Root down.

"I kick it root down / I put my root down It's not a put down/ I put my
foot down And then I make some love / I put my root down"
--The Beastie Boys, "Root Down" (1994)

ROOT VEGETABLES and tubers--those bumpy, dirt-clotted mainstays of fall, winter and early spring menus--rarely get the credit they quietly deserve. Having long played frumpy understudy to the far more glamorous and colorful members of the vegetable kingdom, they make it possible for chefs in even the coldest climates to observe a semblance of seasonality.

On the following pages, Chefs Barbara Lynch and Michael Schlow, two of Boston's best and most prolific chefs, have created recipes that showcase the versatility and beauty of some humble cellar dwellers.

YOU'RE CERTAINLY FAMILIAR WITH CARROTS, POTATOES, RADISHES AND YAMS, BUT PERHAPS LESS SO WITH SOME OF THE FOLLOWING ROOTS AND TUBERS:

ARRACACHA: A white or yellow root vegetable that resembles a carrot, grown in the Andean regions of South America, often in conjunction with maize, beans and coffee. A significant source of calcium, it is used in Brazil as a thickener for instant soups and baby formula.

MANGEL-WURZEL: A reddish-orange relative of the beet whose name (German for beet root) and reputation as cattle fodder have kept it from becoming a serious contender. Developed in Germany in the 1700's, it now most popular in England as an object to be thrown in semi-serious athletic competition.

QUAMASH: More commonly known as a spring bulb with a vibrant blue flower, quamash is native to Canada and the western United States, and its edible bulb was once a mainstay of native diets.

SKIRRET: A member of the parsley family whose white, pinky finger-sized roots grow in clusters and have a parsnip-like flavor. Skirret is a native of China and was common on many European and American tables a century ago but is now seldom cultivated for market.

ULLUCO: A tuber grown in high-elevation areas of Argentina, Bolivia, Colombia, Peru and Venezuela that has as many size and color variations as the potato. Rich in Vitamin C, it is generally boiled, mashed and fried.

WINGED BEAN: Also known as asparagus pea or goa bean, the winged bean is a native of Papua New Guinea, and is fairly common on Southeast Asian and British tables. It cannot tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees for any length of time, and in the United States is only grown in southern Florida, California and Texas. Better known for its seed pods, green and dried seeds, and edible flowers, the winged bean also has an edible, nitrogen-fixing tuber which can be prepared like a potato.

YACON: Grown in lower-altitude Andean regions of South America, the yacon is sweet and tender enough to be eaten raw, and its sweetness intensifies when the white or yellow-fleshed root vegetable is sun-dried.

RUSHES, STILLS, BIVALVES AND GILLS

BARBARA LYNCH

No. 9 Park, The Butcher Shop, B & G Oysters

Boston, MA

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

In 2002, forensic psychologist and documentary filmmaker Maryanne Galvin trained her lens on chef Barbara Lynch and, after a year of research, long talks and late nights in the kitchen, came away with the 30-minute film "Amuse Bouche: A Chef's Tale." Comprised of file footage, family photos, interviews and animated sequences, it paints a portrait of a driven young woman overcoming desperate circumstances, a view that Lynch says doesn't tell the whole story.

"It comes across a lot deeper and darker than my childhood actually was," says Lynch, who was born in a public housing complex in South Boston, one of seven brothers and sisters raised by a widowed mother. "Granted, we went to public schools and didn't have a lot of money, but I have a wonderful memory of my childhood, or most of it anyway. I felt like because [Galvin] is a psychologist, she wanted to play up the dark stuff instead." In interviews, Galvin has said that Lynch is a very private person, and that being so open in front of the camera wasn't easy for her. Lynch concurs, calling the process, "... brutal. It was not too much fun." The film is often shown to high school and culinary students from disadvantaged backgrounds, as a source of inspiration.

As for her own sources of inspiration, Lynch says that she relies "... mainly on a gut feeling. I'm influenced by reading, and as I was learning I was always influenced by going out to fine dining restaurants. I've always tried to surround myself with people who make me feel good. And lots of people in this business inspire me--[Alain] Ducasse, Daniel [Boulud], Danny Meyer and the way he runs his restaurants. The energy in the room is always great."

As a high school student, she found inspiration and guidance from a home economics teacher who encouraged her natural talent for cooking. While still in school, Lynch worked as a maid at Boston's St. Botolph Club, and after working her way to the kitchen, went on to cook at Harvest, Michaela's and Olives, the latter two under Todd English. In "Amuse Bouche," she recalls the pressure of working for English, saying, "I was petrified of Todd. He was so militant, like an old-school, hard-ass chef. He'd be running around the kitchen, screaming 'Get organized! Get your shit together! Don't you know what salt and pepper are? Get this food out of here!'" After five years at Olives, Lynch spent a year in Italy, cooking with women in their home kitchens and learning to make pasta, to cook according to the seasons and to get to the source of every ingredient, an education that continues to serve her well. Upon her return to Boston, she assumed the role of executive chef at Galleria Italiana, eventually earning a "Best New Chef" designation from Food & Wine.

In 1998, Lynch opened No. 9 Park in Boston's Beacon Hill neighborhood. She has used the restaurant as a platform for the soulful, simple French and Italian-inflected cooking that earned her the "Best Chef: New England" award from the James Beard Foundation in 2003, as well as a place on the Travel + Leisure list of the "Top 50 Restaurants in America. "That same year, she opened two new restaurants: The Butcher Shop, a European-style boucherie, wine bar and bistro; and B & G Oysters (short for "Bivalves and Gills"), whose conceptualization she says was a "... no-brainer. April comes around and I want to get oysters and really good wine, and that's been hard to find in Boston. With both [new restaurants], I felt that these were two niches that the city of Boston needed, that were missing."

As for her hometown's future as a restaurant city, Lynch is optimistic, saying, "I think we're going to see a lot more clarification, no more of that Euro-fusion thing going on. Portions are getting more reasonable and restaurants are paying more attention to what diners want. The city is growing immensely."

PARTY MOUTH

MICHAEL SCHLOW

RADIUS, VIA MATTA, GREAT BAY

BOSTON, MA

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Some chefs sell merchandise or match wines with their tasting menus to boost profits. Michael Schlow likes to make money by enforcing a 'no cursing' policy in his restaurant kitchens.

"If you curse, it costs you a dollar," he explains. "East Coast cooks can be some pretty sarcastic bastards, but you remove cursing from their repertoire and suddenly they're not so funny anymore." Schlow pocketed $1,200 in the first year that Radius, his modern French restaurant, was open. "I never believed that thing about the dirtier a line cook, the faster he is," says the chef, a graduate of New Jersey's Academy of Culinary Arts. "This is not like sports. I want stations immaculate, I want them to look good, the guys need to be clean shaven, and I don't want to see any advertisements on the t-shirts they wear under their chef coats. I'm an old-school chef, but without the kicking and screaming and punching I grew up with."

Of course, the Brooklyn-born and Jersey-raised chef does have some undisciplined moments in his past. In the introduction to his first cookbook, It's About Time (Steerforth Press, 2005), his longtime business partner Christopher Myers alludes to Schlow's propensity for throwing wild parties, even as a teenager. "My specialty was the toga party," Schlow says. "And if my parents weren't home, everyone would get on the roof and jump into the pool. But I would also throw dinner parties, where a bunch of us would sit around and watch TV and eat some recipe I'd found in a magazine, usually involving a tremendous amount of cream sauce," he laughs. "I still like to throw a party, and feel like I get to throw one every night that I work in one of the restaurants." In addition to six-year old Radius, Schlow, Myers and Esti Parsons co-own Via Matta, an homage to the Italian regions of Piedmont, Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna and Campania; and Great Bay, which Schlow calls "an attempt to redefine New England seafood cooking." He cites baked stuffed lobster as an example of a menu item that is "... always a disappointment [at other restaurants], because it's dried out. We've attempted to redirect peoples' expectations of New England seafood slightly. We make a New England clam chowder that is not that gloppy, thick, potato-infested thing we're all used to."

Schlow and Myers were first acquainted in 1988, when Myers was looking to hire a chef to replace the outgoing Todd English, at Michaela's. Wanting to woo Mark Straussman from his post at Sapore di Mare, in Southampton, but aware that he didn't have the budget for a top New York chef, Myers got on the phone and posed as a food writer in order to find out the name of Straussman's sous chef, which was Schlow. When Myers revealed his true motives, Schlow suddenly feared for his safety.

"I said to him, 'You don't know my boss [restaurateur Pino Luongo]! He'll tie me to his bumper and drag me around the parking lot if he knows I'm talking on his phone about a new job!" Schlow, feeling that it wasn't the right time for him to leave New York, ultimately took chef de cuisine positions at Luongo's Coco Pazzo and Le Madri restaurants in Manhattan, before opening Ariel & Michael, also in Manhattan. He and Myers remained friends, and it was Myers that referred him to the head spot at Boston's Cafe Louis in 1995. Together they opened Radius in 1999, earning a place on Gourmet's list of the "25 Best American Restaurants." The James Beard Foundation named Schlow Best Chef: Northeast in 2000, his first year of eligibility. Despite his way with food, Schlow had several other careers in mind before becoming a chef.

"There was a point in college where I was sort of an actor-slash-comedian, and I actually did some open mike nights. I also trained and raced harness horses, and I thought I would become a vet because I really enjoyed working with animals, but it didn't work out for me. And I was serious about baseball, but then I got injured. I've been working in restaurants since I was 14, but every once in a while I'll veer off and say, 'maybe I'll be a cowboy."

RELATED ARTICLE: Seared Diver Scallop with Salsify, Radish Salad and Truffle Vinaigrette (Serves 6)

BARBARA LYNCH

Gruner Veltliner Smaragd "Rotes Tor"

Hirlzberger

Wachau Valley, Austria 2001

directions

For the salsify puree: Drain salsify and chop coarsely. Heat butter in saute pan over low heat and add shallots. Sweat shallots, add salsify and cover with stock and cream. Simmer until tender, then remove from heat. Puree in blender, strain though fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the salsify batons: Combine stock, 3 tablespoons butter and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer. Drain salsify and poach in stock until tender. In saute pan, heat remaining butter over high heat until it foams and subsides. Drain batons and saute over high heat until caramelized. Season with salt and pepper.

For the truffle vinaigrette: In mixing bowl, combine grapeseed oil, lemon juice and truffle and whisk to emulsify. Season with truffle oil, salt and pepper. Transfer to squeeze bottle and set aside.

For the radish salad: Toss together radishes, lemon juice and oil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the scallops: In saute pan, heat oil over high heat until smoking. Season scallops with salt and pepper and sear in pan on both sides until golden brown and just cooked through, about three minutes per side.

To serve: Place salsify puree in center of plate, top with one scallop per plate and lean a few batons against each scallop. Drizzle vinaigrette into puree, top scallop with radish salad, garnish with micro watercress and freshly grated horseradish and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the salsify puree:

3 pounds salsify, peeled and held in acidulated water
2 tablespoons butter
4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salsify batons:

4 cups chicken stock
4 tablespoons butter
1 pound salsify, peeled, bias cut into 1-inch lengths and held in
  acidulated water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the truffle vinaigrette:

1 cup grapeseed oil
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 fresh truffle, cleaned and finely chopped
Truffle oil to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the radish salad:

4 baby radishes, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallops:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
6 large diver scallops, shucked
Salt and pepper to taste

For garnish:

Micro watercress
Freshly grated horseradish

RELATED ARTICLE: Root Vegetable Canapes: Parsley Root Veloute, Beets with Ricotta Salata, Stuffed Cipollini Onion, and Baby Turnip and Black Truffle Napoleon (Serves 6)

BARBARA LYNCH

(For the beets with ricotta salata)

Salento Rosato

Rosa del Golfo

Puglia, Italy 2002

(For the stuffed cipollini onion)

Poire "Granit"

Eric Bordelet

Normandy, France 2003

(For the parsley root veloute)

Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen

Weingut Brundlmayer

Langenlois, Austria 2003

(For the baby turnip and black truffle napoleon)

"Les Clos Sacres"

Joly Savennieres

Loire Valley, France 2002

directions

For the parsley root veloute: In saute pan, heat butter over medium heat and sweat shallots until translucent. Add parsley root, sweat one minute and cover with stock and cream. Simmer until tender, strain through fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper. Reserve six parsley leaves; blanch remaining leaves in boiling water for 10 seconds, then shock in salted ice water. Transfer to blender or food processor, add grapeseed oil and blend until very smooth. Strain though fine-mesh sieve lined with paper filter. In tall-sided pot, heat canola oil to 350 degrees. Fry reserved parsley leaves and parsley root skin until crisp, Drain on paper towels. Divide veloute among six small glasses, top with parsley oil and garnish with fried leaves and peel.

For the beets with ricotta salata: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Toss beets with olive oil. Wrap in foil, along with thyme, and roast in oven one hour or until tender. When cool enough to handle, peel and cut beets into 1/8-inch thick slices. Using 1-inch round cutter, cut as many circles as possible from beets. In small bowl combine honey, mustard, shallots and vinegar and mix well. Whisk in grapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss beets in vinaigrette. Stack beets, cheese and frisee in alternating layers. Drizzle remaining vinaigrette around stack. Top with chives.

For the stuffed cipollini onion: In saute pan, heat four tablespoons butter over medium-low heat and add onions. Cook over medium low heat until caramelized and tender. Remove from pan and let cool. Use Parisienne scoop to remove center from each onion. Chop centers and set aside. In saute pan, heat oil over medium-low heat. Add garlic and spinach and cook until spinach is wilted and garlic is toasted and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper, chop finely and set aside with chopped onions. Heat remaining butter in saute pan over high heat and add sweet potatoes. Cook over high heat until tender, then remove from heat and add to spinach mixture. Add cumin and half of zest to mixture and stir well. In saute pan, heat brown butter over high heat and add breadcrumbs. Saute over high heat until golden, season with salt and pepper and stir in remaining zest. Stuff spinach mixture into hollowed-out onions, top each with bread-crumbs and garnish with chervil and orange segments.

For the baby turnip and black truffle napoleon: Blanch the six most similarly sized turnips in salted water. Shock in ice water, drain and slice horizontally into thirds. Set aside. Coarsely chop remaining turnips. In saute pan, heat butter over medium-low heat, sweat shallots one minute, then add chopped turnips and sweat two minutes. Add stock and cream and simmer gently until tender. Puree, season with salt and pepper and strain though fine-mesh sieve. In small bowl, combine truffle trimmings, grapeseed oil and vinegar and whisk well. Season with truffle oil, salt and pepper. Place small dollop of puree on plate and dot with vinaigrette. Stack turnip and truffle slices in alternating layers, using pieces with stem intact on top of napoleon.

ingredients

For the parsley root veloute:

2 tablespoons butter
3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 pound parsley root, peeled and coarsely chopped, peeled skin reserved
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
2 bunches parsley, leaves only
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
2 cups canola oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the beets with ricotta salata:

2 large red beets, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 sprigs thyme
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 cup aged sherry vinegar
1/2 cup grapeseed oil
2 ounces ricotta salata, thinly sliced
2 ounces frisee, tarn into pieces
8 chives, cut into 1-inch lengths
Salt and pepper to taste

For the stuffed cipollini onion:

5 tablespoons butter
6 cipollini onions
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup spinach, stems removed
1/2 sweet potato, brunoise
Pinch of toasted ground cumin
Zest of 1 orange, blanched, shocked and finely chopped
2 tablespoons brown butter
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
Chervil leaves
1 orange, segmented
Salt and pepper to taste

For the baby turnip and black truffle napoleon:

20 small white baby turnips, peeled, 1/2-inch of stem intact
2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 fresh black truffle, peeled and thinly sliced, trimmings reserved and
  chopped
3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Truffle oil to taste
Salt and pepper

RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Sweet Potato Tart with Parsnip Cream (Serves 8)

BARBARA LYNCH & KRISTEN D. MURRAY

Welschriesling "Zwischen den Seen" No. 9

Kracher Trockenbeerenouslese

Burgenland, Austria 1996

directions

For the salted butter ice cream: In small saucepan, heat butter over high heat until it foams and subsides. Continue to cook until brown and fragrant. Remove from heat, stir in lemon juice and strain through fine-mesh sieve. Transfer to half sheet pan and refrigerate until solid. Cut two ounces butter into chunks and transfer to bowl, reserving remaining butter for tart shells. In large saucepan, combine milk, cream, glucose syrup, milk powder, glucose powder, sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Add pectin to bowl with butter. Once liquid mixture boils, remove from heat and pour over butter. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, transfer to ice bath and stir until chilled. Freeze in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Store in freezer until ready to use.

For the brown butter tart shells: In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine brown butter, flour, hazelnuts, confectioners' sugar, salt and inside of vanilla bean, reserving scraped pod. Combine until mixture is consistency of cornmeal. Add egg and mix until dough just comes together. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before cutting into eight equal pieces and rolling out to 1/4-inch thickness. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Press dough into 2 1/2-inch round tart pans, line with parchment paper and fill with baking weights or beans. Bake 15 minutes, remove weights and parchment and return to oven for five minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

For the sweet potato mousse: In saucepan, combine milk and sweet potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender. Remove from heat, cover and let sit one hour. Puree mixture in blender and strain through fine-mesh sieve. Set aside. In bowl, combine sugar, yolks, vanilla bean and Recioto di Soave and whisk together. Cook over water bath, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens. Remove from heat. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and stir into sweet potato mixture. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and fold into yolk and wine mixture. Fold whipped cream into mixture, working in thirds. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with #10 tip and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the parsnip pastry cream: In saucepan, combine milk and parsnips and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cover and let sit 20 minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and return to a boil. In bowl, whisk together yolks, milk powder, sugar and cornstarch until pale and increased in volume. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture, while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and cool in ice bath. When mixture is cool, fold whipped cream into mixture in thirds. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with #10 tip and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the chocolate glaze: In saucepan, combine water, sugar, milk powder, cocoa powder and cream. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and stir into hot mixture. Remove from heat, strain through fine-mesh sieve and let cool. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with #10 tip and keep at room temperature until ready to use.

For the candied root vegetables: Divide vegetables by type into four separate saucepans and cover each with simple syrup. Cook each on low heat until vegetables are translucent. Remove from heat and let cool in syrup. Drain vegetables, combine and toss with brown sugar.

To assemble tarts: Unmold tart shells. Using pastry bags, fill bottom half of shell with sweet potato mousse, fill top half of shell with parsnip pastry cream and top with chocolate glaze.

To serve: Place tart on plate, and place quenelle of ice cream alongside. Top tart with pinch of fleur de sel. Arrange pinch of cocoa powder next to ice cream. Arrange candied root vegetables perpendicular to tart and ice cream. Garnish vegetables with flowers and serve.

ingredients

For the salted butter ice cream:

7 1/2 ounces butter
1/4 ounce lemon juice
8 ounces milk
4 ounces heavy cream
3/4 ounce glucose syrup
3/4 ounce milk powder
3/4 ounce glucose powder
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon pectin

For the brown butter tart shells:

5 1/2 ounces brown butter, from above
6 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 1/2 ounces hazelnuts, finely ground
3 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar, sifted
Pinch of sea salt
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 egg

For the sweet potato mousse:

10 1/2 ounces milk
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into cubes
2 ounces granulated sugar
6 egg yolks
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1/4 cup Recioto di Soave or another medium-bodied dessert wine
6 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
10 1/2 ounces heavy cream, whisked to stiff peaks

For the parsnip pastry cream:

9 ounces milk
5 1/2 ounces peeled and grated parsnips
2 egg yolks
3/4 ounce milk powder
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce cornstarch
1 1/2 ounces heavy cream, whisked to stiff peaks

For the chocolate glaze:

4 1/2 ounces water
6 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce milk powder
1 1/2 ounces cocoa powder
4 ounces heavy cream
3 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the candied root vegetables:

1 turnip, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice, blanched and shocked
1 beet, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice, blanched and shocked
2 carrots, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice, blanched and shocked
2 parsnips, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch dice, blanched and shocked
4 cups simple syrup with 34 degree Baume scale reading*
1/4 cup dark brown sugar

To assemble tarts:

Brown butter tart shells, from above
Sweet potato mousse, from above
Parsnip pastry cream, from above
Chocolate glaze, from above

For garnish:

Fleur de sel
Cocoa powder
Hibiscus flowers

*Baume scale measures concentration of sugar in liquid by density. 34 degrees is equal to a solution with a ratio of two parts water to three and a quarter parts sugar.

RELATED ARTICLE: Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Ice Cream and Walnut Nougatine (Serves 8)

BARBARA LYNCH & KRISTEN D. MURRAY

Soave Classico "Le Colombare"

Pieropan Recioto

Veneto, Italy 2000

directions

For the carrot chips: Soak carrots in syrup 24 hours. Preheat oven to 110 degrees. Drain carrots and arrange in single layer on Silpat-lined sheet pan and dry in oven one hour.

For the cream cheese ice cream: Place cream cheese in medium bowl. In saucepan, combine remaining ingredients and warm until sugar just dissolves. Pour mixture over cream cheese, stir gently and strain mixture through fine-mesh sieve. Refrigerate mixture until chilled. Freeze in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer until needed.

For the carrot cake: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In large bowl, whisk together eggs, oil and sugar until mixture forms ribbons when lifted from bowl. In separate bowl, sift together salt, flour, cinnamon, baking soda and baking powder. Fold dry mixture into wet mixture, working in thirds. Fold in carrots. Divide among eight four-ounce, rectangular non-stick cake molds and bake 40 to 45 minutes, until cooked through. Let cool. Use paring knife to hollow out and remove center from each cake.

For the carrot coulis: Bring all ingredients to a boil in small saucepan. Pour into shallow mold and refrigerate until set. Transfer to blender and puree. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. Transfer to squirt bottle and set aside.

For the carrot foam: Combine juice and lethicin in small saucepan and warm over low heat to dissolve lecithin. Puree mixture, using immersion blender, and strain through fine-mesh sieve. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the walnut nougatine: Wet sugar with water and melt over high heat. Once most of sugar is melted, add butter and cook to medium caramel. Stir in walnuts and salt, working in batches and stirring to coat. Spread on greased sheet pan to cool. Chop finely and reserve.

To serve: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Fill centers of cakes with coulis, reserving enough to garnish plates, and warm cakes in oven. Use immersion blender or cappuccino machine steam attachment to froth carrot foam mixture. Arrange foam against one corner of cake. Arrange small pile of nougatine against opposite corner of cake. Top cake with quenelle of sorbet and one carrot chip. Garnish plate with remaining coulis and microherbs and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the carrot chips:

1 baby Heirloom carrot, very thinly sliced
8 ounces simple syrup with 24 degree Baume scale reading*

For the cream cheese ice cream:

8 ounces cream cheese
1 ounce granulated sugar
1 ounce glucose
1/2 ounce corn syrup

For the carrot cake:

2 eggs
3 ounces vegetable oil
6 ounces granulated sugar
Pinch of sea salt
4 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon ground Vietnamese cinnamon**
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 ounce baking powder
3/4 pound Chanteney carrots, grated***

For the carrot coulis:

8 ounces carrot juice
1/2 ounce granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
Large pinch of agar powder

For the carrot foam:

8 ounces carrot juice
1/4 ounce lecithin powder****

For the walnut nougatine:

4 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 ounce butter
4 ounces walnuts, toasted
Pinch of sea salt

For garnish:

Microherbs

*Baume scale measures concentration of sugar in liquid by density. 24 degrees is equal to a solution with a ratio of one and one half parts water to one part sugar.

**Vietnamese cinnamon is sweeter, more aromatic, and has a higher concentration of oil than the more common Indonesian variety. Available through The Spice House, www.thespicehouse.com.

***Short, rounded orange carrots with blunt ends. Chantenay carrots are sweet and have intense carrot aroma. Available through specialty produce purveyors. May substitute other carrot varieties.

****A soy byproduct, used as an emulsifier. Available in health food stores.

RELATED ARTICLE: Hamachi with Pickled Lotus Root and Ponzu Vinaigrette (Serves 4)

MICHAEL SCHLOW

Menetou-Salon

Domaine Chatenoy

Loire Volley, France 2003

directions

For the pickled lotus root: Cook lotus root slices in boiling water 30 seconds, Drain and shock in ice bath. Remove, pat dry and place in small bowl. In small saucepan, combine remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Cook one minute, then pour over lotus root. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

For the ponzu vinaigrette: Combine all ingredients in bowl and whisk to emulsify. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the hamachi: Dress hamachi with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to taste.

To serve: Place three lotus root slices on each plate. Top each slice with one piece of dressed hamachi. Place one piece of roe atop each piece of hamachi. Garnish with caviar, zest, horseradish and chives. Drizzle ponzu vinaigrette alongside and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the pickled lotus root:

1 small lotus root, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons red beet juice

For the ponzu vinaigrette:

4 tablespoons hot soy chili paste
2 tablespoons ponzu sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon togarashi flakes*
1 shallot, peeled and fincly chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped Thai basil
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon ginger juice
Sea salt to taste

For the hamachi:

12 ounces hamachi loin, cut. into 1-ounce portions
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Lemon juice to taste
Sea salt to taste

For garnish:

Sea urchin roe
American sturgeon caviar
Julienned lemon zest, blanched and shocked
Julienned horseradish root, blanched and shocked
Finely chopped chives

*A small red Japanese chili pepper, used fresh or dried. Available in Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Celery Root Soup with Shrimp, Bacon and Black Truffles (Serves 12)

MICHAEL SCHLOW

Verdejo

Naia

Rueda, Spain 2003

directions

For the celery root soup: In large saucepot, bring milk to a simmer. Add celery root, butter and olive oil and cook over low heat until celery root is tender. Season with sugar, salt and white pepper. When celery root is very tender, transfer mixture to blender and puree until smooth. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and adjust consistency with additional milk if desired. Keep warm.

For the shrimp, bacon and black truffles: In saute pan, heat bacon over high heat until fat is rendered. Drain and discard fat and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until bacon is golden brown and crispy. Transfer to bowl and add shrimp, carrots and truffles. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Divide bacon mixture among twelve 4-ounce glasses, packing tightly. Reserve two ounces of soup. Pour remaining soup over each serving, taking care not to disturb bacon mixture. Froth reserved soup with immersion blender and top each serving with froth. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the celery root soup:

3 cups milk
1 large celery root, peeled and cut. into 2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Sugar to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the shrimp, bacon and black truffles:

4 ounces bacon, cut into brunoise
6 large shrimp, cleaned, poached and finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled, cut into brunoise, blanched and shocked
1 small black truffle, peeled and finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Loup de Mer with Carrots Three Ways (Serves 4)

MICHAEL SCHLOW

Jasnieres "Les Rosiers"

Domaine de Belliviere

Loire Valley, France 2002

directions

For the red carrot puree: Place sliced carrots in pot and cover with juice, reserving a few tablespoons. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until slices are tender. Transfer mixture to blender and puree until smooth. Strain mixture through fine-mesh sieve and stir in reserved juice. Season with sugar and salt and set aside at room temperature until ready to use.

For the orange carrot vinaigrette: In saucepan, bring juice to a boil and cook until reduced to syrup consistency. Whisk juice vigorously, strain through fine-mesh sieve and let cool to room temperature. Season with lemon juice and salt and stir in oil. Note that oil and juice will not emulsify, giving vinaigrette a "broken" look. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use.

For the golden carrot julienne: Dress carrots with oil, lemon juice, sugar and salt. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use.

For the loup de mer: Heat oil in large saute pan until nearly smoking. Season fish on skin side with salt and pepper and place skin side down in pan. Cook until skin is crisp, season flesh with thyme, salt and pepper. Baste with pan juices and turn over. Add lemon juice and remove from pan.

To serve: Place fish in center of plate and top with golden carrot julienne. Drizzle orange carrot vinaigrette along one side of fish and place dab of puree along other side. Garnish with thyme and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the red carrot puree:

1 bunch red carrots, peeled and thinly diced
2 bunches red carrots, peeled and juiced
Granulated sugar to taste
Salt to taste

For the orange carrot vinaigrette:

3 bunches orange carrots, peeled and juiced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt to taste

For the golden carrot julienne:

1 bunch golden carrots, peeled and finely julienned
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Granulated sugar to taste
Salt to taste

For the loup de mer:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 3 1/2 ounce fillets loup de mer
1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For garnish:

Thyme leaves

RELATED ARTICLE: Red Beet Cannelloni with Saffron-Poached Lobster and Chive Oil (Serves 4)

MICHAEL SCHLOW

Merusault

Domaine Matrot

Burgundy, France 2002

directions

For the chive oil: Blanch chives in salted boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain, shock in ice bath and wring dry in kitchen towel. Transfer to food processor fitted with blade, add oil and puree until smooth. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, transfer to squeeze bottle and set aside until ready to use.

For the parsnip puree: In saucepan, combine parsnips, milk, butter and olive oil and season with sugar, salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook until parsnips are very tender. Strain parsnips, reserving milk mixture, and transfer to blender, adding just enough hot milk mixture to allow blender to work. Mixture should be quite thick. Puree until smooth. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. Adjust seasoning and refrigerate until chilled. Transfer to pastry bag fitted with #10 tip and keep refrigerated until ready to use.

For the red beet cannelloni: Blanch beet slices in salted boiling water for 10 seconds. Drain and shock in ice bath. When cool, drain, pat dry and lay flat on parchment paper. Pipe a 3/4-inch strip of parsnip puree along edge of one beet slice. Roll slice around puree to form cylinder. Using very sharp knife, cut into 3-inch pieces. Repeat with remaining beets and puree. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

For the saffron-poached lobster: In saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add butter to boiling water, a few chunks at a time, whisking after each addition to emulsify and making sure that mixture does not exceed 190 degrees. Once all butter is incorporated, whisk in saffron and continue to maintain temperature. Cook over low heat five minutes, then strain sauce through fine-mesh sieve into clean pan. Place pan over low heat and add lobster tails, reserving claws for another use. Poach over low heat until just cooked through. Reserve poaching liquid and lobster separately, keeping warm.

For the crispy prosciutto salad: In small bowl, combine frisee and microgreens. Add oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper and toss to coat. Add prosciutto and toss gently.

To serve: Heat cannelloni in oven until parsnip puree is warmed through. Place two cannelloni on each plate and place one lobster tail between them. Top lobster with crispy prosciutto salad. Place drizzle of lobster poaching liquid alongside lobster and drizzle chive oil alongside poaching liquid. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the chive oil:

2 bunches chives, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup grapeseed oil

For the parsnip puree:

2 medium parsnips, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Granulated sugar to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the red beet cannelloni:

1 extra large red beet, peeled and sliced with Japanese vegetable
  sheeter
Parsnip puree, from above

For the saffron-poached lobster:

1/2 cup water
2 pounds butter, cut into small chunks
1 tablespoon saffron threads
4 1 1/2-pound lobsters, blanched three minutes and removed from shells

For the crispy prosciutto salad:

1 small bunch frisee, torn into pieces
2 ounces assorted microgreens
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1 ounce prosciutto, julienned and deep-fried until crispy
Salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Slow-Roasted Beef Ribeye with Haricots Verts, "Red Flannel Hash" and Red Wine Syrup (Serves 4)

MICHAEL SCHLOW

Carmignana

Vilta di Capezzona

Tuscany, Italy 2001

directions

For the red wine syrup: On cheesecloth, combine thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns. Pull cheesecloth around ingredients to form loose bundle and secure with twine. In saucepan, combine bundle, red wine and port. Bring to a boil and reduce to light syrup consistency. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and season with sugar to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the "red flannel hash": Cook each root vegetable separately in salted boiling water until tender. Drain each vegetable, shock in ice bath, drain and set aside. In large saute pan, heat butter over medium-high heat until it foams and subsides. Add shallots, thyme and rosemary, saute two minutes, then add all vegetables. Saute over high heat until vegetables are cooked through and glazed with butter. Season with salt and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the haricots verts: Heat butter in saute pan over high heat until it foams and subsides. Add haricots verts and saute over high heat four minutes, until cooked through. Season with salt and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the slow-roasted ribeye: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Heat oil in saute pan over high heat one minute. Add butter and allow to melt. Add shallots, thyme and rosemary and cook two minutes. Season meat with salt and pepper and place in pan. Cook two minutes per side over medium-low heat, taking care to keep meat from searing. Transfer pan to oven and cook meat to medium-rare. Remove from oven, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest five minutes, then cut each portion into two equal pieces.

To serve: Using 2-inch ring mold, arrange hash on one side of plate. Place haricots verts on opposite side of plate and top with one portion of meat. Garnish meat with fleur de sel. Drizzle plate with red wine syrup and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the red wine syrup:

1 5-inch square of cheesecloth, rinsed under cold water and squeezed dry
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
10 black peppercorns
1 5-inch length cotton twine
3 cups red wine
1 cup port
Granulated sugar to taste

For the "red flannel hash":*

1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 parsnip, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 turnip, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 golden beet, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 yam, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 yucca root, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 purple potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 celery root, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 tablespoons butter
3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves
1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

For the haricots verts:

2 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound haricots verts, blanched
Salt and pepper to taste

For the slow-roasted ribeye:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped thyme leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary leaves
2 4-inch thick boneless ribeye steaks, "cap" removed and reserved for
  another use
Salt and pepper to taste

For garnish:

Fleur de sel
Red wine syrup (from above)

*A traditional New England dish comprised of boiled beets, boiled potatoes, onions and bacon, fried until crisp.

RELATED ARTICLE: Spiced Tapioca with Salsify Ice Cream, Mango Puree and Almond Foam (Serves 4)

MICHAEL SCHLOW & P.J. WATERS

Moscato d'Asti

Paolo Saracco

Piedmont, Italy 2004

directions

For the salsify ice cream: In non-reactive pot wider than it is tall, combine milk, heavy cream, half of sugar, salt, trimolene, salsify and almonds. Heat to 180 degrees. While milk cooks, combine yolks, remaining sugar and vanilla extract in large bowl and whisk until sugar is dissolved and mixture has increased in volume. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon. Transfer to ice bath and stir continuously until mixture is cool. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, pour into ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the spiced tapioca: In saucepan, combine tapioca, water and milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until pearls are translucent. Remove from heat and strain, reserving one cup cooking liquid and tapioca separately. Stir salt, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon and lime juice into reserved cooking liquid. Add sugar and stir to dissolve completely. Pour mixture over tapioca and stir to coat. Divide mixture among four 1-inch greased ring molds arranged on sheet pan. Refrigerate until set.

For the mango puree: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine mango and sugar and puree until smooth. Add water as needed to achieve desired consistency. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the almond foam: In saucepan, combine half of milk, almonds, sugar and salt. Bring almost to a boil, then remove from heat and let steep 10 minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and chill in ice bath, stirring until cool. Refrigerate two hours. Stir in remaining milk and almond extract and, using steam nozzle on cappuccino machine, froth mixture until it doubles in volume and has foamy consistency.

To serve: Unmold spiced tapioca onto plate. Sprinkle granulated brown sugar on top and caramelize with blowtorch. Place quenelle of ice cream alongside tapioca and spoon foam around. Drizzle mango puree alongside ice cream. Arrange mango slices in fan formation on plate. Lay one strip of salsify across ice cream. Sprinkle zest over mango slices and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the salsify ice cream:

12 ounces milk
4 ounces heavy cream
4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 ounce trimolene*
4 ounces salsify, peeled, thinly sliced and roasted until tender
2 ounces sliced almonds, toasted
4 egg yolks
1/2 tablespoon vanilla extract

For the spiced tapioca:

3 ounces large pearl tapioca
1 1/2 quarts water
16 ounces milk
Pinch of salt
Pinch of ground black pepper
Pinch of ground cardamom
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Juice of 1/2 lime
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar

For the mango puree:

1 mango, peeled, pitted and coarsely chopped
7 ounces granulated sugar
Water as needed

For the almond foam:

1 quart milk
8 ounces toasted almonds
4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 ounce salt
3 drops almond extract

To serve:

Granulated brown sugar to taste

For garnish:

Peeled, sliced mango
Deep-fried salsify strips
Grated lime zest

*A liquid invert sugar used to stabilize frozen confections. Available through The Chef's Warehouse, www.chefswarehouse.com.