SANDWICH IN SOME NEW FAVORITES; TRANSFORM AN ALL-TIME CLASSIC WITH SLICES OF CREATIVITY.

Byline: Staff and Wire Services

When it comes to sandwiches these days, ``Anything goes, as long as it tastes good,'' writes Sheila Lukins in her ``U.S.A. Cookbook.''

In this country, the typical sandwich is a mile-high combination of bread spread with butter, mayo or mustard and topped with meat, cheese and assorted vegetables, including sliced tomatoes, onions and lettuce and then another piece of bread. And then there are the old comforting regional standbys like the Po' Boy, the Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich, the Reuben, the Hero, Submarine, Dagwood, Hoagie or Muffuletta, the Club, the patty melts and grilled cheese sandwiches.

But the typical sandwich keeps on changing as the basic elements are altered and newfangled combinations are sandwiched together.

Accessories can range from salsas and chutneys to pestos of all kinds, spreads, guacamole, savory jellies, nuts, mustard aioli, capers, imported olives and much more. And fillings can run the gamut from roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, green chiles and grilled veggies to smoked chicken, specialty salamis and meats, sophisticated cheeses such as brie, gorgonzola and feta and fresh grilled fish like salmon and halibut and much more. Even Caesar salads with or without chicken are wedged between bread or rolls nowadays. Innovation is only limited by the cook's imagination.

Sandwich-makers are also taking tips and ethnic inspirations gleaned from travels around the world - and that's especially true when it comes to bread choices.

With the exposure and increased availability of flatbreads such as pita bread, tortillas, focaccia and lavash, the American sandwich has been transformed. No longer are bread choices limited to white, wheat, rye, sourdough and soggy. Artisanal and ethnic bakers are producing excellent breads that make wonderfully textured sandwiches.

You can use flour tortillas, which come in an array of flavors now - among them tomato and spinach - for stuffing or wrapping because they roll easily into self-contained packages. Although it's not necessary to heat the tortillas before using, it does bring out their flavor and makes them more pliable. You can heat tortillas by stacking them between two damp paper towels and microwaving for about 10 seconds each.

To fill pita bread, the traditional pocket bread from eastern Mediterranean countries, simply cut a thin strip from the top of the pita or cut in halves. Use an array of filling mixtures - tuna, salads, tomatoes, bacon, yogurt, chicken salad with grapes and almonds, hummus and salad ingredients - or whatever strikes your mood. Keep in mind that bread dries out quickly, so store in the refrigerator, or freeze for later use.

Lavash, which has it origins in Armenia, also makes a great substitute for bread. It's pliable enough to roll without heating. To fill, lay the fillings in a thick horizontal strip about a third of the way up, then roll. Or scatter the fillings over the lavash, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge before rolling up.

Focaccia, the thin, chewy bread of Italy, can be found flavored with herbs, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions and more. Look for it at specialty stores and bakeries, even those in supermarkets. Depending on the thickness of the bread, you can stack two pieces, or slit one piece in half and fill. Toast the bread pieces before filling, if desired. Since it's so hearty, it's a good choice for vinaigrette-dressed fillings, vegetables or meats that can soak into the bread. As the zesty flavors of the fillings are absorbed, the bread softens but still holds its shapes.

On a recent trip to Italy, a favorite lunch was a smooshed or pressed sandwich made of meat and/or cheeses and fresh herbs that was heated in a grill or sandwich press (waffle-iron style but with smooth, flat plates). The cheese was warm and melty - and so delicious. You'll find these offerings at the autogrills sprinkled along the autostradas or highways. Be sure to stop and try them.

Italians call these creations panini - and the choices of ingredient combinations are numerous - ranging from salamis, mortadella and prosciutto to mozzarella and basil and tomatoes, eggplant and much more. You'll also find them in cafes, bars and shops throughout Italy. You can purchase them premade or in some instances, they'll make them to order as requested by diners.

Panini are now popular at Italian restaurants here and on menus throughout this country. Panini literally translates to ``little breads.'' Panini tend to be simpler and more rustic and interesting than boring run-of-the-mill American sandwiches like peanut butter and jelly and tuna salad.

Cookbook author Julia della Croce, who grew up in an Italian family in New York, remembers being sent to school with a panino for lunch - a thin frittata (Italian omelette) placed between two pieces of bread.

``I'd eat it in the girls room because I was embarrassed I didn't have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. But I really loved those panini. I didn't want PB&J,'' she says.

In her book, ``Unplugged Kitchen'' Viana La Place, writes that ``Various savory condiments make extraordinary panini fillings. Spoon some eggplant and pear caponata into a roll for a delicious, satisfying lunch. Homemade chunky artichoke spread, layered between slices of bread is equally fine-tasting.''

La Place is also a fan of green olive panini, tomato and oregano panini and monster mushroom panini made with portobello mushrooms.

Updated combinations and ingredients can elevate the humble American sandwich to something special and fabulous for now and the millennium. Try these recipes for starters.

GRILLED CHICKEN TORTILLAS WITH CHARRED TOMATO SALSA 

CHARRED TOMATO SALSA:

Olive oil spray

3 large ripe tomatoes, cored

1/3 cup minced white onion

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons tequila (optional)

3 tablespoons lime juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup minced cilantro

CHICKEN:

2 boneless and skinless chicken breast halves

4 large flour tortillas

2/3 cup nonfat refried beans

1 avocado, peeled and sliced

1 cup shredded Jack cheese

For Charred Tomato Salsa, spray a small baking dish with olive oil spray. Put tomatoes into dish. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 20 minutes, until skins start to blacken and tomatoes are very soft. Cool.

Put tomatoes, onion, garlic and jalapeno into a food processor and process until fairly smooth. Add tequila, lime juice, salt and cilantro. Refrigerate until ready to use. (Salsa can be made a day in advance; store in refrigerator.)

For Chicken, place breasts in a dish and cover with 1/2 cup salsa. (Reserve remaining salsa in refrigerator.) Marinate chicken at least 1 hour in refrigerator.

Spray a nonstick grill pan with olive oil spray and place over medium heat. Scrape 1/2 cup marinade from chicken and discard. When pan is hot, add chicken and cook about 5 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Cool, then slice thinly.

Put each tortilla into a hot dry skillet about 7 seconds on each side. Or stack tortillas between 2 damp paper towels and microwave about 10 seconds per tortilla. (Wrap tortillas in a clean kitchen towel after heating to keep pliable.) Spread with refried beans. Top with chicken, avocado and cheese. Dot some of refrigerated salsa on top. Roll tortillas, tucking in sides as you go. Wrap well in foil and refrigerate. Makes 4 filled tortillas.

NOTE: Bottled salsa can replace Charred Tomato Salsa.

From ``The El Paso Chili Company Margarita Cookbook'' by W. Park Kerr.

PITA STUFFED WITH HUMMUS AND TOMATO-CUCUMBER RELISH

RELISH:

2 tomatoes, seeded and diced

1 cup peeled, seeded and diced cucumber

1 medium clove garlic, forced through a press OR very finely minced

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons pine nuts, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup pitted, coarsely chopped Kalamata olives

1/2 cup crumbled garlic-and-herb feta

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

PITAS:

4 pita breads

1 cup prepared hummus

1 1/2 cups torn romaine leaves

For Relish, in a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, cucumber, garlic, shallot, pine nuts, lemon juice, olive oil, olives, feta and pepper. (Can be made 2 hours in advance and refrigerated.)

For Pitas, split breads in halves and open pockets. Spoon and spread 2 tablespoons hummus into each half and fill with relish and romaine. Wrap in foil and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 8 pita halves.

Adapted from ``Caprial's Soups and Sandwiches'' by Caprial Pence and Mark Dowers.

FOCACCIA STUFFED WITH TURKEY, PROVOLONE AND TOMATO JAM

JAM:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/3 cup thinly sliced shallots

1 medium clove garlic, minced

3 tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly crushed

2 tablespoons sun-dried tomato pesto

FOCACCIA:

1 (1-pound) round focaccia, split in halves

6 ounces sliced cooked turkey

6 thin slices provolone cheese

1 medium yellow OR red tomato, sliced

1 cup basil OR torn romaine leaves

For Jam, heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic; saute 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, vinegar, brown sugar, salt and cumin seeds. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes, stirring often, until thickened.

Remove from heat and stir in pesto. Transfer to a bowl and cool. Then, refrigerate until chilled.

For Focaccia, spread each half with tomato jam. Layer turkey, cheese, tomato and basil on bottom half and replace top half. Cut focaccia into quarters and wrap in foil. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 4 servings.

Adapted from ``Caprial's Soups and Sandwiches'' by Caprial Pence and Mark Dowers.

ROASTED PORK STUFFED FOCACCIA WITH PECAN CREAM CHEESE AND NECTARINES

PORK:

1/2 cup peach chutney 

2 teaspoons grainy mustard OR country-style Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 (3/4-pound) pork tenderloin

1/8 teaspoon salt

PECAN CREAM CHEESE:

1/3 cup chopped pecans

3 ounces softened light cream cheese

1 tablespoon peach chutney

1 tablespoon lemon juice

FOCACCIA:

1 (1-pound) round focaccia bread, split in halves

1 ripe nectarine, cut into very thin slices

1/4 cup peach chutney

For Pork, stir together chutney, mustard, lemon juice and pepper. Place tenderloin in a foil-lined baking pan. Spread with 1/2 chutney mixture and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Roast in preheated 350-degree oven about 50 minutes or until cooked through. (Internal temperature should be 160 degrees F.)

Remove from oven and cool. Then cut pork into slices, pulling into shreds. Put into a bowl and add remaining chutney mixture, stirring until mixed.

For Pecan Cream Cheese, put pecans, cream cheese, chutney and lemon juice into a bowl and mix with a fork until completely blended.

For Focaccia, spread bottom half of focaccia with cream cheese. Arrange pork on top, followed by slices of nectarines. Dot cut side of top of focaccia with chutney and place on top of filling, pressing down lightly. Cut into quarters and wrap well in foil. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 4 servings.

Adapted from ``Caprial's Soups and Sandwiches'' by Caprial Pence and Mark Dowers.

POWER CLUB

3 slices whole-wheat bread, toasted

1 tablespoon fat-free mayonnaise

1 teaspoon mustard

1 ounce (about 18 leaves) packaged spinach leaves

4 tomato slices

1/2 cup packaged shredded carrots

1 slice (1 ounce) Cheddar cheese

1/4 cup sliced, fresh mushrooms

1/4 cup alfalfa sprouts OR any salad sprouts

Cut off crust from toasted bread. Spread equal amounts of mayonnaise and mustard on one side of each piece of bread. Cover 1 bread slice with about 9 spinach leaves, 2 slices tomatoes and carrots.

Place second slice of bread on top of carrots and cover with remaining spinach leaves, Cheddar cheese, tomato slices, mushrooms and sprouts.

Place third slice of bread on top of sprouts with spread side down. Cut sandwich diagonally in half.

Serve with fresh fruit in season. Makes 1 sandwich, 2 servings.

FRESH MUSHROOM, BLACK BEAN AND GREEN CHILE MELT

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces fresh white mushrooms, sliced (about 2 1/2 cups)

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 loaf Italian bread (8 to 10 ounces) OR 4 individual Italian rolls

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, drained, rinsed and lightly crushed

1 can (4 ounces) diced mild green chiles, drained

1/4 cup chunky, mild OR medium salsa

2 cups (8 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack cheese 

In a large skillet, over medium-high heat, heat oil until hot. Add mushrooms and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushroom liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes.

Cut bread in half horizontally. Scoop out center, leaving a 1/2-inch thick shell. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine black beans, green chiles and salsa. Sprinkle about 1/2 of cheese over bottom half of bread. Spoon about 1/2 of mushroom mixture over cheese. Spread bean mixture over mushrooms; top with remaining mushrooms, then remaining cheese.

Gently press top of bread over filling; wrap tightly in foil.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes or until heated through and cheese has melted. Remove from foil and cut loaf into quarters. Serve with mixed greens and fruit, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

GRILLED STEAK SANDWICH WITH MUSHROOM SPREAD

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

8 ounces white mushrooms, finely chopped (about 2 cups)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon thyme leaves, crushed

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

8 slices sourdough OR crusty Italian bread

8 ounces grilled steak (about 12 slices) OR boneless chicken breast

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

2 cups trimmed arugula OR spinach leaves

In a large skillet, over medium-high heat, heat butter until hot. Add chopped onion and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add mushrooms. Cook and stir until browned and liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in salt, thyme and pepper.

Spread each slice of bread with about 2 tablespoons mushroom mixture.

Top 4 slices with steak, red onion and arugula, dividing evenly. Cover with remaining bread slices. Makes 4 servings.

REALLY THICK CHICKEN REUBEN

1 whole skinless, boneless chicken breast, halved lengthwise 

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 slices rye OR peasant bread

2 tablespoons thousand island dressing 

1/4 cup sauerkraut, drained

1/2 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and sliced lengthwise

2 slices (about 2 ounces) Monterey Jack cheese

Preheat broiler.

Lay chicken breast on one side of a long sheet of wax paper, spreading out chicken breast. Fold wax paper over to cover chicken, and using a rolling pin or flat side of a chef's knife, flatten breast to about 1/4-inch thick. Brush chicken with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Broil chicken breast, about 3 inches from high heat, until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Set aside.

Working on a fresh sheet of wax paper, spread butter on one side of each slice of bread. Turn slices over and spread other side with thousand island dressing.

Lay chicken breast over dressing on 2 slices of bread. Cover chicken evenly with sauerkraut, avocado slices and cheese. Lay remaining 2 slices of bread over cheese, dressing side down. Using wax paper, press down on sandwich to flatten lightly.

Remove sandwiches from wax paper. Cook in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until bread is golden brown and cheese has melted, about 3 minutes per side.

Cut in half and serve immediately. Makes 2 servings.

From ``Sheila Lukins U.S.A. Cookbook,'' Workman.

MY HERO

Depending on where your hero hails from, the stack of fillings between the bread will vary in type and amount.

1 Italian OR French roll, 7 to 8 inches long

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

16 arugula leaves

1 ripe plum tomato

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

3 slices (4 ounces) mozzarella cheese (about 1/8-inch thick)

4 whole fresh basil leaves, rinsed and patted dry

2 thin slices (2 ounces) prosciutto di Parma

4 thin slices (1 ounce) Genoa salami

Slice bread horizontally and scoop out some of center. Brush each cut side of bread with 1 teaspoon olive oil.

Remove and discard tough stems from arugula. Rinse leaves, pat dry and place in a bowl.

Halve tomato lengthwise. Scoop out and discard seeds. Cut halves lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips. Add to arugula and toss with remaining tablespoon olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.

Layer bottom half of roll with cheese, basil leaves, prosciutto and salami. Top with salad. Cover with top half of roll, cut in half on diagonal. Makes 1 serving.

From ``Sheila Lukins U.S.A. Cookbook,'' Workman.

VINEGARED EGGPLANT PANINO

On a warm day, this sandwich is particularly refreshing when the filling comes straight out of the refrigerator.

1 (1-pound) eggplant

Water

Fine sea salt

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon dried Mediterranean oregano, such as Greek oregano

2 to 3 rustic bread rolls

Cut eggplant into medium chunks. Cover with water, add salt and bring to a boil. As eggplant cooks, push down into water several times or lay a large Chinese strainer over top to keep eggplant immersed. After 5 to 10 minutes, or when eggplant is just tender (a thin wooden skewer that meets with no resistance is the test), drain well. Wrap eggplant in several layers of tea towels to absorb excess water and let drain several hours.

Place eggplant in a bowl and add remaining ingredients except rolls, adding salt to taste. Lightly mash eggplant with a fork to help absorb seasonings. Let mellow several hours at room temperature or refrigerate 1 to 2 days. Serve in rolls. Makes 2 to 3 servings.

From ``Unplugged Kitchen'' by Viana La Place, William Morrow.

GRILLED MOZZARELLA PANINI

1/2 cup creamy Italian dressing

12 slices Italian bread

12 slices (6 ounces) mozzarella cheese

1 jar (7 ounces) roasted red peppers, drained

6 thin slices sweet onion

1 package (10 ounces) frozen asparagus spears, thawed and drained, OR fresh asparagus, cooked and divided into 6 portions

Preheat a griddle or large skillet to medium-low heat.

Spread dressing over both sides of each bread slice.

Layer 6 bread slices with 1 slice mozzarella, roasted peppers, 1 slice onion, 1 portion asparagus spears and another cheese slice.

Top with remaining bread slices.

Cook 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden and cheese is melted. Makes 6 servings.

SOUTH-OF-THE-BORDER GRILLED CHEESE AND SALSA SANDWICHES

8 (1/4-inch) thick slices cut from a crusty loaf of sourdough bread

7 to 8 ounces plain Havarti cheese, Monterey Jack OR mild white Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced

1/2 to 3/4 cup good quality store-bought fresh tomato salsa, drained and at room temperature

1/4 cup fresh cilantro sprigs

Tortilla chips for garnish (optional)

Spray a large, heavy or cast-iron skillet or a griddle generously with nonstick olive oil cooking spray and place over medium heat. When hot, add 4 bread slices and toast just until lightly browned, then turn.

Arrange 1/2 of cheese on 2 bread slices and watch carefully until cheese starts to melt, about 1 minute or more. Top with 2 tablespoons salsa and several cilantro sprigs and then with 2 bread slices remaining in skillet.

Cook sandwiches only about 1 minute more, until cheese melts and salsa is heated through. Remove and keep warm while preparing remaining 2 sandwiches.

Slice sandwiches on diagonal. Serve with tortilla chips. Makes 4 servings.

From ``American Favorites'' by Betty Rosbottom.

GRILLED DUTCH DELI TREAT

2 teaspoons margarine OR butter

4 slices marbled rye OR other rye bread

2 to 4 ounces smoked Gouda cheese

Sliced fresh mushrooms

2 to 4 teaspoons green peppercorn OR Dijon mustard

Spread margarine on one side of each slice of bread.

Divide remaining ingredients evenly and place between bread slices with no margarine.

In a large skillet or on a griddle, cook sandwiches over medium-high heat 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cheese is melted and bread is golden brown. If necessary, to prevent overbrowning reduce heat to medium, or brush on extra margarine or butter. Makes 2 servings.

Adapted from Better Homes and Gardens.

FOCACCIA FORMAGGIO

2 teaspoons margarine, butter OR olive oil

2 wedges focaccia (about 1-inch thick), split in half horizontally

4 slices provolone cheese

6 to 8 fresh spinach leaves, rinsed and patted dry

2 tablespoons finely crumbled cooked bacon OR finely crumbled cooked turkey bacon

Spread margarine on one side of each slice of focaccia.

Divide remaining ingredients evenly and place between focaccia slices with no margarine.

In a large skillet or on a griddle, cook sandwiches over medium-high heat 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until cheese is melted and bread is golden brown. If necessary to prevent overbrowning, reduce heat to medium, or brush on extra margarine, butter or olive oil.

If using thin focaccia, use 4 wedges without splitting in half horizontally. Makes 2 servings.

Adapted from Better Homes and Gardens.

GRILLED BLUE AND BRIE

4 tablespoons hot pepper jelly

8 slices pumpernickel OR rye bread

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

1/2 cup chopped macadamia nuts

6 ounces Brie cheese, cut into 8 slices

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, softened

Spread 1 tablespoon jelly over 4 slices bread. Top each with 2 tablespoons blue cheese, 2 tablespoons nuts and 2 slices Brie.

Place remaining slices of bread on top. Spread butter evenly over top and bottom of each sandwich.

Preheat a large skillet or griddle over low heat.

Cook sandwiches, in batches if necessary, 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until browned and cheese is melted. Makes 4 servings.

This recipe was a grand prize winner in Mr. Food's ``Behold the Power of Grilled Cheese'' recipe contest.

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos

Photo: (1--3--Color) Focaccia Stuffed With Turkey, Provolone and Tomato Jam, top center, and Hummus and Tomato-Cucumber Relish, above, to be stuffed into pita bread are two ethnic-inspired sandwich creations. For something delicious, whip up an Italian panini, left, with focaccia, fresh basil and meats and cheeses or whatever strikes your mood. A non-traditional club sandwich, the Power Club, is packed with spinach, tomato, carrots, Cheddar cheese, mushrooms and alfalfa sprouts.

Greg Gilbert/Seattle Times

Susan Stocker/Florida Sun-Sentinel

(4) Hearty Fresh Mushroom, Black Bean and Green Chile Melt is a bite above your everyday sandwich.