SAUCY SENIOR GRANDPA FRED'S OFFERS PLENTY OF BARBECUE VALUE ... BUT NO PORK.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

NO DISHWASHING is done - at least of customers' plates and cutlery - at the new Grandpa Fred's Bar-B-Que, seemingly operating out of a side door at the former La Paz site in Woodland Hills.

That's because all the food comes forth in compartmentalized plastic containers ready for takeout, even if you're seated in the small, 40-seat, no-frills dining room.

Don't expect a steak knife to cut the meat. What you get is a little cellophane-wrapped package containing a small plastic knife and fork along with a paper napkin.

All this disposable stuff helps in keeping the prices down to a minimum. So does the ordering process, which involves dish decisions and payment in advance at a kiosk-like arrangement in the foyer area.

But the biggest surprise is the large ``no pork'' announcement on the menu. So babyback rib fanciers, forget it. It's barbecued beef ribs, beef steaks or chicken here. That's basically it on the barbecue meats. So you'll have to get your pork elsewhere.

For the veggie folks there's a marinated, grilled portobello mushroom and several other vegetable plates.

Actually, all the meats (steak, prime rib, tri-tip and chicken) tried to date are, for the most part, believe it or not, tender enough to cut with those silly little plastic knives.

But where there's a bit of sinew here and there, it's best to just pull (or cut) it aside and eat the remaining non-sinuous meat.

Some people may want their barbecue sauce on the side because, on occasion, the kitchen smothers the meats in sauce.

Personally, I prefer more sauce than less, so the smothering doesn't bother me much.

Also, the kitchen will make it as spicy-hot as you wish.

If you want to test your teeth, a quartet of huge beef ribs ($7) can be had after 4 p.m. As with most main course items here, they come with two of Grandpa Fred's respectable sides (corn on the cob, a beany chili, macaroni and cheese, potato salad, coleslaw, collard greens or corn bread).

You'll never go hungry here because the portions range from large to extra large.

I was absolutely amazed at the amount of tender filet mignon I received one evening on the sliced mignon plate ($7) that I accompanied with spicy hot chili and a big cube of corn bread.

A meal like this leaves barely enough room for one of Grandpa's good cobblers ($2.50) or pies ($2).

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

GRANDPA FRED'S BAR-B-QUE

Food: Three stars - Service: Two stars - Value: Three and one half stars

Where: 21040 Victory Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Hours: Open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays (or later, especially on Thursdays and Fridays according to customer demand), from 5 to 11 p.m. Saturdays.

Recommended items: Arkansas cheese steak sandwich, filet mignon, prime rib, tri-tip, chicken breast, Georgia peach cobbler, sweet potato pie.

How much: Everything $10 or less except a la carte, 1-pound orders of chicken, steak or portobello mushroom ($11.50 to $18).

Wine list: No alcohol. All major credit cards accepted.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Call [phone] for take-out orders or information.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) The plates may be plastic, but they're loaded at Grandpa Fred's Bar-B-Que, where grilled chicken breast, top, features plenty of extras. Above, manager Nancy Dziabczenko, left, and executive chef Lisa Sapp keep the food coming.

Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News