SAY CHEESE U.S. ARTISAN MAKERS COME INTO THEIR OWN.Byline: Food Editor Americans love cheese. We each ate about 30 pounds of it last year. That's up from 27 pounds per person just seven years ago. It used to be that Americans turned to Europe for imports of fine aged Swiss and Gouda. But with the growing American consumption has come a growing industry of American farm and artisan cheesemakers. Artisan cheeses are defined as those handmade in small quantities with respect for the traditions and history of cheesemaking. Farmstead cheeses are artisan-style cheeses made with milk obtained from animals on the farm where the cheese is produced. Many experts compare the American specialty cheesemaking revolution to the California wine boom of the 1970s. This country is now making some of the world's finest World's Finest may refer to:
Fifteen years ago, only a handful of artisan and specialty cheesemakers were found in this country, says Laura Werlin, American cheese expert and author of ``The All American Cheese and Wine Book'' and ``The New American Cheese.'' Today there are some 200 producing more than 600 varieties of cheese. You'll find about 30 of these artisan and farmstead cheesemakers in California making about 200 varieties and styles, says Devereux - and that doesn't include the state's 20 cheesemakers that are mass-producing more familiar cheeses like Monterey Jack Monterey jack n. A pale semisoft cheese with a high moisture content and a mild flavor. [After Monterey + jack (cheese).] , Cheddar and mozzarella moz·za·rel·la n. A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza. [Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, . California is the second-largest cheese producer in the United States United States, officially United States of America, republic (2005 est. pop. 295,734,000), 3,539,227 sq mi (9,166,598 sq km), North America. The United States is the world's third largest country in population and the fourth largest country in area. , following Wisconsin, the largest. However, California produces more artisan cheeses than any other state, says Devereux. Want to have a little fun, explore some wonderful cheeses and educate your palate? Gather a group of friends for an American artisan cheese and wine tasting Noun 1. wine tasting - a gathering of people to taste and compare different wines assemblage, gathering - a group of persons together in one place wine tasting n → degustación f de vinos party. The host/hostess can provide the cheeses and ask friends to contribute a bottle of wine. Refer to the accompanying list for specific wine suggestions. Choose cheeses of different styles, similar or contrasting in texture, flavor and intensity, aged or unaged, from a variety of different American producers and made with cow's, goat's or sheep's milk. While some cheese experts advise including a selection of cheeses you know and like along with one risky cheese with a strong or pungent flavor to grab tasters' attention and spark conversation, others recommend choosing unfamiliar selections. Decide how much cheese to buy and how many cheeses to serve. If cheese is the main focus of the party, and it will be during the dinner hour, plan on 6 to 8 ounces per person, recommends Werlin. If you'll be serving other food, figure on 4 to 6 ounces. Five to eight selections will make a nice display, says Devereux. ``If there are too many cheeses to taste, it will become confusing.'' Shop at a reputable cheese store or a market with a good selection of choices in optimum condition, advises Werlin. Purchase cheeses close to the time you'll be serving them, and have the cheeses cut fresh, if possible. For a party of 15 to 20 people, Werlin suggests offering a fresh cheese (goat cheese), a soft-ripened cheese (Brie); a semi-hard cheese (an English-style Cheddar), a hard cheese (like dry Jack or Parmesan) and perhaps a blue cheese. For another tasting party menu, Geof Ryan, Sherman Oaks-based wine and cheese buyer for the Southern Pacific region of Whole Foods Market, recommends Cypress Grove Cypress Grove is an English singer and guitarist who has worked with Jeffrey Lee Pierce from The Gun Club .He is noted for his attacking vocal delivery and raw guitar sound. Both Nick Cave and Jack White from The White Stripes are said to be admirers. Humboldt Fog Humboldt Fog is a goat milk cheese made by Cypress Grove Chevre, of Arcata, California, in Humboldt County. It is named for the local ocean fog which rolls in from Humboldt bay. Humboldt Fog is a mold ripened cheese. It has a central line of edible ash much like Morbier. (soft-ripened goat's milk cheese Goat's milk cheese, goat cheese or Chèvre cheese is cheese made from goat's milk (chèvre is French for goat). In regions where domesticated goats are kept, many kinds of goat's milk cheeses are produced. layered with a thin band of vegetable ash in the middle; $19.99 per pound), Point Reyes Point Reyes is a prominent cape on the Pacific coast of northern California. It is located in Marin County approximately 30 mi (48 km) WNW of San Francisco. The term is often applied to the Point Reyes Peninsula Farmstead Cheese Co. Original Blue (creamy full-flavored blue, aged six months; $15.99 per pound), Roth Kase USA Gruyere Surchoix (a savory, grainy grain·y adj. grain·i·er, grain·i·est 1. Made of or resembling grain; granular. 2. Resembling the grain of wood. 3. Having a granular appearance due to the clumping of particles in the emulsion. , aged Gruyere; $13.99 per pound), Cowgirl Creamery Cowgirl Creamery is a company located in Point Reyes Station, California which manufactures artisanal cheeses. Founded in 1994, the company both manufactures its own cheeses (including Red Hawk and Mt. Mt. Tam (an organic cow's milk, buttery, rich triple creme with earthy, mushroom flavor; $10.99 for an 8-ounce round) and MyTime Ranch Capricious (a goat's milk, semi-hard cheese, aromatic and intense with grassy and spicy notes; $29.99 per pound). All can be found at area Whole Foods Markets, most of which carry about 100 specialty cheese selections from a dozen countries at any one time. Don't forget to pick up and offer a few other sweet and savory accompaniments such as walnuts, pecans, spiced nuts, marcona almonds (roasted in olive oil olive oil, pale yellow to greenish oil obtained from the pulp of olives by separating the liquids from solids. Olive oil was used in the ancient world for lighting, in the preparation of food, and as an anointing oil for both ritual and cosmetic purposes. ), olives, fresh and dried fruits (figs, apricots, etc.) and even chocolate-dipped candied can·died adj. Permeated, covered, encrusted, or cooked with sugar: candied sweet potatoes. candied Adjective coated with or cooked in sugar: orange peel. Serve the cheeses at room temperature with plain baguette slices and plain crackers. Hard cheeses should be removed from the refrigerator 1 to 1 1/2 hours in advance, while softer cheeses should be removed 30 to 45 minutes before serving, advises Werlin. Arrange unwrapped cheeses on separate trays or wooden boards and use a separate knife for each. Be sure to make signs so guests can identify the cheeses. Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692 natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com Many styles There are seven different styles of cheese based on texture. ``The texture of a cheese will tell you almost everything you need to know about most cheeses without ever tasting them,'' writes Laura Werlin in ``The All American Cheese and Wine Book.'' ``If a cheese is hard, then you can bet it will be fairly salty; if it is a fresh cheese, then it will likely taste like the fresh milk from which it has been made, and so on.'' Fresh cheeses are soft, unripened and not aged. These cheeses are sold within a few days of being made and have a shorter shelf life than others. Examples are fromage blanc, ricotta ri·cot·ta n. 1. A soft Italian cheese that resembles cottage cheese. 2. A similar soft cheese made in the United States. , feta fet·a n. A white semisoft cheese usually made of goat's or ewe's milk and often preserved in brine. [Modern Greek (turi) pheta, (cheese) slice, from Italian fetta, slice , cream cheese, fresh goat cheese, mascarpone mas·car·po·ne n. A fresh soft Italian cheese with a high butterfat content, made from cow's milk enriched with cream. [Italian, augmentative of dialectal mascarpa, whey cheese. and fresh mozzarella (usually sold packed in water). Semi-soft cheeses are usually rindless and have a fairly short shelf life. They include teleme, crescenza and certain styles of Monterey Jack, Colby, havarti, fontina fon·ti·na n. A ripened cheese of variable texture and flavor, originally produced in Italy. [Italian.] , Muenster, Gorgonzola and others. Soft-ripened cheeses get softer and creamier as they ripen rip·en tr. & intr.v. rip·ened, rip·en·ing, rip·ens To make or become ripe or riper; mature. See Synonyms at mature. rip from the outside in. They are distinguished by white, bloomy rinds. Many have distinct flavors, depending on the milk they are made from. They can be buttery, salty, fruity and even tangy. Brie, triple cremes, Camembert and Humboldt Fog are some examples. Semi-hard cheeses are harder than semi-soft cheeses and have less moisture. Longer aging time results in moisture loss creating a harder consistency. Flavors will vary from mild to strong and terms like caramel, nutty, earthy, sharp and fruity are often used to describe them. This category includes Gruyere, Swiss, many Cheddars and more. Hard cheeses have minimal moisture, are aged for a long time (6 to 12 months or even years) and have a hard texture. Many have full, complex flavors and are salty. Some are astringent astringent (əstrĭn`jənt), substance that shrinks body tissues. Astringent medicines cause shrinkage of mucous membranes or exposed tissues and are often used internally to check discharge of serum or mucous secretions in sore throat, and tart, while others are nutty or have caramel or butterscotch but·ter·scotch n. 1. A syrup, sauce, candy, or flavoring made by melting butter and brown sugar together. 2. A golden or tawny brown. overtones. Often you'll find these cheeses are slightly gritty. Some become sweeter and less sharp with age. Examples include dry Jack, aged Cheddar, hard goat cheese, aged goat's milk cheese, Parmesan and aged Gouda. Blue cheeses have distinctive blue veins throughout, and flavors may range from mild and creamy to sharp and salty. Some are hard and crumbly crum·bly adj. crum·bli·er, crum·bli·est Easily crumbled; friable. crum  bli·ness n.Adj. 1. . Washed-rind cheeses get their name from the process used in treating the rinds. They are bacteria-ripened from the outside in. Consumers often shy away from Verb 1. shy away from - avoid having to deal with some unpleasant task; "I shy away from this task" avoid - stay clear from; keep away from; keep out of the way of someone or something; "Her former friends now avoid her" these cheeses, as many are very smelly (``old socks'' has been used to describe them). However, the pungency usually comes from the rind and not the cheese inside. Typically, even the most odoriferous washed rind cheese has a mild flavor if you skip the rind and taste only the inside. Included are Red Hawk (an American Cheese Society winner), Harvest Moon, Angel Feat and Mont St. Francis (an American Cheese Society Winner). - Natalie Haughton Sources: ``The All American Wine and Cheese Book,'' by Laura Werlin, and the California Milk Advisory Board. User's guide If you're wondering what some of those cheeses you're unfamiliar with are like, here's a handy descriptive guide of the more popular ones. ASIAGO - Sold fresh as well as aged. Has a sweet, mild flavor when young and a sharp flavor and firm to very firm texture when aged. Most aged versions are used for grating. BRIE - A white, bloomy-rind, soft-ripened cheese with a rich flavor that deepens with age and a creamy texture that becomes more lush with time. BRIE, TRIPLE CREME - A very rich, soft-ripened bloomy-rind cheese with mild, creamy flavor. BURRATA - Italian-style high-moisture mozzarella ball with a soft, creamy center that is a combination of cream and finely chopped or strung mozzarella curds curd n. 1. The part of milk that coagulates when the milk sours or is treated with enzymes. Curd is used to make cheese. 2. A coagulated liquid that resembles milk curd. intr. & tr.v. . Mild, wonderful flavor. BURRICOTTI - Italian-style high-moisture mozzarella ball stuffed with ricotta; mild and sweet. CRESCENZA - A fresh, creamy, soft-ripened pale yellow cheese with a mild, yeasty yeast·y adj. yeast·i·er, yeast·i·est 1. Of, similar to, or containing yeast: yeasty dough. 2. flavor. Typically aged two to three weeks. CHEVRE - The French word for goat, chevre is a fresh cheese made with pasteurized pas·teur·ize tr.v. pas·teur·ized, pas·teur·iz·ing, pas·teur·iz·es To subject (a beverage or other food) to pasteurization. pas goat's milk. Comes in many shapes such as logs or rounds, or may be sold in tubs. A soft, spreadable cheese usually with mild flavor. CARMODY - A medium-sharp, light yellow, firm, smooth-textured table cheese that also melts well. Typically aged three months. CHEDDAR - Cheddar describes a family of cheeses - very popular and versatile and available in a range of flavors from mild to very or extra sharp and white to yellow to orange in color. COLBY - A pale yellow, semi-firm cheese similar to Cheddar but softer and with a milder flavor. FROMAGE BLANC - A European-style fresh white cheese that can be made with cow's, goat's or sheep's milk. Has a tangy, buttery taste and a consistency between ricotta and sour cream. GOUDA - Of Dutch origin, a mild cheese with a light yellow color, a firm texture and slightly buttery flavor. Aged Goudas can be earthy, somewhat strong and salty. GRUYERE - Originated in the Swiss and French Alps, this cooked-cured brined cheese is aged from 3 to 12 months. Ranges in flavor from mild to medium-strong with nutty, floral and earthy qualities. With its good melting qualities, it is traditionally used in cheese fondue. HAVARTI - A mild, semi-firm, pale yellow cheese with a supple, creamy texture and dotted with tiny ``eyes'' or holes. A good melting cheese. MONTEREY JACK - Originated in California in the mid-1880s, this creamy white, semi-soft cheese has a mild, slightly tangy flavor. Melts well and is often used in cooking. DRY JACK - A Monterey Jack that has been aged at least one year (or longer) to become a hard to very hard grating cheese. Has a golden yellow color and a nutty, slightly sweet mild-to-medium sharp flavor. MASCARPONE - A soft, fresh, white, spreadable cheese (creamier than cream cheese) with a buttery, rich, sweet flavor. Melts well. Traditionally used in tiramisu tir·a·mi·su n. A dessert of cake infused with a liquid such as coffee or rum, layered with a rich cheese filling, and topped with grated chocolate. . MOZZARELLA - A fresh cheese that comes in two forms. The high-moisture form, often called ``fresh mozzarella,'' is typically made with whole milk. It is semi-firm and may be packed in water. Also sold as ``bocconcini Bocconcini (singular Bocconcino) are small, semi-soft, white and rindless unripened mild cheeses which originated in Naples and were once made only from the milk of water buffaloes. Now they are usually made from a combination of water buffalo and cow's milk. ,'' small 1.5-ounce balls of high-moisture mozzarella. The low-moisture form is firm in texture and is made with part-skim milk. It is the type commonly used for pizza. MUENSTER - Pale yellow, semi-firm cheese with a creamy washed rind and a smooth and mildly piquant flavor. MT. TAM - A white triple-creme, bloomy rind table cheese that does not soften with age, as does Brie. Aged four to five weeks. Mild and rich flavor with hints of mushroom. RED HAWK - A triple-creme cheese similar to Mt. Tam. Washed with a brine solution, which creates a red-orange rind (interior is white) for a more robust flavor and near runny run·ny adj. run·ni·er, run·ni·est Inclined to run or flow: runny icing; a runny nose. runny Adjective [-nier, -niest texture. TELEME - A very soft white cheese at room temperature. Large pieces may have rice flour crust. Mild, slightly tangy flavor. - Natalie Haughton Sources: California Milk Advisory Board and ``The All American Cheese and Wine Book,'' by Laura Werlin. Pick the right wine In a quandary about a good wine to serve with cheese? Try some of these picks (750-milliliter bottles) suggested by Doug Beagle of the Duke of Bourbon Duke of Bourbon (French: Duc de Bourbon) is a title in the peerage of France. It was created in the first half of the 14th century for the eldest son of Robert of France, Count of Clermont and Beatrice of Burgundy, heiress of the lordship of Bourbon. , Canoga Park, and Geof Ryan, the wine and cheese buyer for Whole Foods Market, Southern Pacific region. $10 or less Echelon 2000 Syrah, California; $5.99 - Ripe berry aromas and medium body. Pair with Mt. Tam, fresh cheeses and mild-aged cheeses. Available at Whole Foods Markets and elsewhere. Jepson 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino; $6.99 - Steely and crisp; complements goat cheeses. Available at Whole Foods Markets and elsewhere. Hawk Crest 2002 Chardonnay, California; $7.99 - Has aroma of white peach, pear and orange blossom. Wine has a bright and silky acidity vibrant with green apple, quince quince, shrub or small tree of the Asian genera Chaenomeles and Cydonia of the family Rosaceae (rose family). The common quince (Cydonia oblonga and peach notes; oak finish. Terrific with a wide range of soft cheeses such as Brie, Camembert or Port Salut. Available at Duke of Bourbon and elsewhere. Hawk Crest 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, California; $9.99 - Garnet color with rich aromas of vanilla, cedar and plum. Smooth and graceful structure adorned with vanilla, Bing cherry and black plum; lingering hint of cedar finish. Pairs nicely with Cheddar, hard and veined cheeses. Available at Duke of Bourbon and elsewhere. Ca Vesta 1999 Fiamma, Mendocino Red Table Wine; $9.99 - A California blend of Italian-style varietals. Spicy, jammy, juicy. Works well with soft-ripened and pungent (blue) cheeses. Available at Whole Foods Markets and elsewhere. $20 or less Fess Parker 2002 White Riesling, Santa Barbara County; $13.99 - Nose has peach, floral, apricot and pineapple elements. A slightly sweet white wine with a balanced, bracing acidity; enjoy with a wide array of foods. Best served slightly chilled. Rich fruit flavors make this a good match for soft white/yellow cheeses such as Muenster. Available at Duke of Bourbon and elsewhere. William Knuttel 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley; $14.99 - Concentrated ripe cherry fruit-laden wine of medium to full body. Great with aged cheeses like Gruyere. Available at Whole Foods Markets and elsewhere. Wild Horse 2001 Merlot, Paso Robles Robles is a common surname in the Spanish language meaning oaks, and may refer to:
n See wild cherry. black cherry prunusserotina. , blueberry blueberry, plant of the large genus Vaccinium, widely distributed shrubs (occasionally small trees) of the family Ericaceae (heath family), usually found on acid soil. They are often confused with the related huckleberry. , cedar and toasted oak. Flavors of mocha Mocha (mō`kə), town (1990 est. pop. 2,000), S Yemen, a port on the Red Sea. It was noted for the export of the coffee to which it gave its name but declined as a trading port in the late 19th cent. with the rise of Hodeida and Aden. and dark fruit dominate the palate, leading to a long satisfying finish. Good companion for aged or veined cheeses. Think Stilton! Available at Duke of Bourbon and elsewhere. Winning pairs of wine and cheese In a dilemma? Here are some of Laura Werlin's cheese and wine pairing suggestions from her book ``The All American Cheese and Wine Book.'' Use them as guidelines and clues and be flexible. Fresh goat cheese - Sauvignon blanc, semillon or pinot gris Fresh mozzarella - Chenin blanc or sangiovese Fromage blanc (cow's milk) - Pinot gris Teleme - Chardonnay (light-bodied; no oak), chenin blanc, late-harvest muscat Muscat, Maskat, or Masqat (all: mŭs`kăt, mŭs`kət), city (1993 pop. 533,774), capital of Oman, SE Arabia, on the Gulf of Oman. It is flanked by rugged mountains. , riesling, viognier Crescenza - Chardonnay (light-bodied; no oak), chenin blanc, late-harvest moscato Moscato can have several meanings see:
Colby - Riesling, barbera, dolcetto, pinot noir Gouda - Chardonnay, chenin blanc, riesling, dolcetto, zinfandel (light-to-medium-bodied; fruity) Fontina, Havarti and Muenster - Riesling, barbera, dolcetto Monterey Jack - Chardonnay, riesling, zinfandel (light-to-medium-bodied; fruity) Brie - Sparkling wine, chardonnay, pinot noir Camembert (cow's milk) - Sparkling wine, chardonnay, pinot noir Triple Creme - Sparkling wine, chardonnay, pinot noir Slightly aged soft-ripened goat cheeses - Sauvignon blanc, sangiovese, pinot noir, light-bodied merlot, light-to-medium-bodied cabernet sauvignon Cheddar (not sharp) - Gewurztraminer, late-harvest riesling, viognier, zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon (light-to-medium-bodied), sherry Cheddar (sharp) - Grenache, merlot, zinfandel, late-harvest gewurztraminer Gruyere - Gewurztraminer, late-harvest riesling, viognier, zinfandel, sherry All washed-rind cheeses - Gewurztraminer, late-harvest gewurztraminer, muscat, pinot noir, riesling, vignoles, zinfandel (medium-bodied, fruity), cream sherry Asiago, Parmesan and many artisan cow's, sheep's and goat's milk cheeses - Gewurztraminer, riesling, sangiovese, sherry, sparkling wine Soft, creamy, and young blue cheese, such as Gorgonzola - Riesling, gewurztraminer, sherry (dry) Firmer, more pungent blue cheese - Riesling, gewurztraminer, late-harvest riesling, late-harvest orange muscat or muscat canelli, sparkling wine (brut Brut, Brute (both: br  t), or Brutus (br , blanc de noirs Blanc de noirs is a French term (literally "white of blacks") for a white wine produced entirely from black grapes. It is often encountered in Champagne, where a number of houses have followed the lead of Bollinger's prestige cuvée or brut rose) Semi-hard blue cheese - Cabernet sauvignon (older), merlot (older), sherry (medium-dry or cream), late-harvest riesling, late-harvest orange muscat or muscat canelli, sparkling wine (brut, blanc de noirs or brut rose) CAPTION(S): 4 photos, 4 boxes Photo: (1 -- cover -- color) American cheese now more sophisticated than you might think (2 -- 3 -- color) no caption (different cheeses) (4) no caption (Wild Horse wine) Box: (1) Many styles (see text) (2) User's guide (see text) (3) Pick the right wine (see text) (4) Winning pairings of wines and cheeses (see text) |
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