SAN ANDRES SERVES HEAPING HELPINGS OF LATIN FLAVOR.Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic San Andres started out with a sign indicating it would be Caribbean. But the replacement for Zach's Italian Kitchen, which moved down the street in Studio City to the former site of Mary's Lamb and the Deauville Deauville (dōvēl`), town (1993 est. pop. 4,380), Calvados dept., N France, on the English Channel. A fashionable resort, it has a famous racecourse and a gambling casino. Tourism has increased due to the construction of the Paris-Normandie motorway, as well as the expansion of nearby Beauxville airport., turned out to be Peruvian and Columbian. Its latest sign describes it as having "Latin taste." Those tastes turn out to be hearty, heaping plates of food, often possessing generous portions of rice, potato, chicharron and plantain plantain (plăn`tĭn), any plant of the genus Plantago, chiefly annual or perennial weeds of wide distribution. Many species are lawn pests and the pollen is often a hay fever irritant. P.. There are Peruvian appetizers such as ceviche de pescado ($8), a sharing-size offering of marinated red snapper red snapper snapper, name for members of the Lutianidae, a family of spiny-finned food and game fishes found chiefly in tropical coastal waters. Snappers are carnivorous, active, and voracious, with large mouths and sharp teeth. Most species travel in dense schools. Best known is the red snapper, an important food fish. It is abundant in the Gulf of Mexico and also frequents the Atlantic Coast north to Long Island.: see snapper. with lime, corn, potatoes, onion and lettuce, or the traditional papa a la huancaina ($3.75) of sliced, cold, boiled potatoes with a light cheese mayonnaiselike dressing. Bowls of soup are rich with a variety of ingredients. They range from a satisfying tomato and seafood soup called parihuela ($9.50) filled with shrimp, squid, mussels, octopus, fish and a crab leg, to a "minute" soup ($4.50) made with either beef or chicken stock, onions, tomatoes and spaghetti noodles. Spaghetti (tallarines), in fact, provides a whole segment of the menu, coupled with different shellfish. You'll find respectable empanadas ($4 for four), mixed meat (paisa, $8.50), breaded pork loin loin (loin) the part of the back between the thorax and pelvis. loin (loin) n. ($8), lomo saltado (beef strips with onions and tomato, $6.50), chicken in criolla sauce (like a cacciatore, $7) and numerous adventures from dishes with blood sausage (morcilla) to lengua (beef tongue). The part of the body on either side of the spinal column between the ribs and the pelvis. The kitchen makes a delicate steamed snapper with tomatoes, onions and white wine ($7.50) called pescado sudado. However, many of the meats tend to be, at best, slightly chewy. But you can't go wrong at these prices: Nothing is over $12. And that usually includes rice, a hard corn cake, steamed or fried yuca YUCA - Young Upscale Cuban American YUCA - Young, Upwardly-mobile, Cuban-American YUCA - Youth United for Community Action (cassava cassava (kəsä`və) or manioc (măn`ēŏk), name for many species of the genus Manihot of the family Euphorbiaceae (spurge family).) and plaintains. And a fine flan for dessert is only $2. THE FACTS The restaurant: San Andres. Where: 11056 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Recommended items: Empanadas, ceviche, papa a la huancaina (cold potato salad), pescado sudado (steamed fish), parihuela (tomato seafood soup), chuleta de cerdo empanizada (pork loin), lomo saltado (beef strips with onions and tomatoes), flan. How much: Appetizers from $2 to $8, entrees from $6.50 to $12, desserts from $1.50 to $2.50. No alcohol (license pending). Major credit cards. Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 761-5447. Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service. |
|
||||||||||||||||||
Printer friendly
Cite/link
Email
Feedback
Reader Opinion