SACK IT TO ME.

Without fail, every season the arrival of shad is celebrated along the Eastern Seaboard. From Florida, through the Carolinas, beyond Philly, and into Connecticut, generations of north easterners cheer the running of shad. Native American tribes honored the arrival of spring's ambassador with feasts of wooden planked shad roasted over open fires. Today, the majority of culinarians consider this obscure fish and its roe sacs an acquired taste--that's polite for 'gross.' To others, it is a rare delicacy to be enjoyed during the few weeks it is in season. In the 1800s shad was big business for freshwater fishermen who hauled in enormous nets bulging with thousands of wiggling silver bodies. Gradually shad numbers began to diminish until, in the 1940s, polluted waters near Philadelphia threatened to cease the migration of juveniles trying to make their way out to sea. Today, thanks to cleanup efforts and fishing regulations, the shad population has slowly restored itself. To some this is a welcomed return, to othe rs, the question still remains, why cook shad at all? Equally as mysterious, is the skill that is required to fillet the flesh through the network of bones.

SHAD SAUTE

Whether or not you eat it, shad is a challenging fish. Those who do love it know that a perfectly cooked roe is a culinary feat. Those who cook it know boning shad is equally as impressive a culinary feat, for there are over 750 bones to maneuver and extract. The Marino sisters of Dill Seafood in Bridgeton, NJ are best known for their supply of shad roe and boned shad, which they prepare with samurai precision. To learn their secret may require a visit to their shop. The fish, which average about two feet and weigh about five to six pounds, have relatively fatty flesh. The high fat content (13%) imparts a salmon or herring-like flavor. The roe itself has an even more distinct fishy-saline quality. The appeal of shad is the texture of the roe. The challenge of cooking the roe is in the technique, for once the roe is overcooked, you have missed the opportunity to experience a truly unique sensation. Patrick O'Connell of The Inn at Little Washington is accustomed to preparing shad roe for fellow Virginians who l ook for the delicacy every season. As for most delicate ingredients, O'Connell believes the less you do to it the better. The dual roe lobes are connected by a membrane, which must be removed gently, before they can be cooked individually. Each lobe is encased in its own extremely thin membrane. This fragile casing is the only thing that prevents the multitude of tiny roe pellets from drying up and becoming brittle. As O'Connell explains, "There is a natural crease on one side of the roe; when cooking the roe, I place the sack in a medium hot pan with the seam-side up so that when the lobe is turned, and finished in the oven, it can be easily transferred for service." At the restaurant, O'Connell pan fries the roe sack in butter or oil for 3-5 minutes on one side. "It's important to cook the roe over moderate heat," O'Connell insists. "If the heat is too high it will burst the roe sack and diminish the texture of the final product." O'Connell also prefers to finish the cooking process in a hot oven, because t he heat is less direct. Timing is crucial. One minute too long on the fire will create a dish even the biggest shad roe fan will lament. "Doneness is determined by pressing the top of the roe," O'Connell explains. "It is perfect when there is little or no resistance." Because of the distinct texture and flavor of roe, there are certain ingredients and cooking techniques that work best. Traditionally shad roe has been served with fried eggs, a ration of bacon, or just sauteed in a schmaltz of butter and onions. Today, shad is not the popular dish it once was, but chefs continue to explore the texture and flavor pairings that may reintroduce shad roe to nonbelievers and vindicate those who have been loyal all along. O'Connell considers the assertive flavors of an onion marmalade, balsamic vinegar reduction, or wild sorrel, the ideal foils for the herring-like flavor of shad and shad roe. Finely minced fried collard greens too provide both a nutty and salty accent and the deep emerald color imparts a slight shee n to the otherwise grey-brown wash of the shad roe. The bottom line when cooking shad roe is: gentle cooking techniques and aggressive accompaniments.

SHAD RUN

Though migration patterns in January are usually south bound, the bony, seafaring shad heads north, from the spacious waters of northern Florida, through the narrow fresh water rivers of North America. As a member of the herring family, shad, along with salmon and striped bass, are anadromous, meaning they live in the ocean but swim inland and spawn in fresh water. It is the temperate springtime river waters that draw the shad inland and up stream. Males swim ahead followed by the females. After several months, juveniles begin to migrate south towards the sea, where they will remain for three to six years until they return to the same inland waters to spawn. Shad is characterized by metallic silver and blue scales and contain two plump roe sacks. There is a window of about four weeks during the months of April and May along the Delaware and Hudson rivers when shad fans can buy fresh shad and shad roe. Enjoy it while you can, it's just passing through.

SCHADULE

Shad runs from Florida's St Johns River in late January or early February and reaches the Gulf of St. Lawrence in New Brunswick, Canada by June. The fish are most abundant in North Carolina to Connecticut during the months of March, April, and May when water temperatures reach 50-60 degrees. It is not until the shad reach the mid Atlantic that they are laden with roe. Festivals along the East Coast abound during the spring; Specific dates are determined each year by the migration patterns of the shad:

Grifton, North Carolina in early April Wakefield, Virginia in mid April Dorchester County, Maryland in early May Easton, Pennsylvania in late April--early May Lambertville, New Jersey in late April--early May. Narrowsburg, New York in mid May.

PATRICK O'CONNELL

THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON

WASHINGTON, VIRGINIA

My parents spent their honeymoon at a grand resort in the Virginia mountains. Every Sunday we drove to the hotel for dinner and on our way we passed through the small town of Washington, Virginia. I grew up enjoying the idea of Sunday dinners in the country," recalls Patrick O'Connell, Executive Chef and Co-Owner of The Inn at Little Washington. Though a neighbor of the county, O'Connell didn't immediately see the potential of the one-horse town. At the age of 21, unsure of what to do with his life, O'Connell decided to spend a year in Europe. At the advice of a friend, he bought a small piece of property before leaving; a starting point when he returned. "While I was in Europe I discovered the world of food, cooking, and cuisine; three things which were not considered respectable professions in the United States," O'Connell explains. "When I returned, I sold my property for a small profit and rented a defunct gas station in Washington, Virginia for $200." With the help of partner Reinhardt Lynch, a wood burn ing stove, and an electric frying pan, a catering company was born. Friends were so impressed the business soon became a restaurant. When The Inn at Little Washington first opened in 1978, a la carte menu prices ranged between $4.95 and $8.95--those were the days when O'Connell had only one kitchen helper, a 14 year old boy who lied about his age to get the job. Seven years later, a biting review in The Washington Post regarding the prices on the menu forced O'Connell to reconsider his menu format. "We basically changed to a prix fixed format to stay in business," he laughs. "Actually, it was the logical move after seven years." The set menu price provided dinner guests with a perceived value. "The prix fixe menu allows guests to enjoy the dining experience. They don't have to shop the menu for a meal they can afford," O'Connell reasons. Today the seven course, ten course, and vegetarian menus provide a wide range of options. Guests are offered an elaborate tray of hors d'oeuvre from which they may help thems elves then the meal begins; a demitasse of soup, a first course, and so on until dessert when a Dalmatian spotted "doggie" bag of sweets is delivered. O'Connell's greatest attribute is that he is open to change, or rather, improvement. The newest addition to The Inn at Little Washington is a feast for the eyes. The one and half year old renovated kitchen was conceived and built to resemble a traditional Windsor castle kitchen, complete with a servants dining quarter, where present day guests feel like royalty seated on either side of the stone hearth at one of two chef tables. Dinner at the chefs' table starts with a hand washing ceremony because the first course is enjoyed with the hands. The second course is prepared in the fireplace; truffles wrapped in aluminum foil for example, emerge from the fire steaming and ready to be sliced over a delicate frisee salad. The remaining dishes emerge from the sixteen foot copper Vulcan range, the undisputed centerpiece of the room. The former kitchen has been transfor med into a lavish sitting room with downy chairs and banquets. The luxurious fabrics, fringed peach chandeliers, and marble bust of a youthful Queen Victoria, hair piled high, dripping with ringlets, her bosom just barely contained, depict a more genteel era in Washington, Virginia.

ROBERT WIEDMAIER

MARCEL'S

WASHINGTON, DC

Executive Chef and Co-Owner of Marcel's restaurant. Robert Wiedmaier is coming into his own. His newest venture, and second partnership as an owner, is giving him the freedom to share the cuisine of his Belgian ancestry. At the beginning of his career, Wiedmaier apprenticed at the Michelin two-star Thermidor Restaurant in Hulst, Holland. He later spent a short time in Brussels at the well respected Eddie Can Maele restaurant. His first job in the United States was at Le Chardon D' or and he quickly made Washington D.C. his home. After two years, he accepted a position at Le Pavillion with noted chef Yannick Cam. He soon moved to the Four Seasons French inspired dining room where he earned the position of sous chef. After seven years, Wiedmaier branched out on his own and opened Cafe M, a tribute to both his French training and Flemish heritage. In 1996, Wiedmaier was asked to manage the dining facilities at. The Watergate Hotel and oversee reconstruction of the new restaurant, formerly occupied by Jean-Louis Palladin. It was during his years at Aquarelle, that Wiedmaier became a respected chef, praised for his wildly creative mix of American and French cuisines. Today, Wiedmaier enters his second year as chef/owner of Marcel's. It is a true marriage of the French technique he loves so well and the Flemish touch he inherited as a young boy; one he shares most naturally with the restaurants name sake: his two year old son. In just two short years, Marcel's has become a favorite of locals and food critics alike, receiving a premier nod from Phyllis Richman. Though a popular destination, the restaurant exudes a comfort, which comes from the confidence Wiedmaier has built over the course of twenty some years in the food business. Amidst the oversized bar, which can seat 50 guests, the exposed brick walls, and the wrought iron trellis, signs of Wiedmaier's rooster collection can be found. It is these touches that keep the intense attitude about food from creating a 'stiff' atmosphere. The Belgian sense of hospitality r ings through in the service.

Leeks, caramelized onions, Gruyere cheese, Belgian ham, and cherry beer reductions are hints of home for Wiedmaier. Though shad roe is not a typical Belgian or French dish, a little French technique need only be applied before the dish begins to take on an international flare. "Shad reminds me of foie gras," Wiedmaier notes. "It has a flavor all its own, yet it lends itself to so many other things." For the feature, Wiedmaier focuses on the texture of the roe, preferring to pair the malleable roe with crunchy items. Phyllo sheets, for example, provide an amiable flaky sheath for warmed spinach and roe. Thin fillets of pan fried shad add textural interest to the creamy quality of the roe. Like foie gras, Wiedmaier accompanies shad roe with distinct flavors. Capers, lemon, onions, red wine reductions, and Comte cheese for example, boost he taste, which ranges from neutral to peculiar. Creativity fears no ingredient in the kitchen. Chef Wiedmaier is a brave chef, sure of his skills and eager to express them.