $6.25 to $17, entrees from $10 to $23, desserts from $5 to $7. Also fountain items and espresso drinks from $1.75 to $3. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Two and One Half Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Two Stars for wine.