Ricotta: the whey of the world: Ricotta is easy to overlook as it quietly fills empty spaces and lends substance to things both savory and sweet. In the following pages, this unsung workhorse speaks up for itself.

Forty years ago, ricotta was something of an exotic product in the U.S., used in mysterious Italian dishes like lasagna and ravioli. In his paper for the 4th Annual Marschall Invitational Italian Cheese Seminar in 1967, Professor of Food Science Frank V. Kosikowski insisted that ricotta usage "must be explained to more housewives," predicting that "the consumption curve for ricotta cheese is in the beginning stages of a climb to a high peak." Since then, in a market where the overall per capita demand for cheese has risen 175%, the demand for ricotta is up 243% and still rising. No longer referred to generically as "cheese," it now appears as a featured ingredient on restaurant menus in ricotta ravioli, ricotta pierogi, ricotta fritters and more.

As familiar as apple pie, ricotta could still use some explaining.

Meaning "re-cooked," ricotta is, in its traditional form, the product of a by-product. It was born of thrift, the practical solution to the unwanted whey produced in cheese-making. Its origins are thought to be in Sicily where, history records, King Frederick II enjoyed a 13th-century bowlful with a farmer while on a hunting expedition. Ricotta may be much older than that however, with references to ricotta-like foods appearing in Greek sources as early as the third century A.D.

At its simplest, ricotta is obtained by allowing whey to ferment overnight, acidifying the liquid. It is then heated to about 180 degrees to coagulate the protein remaining in it. The protein rises to the surface as foam and is skimmed off and drained. Ricotta made only from whey is technically a dairy product, not a cheese, because the cheese curds have been removed to make a different product--usually mozzarella or provolone--in the first place.

Most ricotta today is a cheese because it is made from milk or a combination of milk and whey. Using milk maximizes the yield and gives a creamier, milder-tasting result. According to the specifications set by the USDA, there are three types of commercially made ricotta: whole milk ricotta, part-skim ricotta and ricotta. Both whole milk and part-skim ricottas are made entirely from milk. Ricotta is made either from skim milk, or a blend of skim milk and whey. For all three, an acid such as lactic acid is added to the milk to precipitate the curds rather than allowing for natural fermentation to occur.

In Italy as in the U.S., ricotta for mass consumption is generally made from cow's milk. However, fresh Italian ricotta made from the whey of cheese-making is a revelation, especially if it is made from sheep's or water buffalo milk. Even though whole milk is added, it's drier and nuttier in flavor than commercially prepared types and is often eaten as is, with little more than a drizzle of olive oil and some fresh herbs. Cheese-makers also preserve fresh ricotta by salting, smoking, drying and seasoning it in various ways. The familiar ricotta salata is a Sicilian specialty, a sheep's milk ricotta that has been salted, pressed and dried to a crumbly texture. Among the other forms are Sicilian oven-browned ricotta infornata; and Calabrian ricotta affumicata, which is smoked.

For years there was something of an unfortunate irony to ricotta. A perfect food, its invention seemed to utilize a waste product to provide some extra nutrition. But what remains after the extraction of protein in both whey- and milk-based ricottas is acid whey, an even more problematic substance. With its high pH, it cannot be simply dumped because of the havoc it would wreak in the water supply. Maybe there wasn't enough of it in the Middle Ages to cause concern, but in recent times there's been too much to handle, forcing some cheese-makers to ship the whey hundreds of miles for use in animal feed.

Fortunately, science has been able to offer a solution. All acid-precipitated cheeses--including cottage cheese, cream cheese, panir and queso blanco--produce acid whey, which in spite of the precipitation process is still rich in protein. In 2005, a technology finally came into being that could extract the protein in a high-quality form that is suitable for many different applications. Whey Protein Isolate (WPI) is used in health and performance-enhancing foods while Acid Whey Powder (AWP) can be found in commercially made dips, dressings, and cheese sauces. Ricotta-making has once again become an exercise in maximizing the benefits of a valuable resource.

SEEING Stars

When Michael White vacated his position at the helm of Fiamma Osteria's kitchen last year, Christian Fantoni, his chef de cuisine, was asked to fill the gap. "All the big weight was on my shoulders," he says, reliving his attempt to retain the restaurant's Michelin star. "We were like, 'Wow, we're going to lose it, who knows what's going to happen?'" Nevertheless, he organized a complete menu revision, changing the style of the food and its presentation--a gamble that paid off. Fiamma kept its star for 2007, establishing Fantoni as a gifted chef in his own right.

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A native of Bergamo, Italy, Fantoni discovered his culinary aspirations at a young age, spending time on his uncle's farm and trailing his mother in professional kitchens. "I grew up close to everything food--everything was always food, food and food," he recalls. At twelve years old, he knew it was the career for him. At thirteen he was in culinary school and spending his summers working a garde manger station. Upon graduation, he traveled to Belgium, France and Switzerland before returning to take a position at Da Vittorio, a Michelin two-star restaurant near Bergamo. Soon afterward he moved to Dell'Angelo, another Michelin-star establishment in his hometown.

But gaining experience in Italy soon took its toll. "It was very difficult to work and money was not very good," he admits. His solution was to move to the United States, if only as a temporary measure. "I was always interested in the United States culture-wise--and I'm like 'Why not?' I really wanted to try it, see what America is all about. I wanted to try it for one year." That was eleven years ago. In 1996 he moved to Los Angeles to work at Rex; two years later he relocated to New York where he has been ever since, doing stints at San Domenico, Le Cirque and Le Bernardin before joining Fiamma Osteria in 2003 as chef de cuisine.

Working in the U.S. hasn't necessarily been ideal either. He was now in a country where the year-round availability of produce is taken for granted, even at the expense of flavor. "You can find the products here 24/7, 365 days of the year. You know you can find a tomato every time, you can find zucchini every time--it's great for the customer because of the consistency, but the quality, you lose the quality," he says wistfully. Add to that the rarely noted reverse of the situation--that of having to learn how to find the fresh and seasonal amid such unnatural bounty. In Italy, seasonality was a simple fact that required no thought. "You know that's all there's going to be, and the menu's going to be only these items, and that's it," he explains. "Now it's very challenging to me to understand what is ripe? What is not ripe? Because every day you can find it."

Fantoni has come finally to a place where he can insist on the best of everything and express himself fully. "Everybody thinks of Italian like fettuccine alfredo and spaghetti and meatballs, and it's not what it is," he observes. "Where I come from, we eat truffles and foie gras ... this is what I try to bring to my cooking. It's what I remember, growing up in Italy." Misperceptions may linger among some restaurant-goers, but Fantoni is happy to enlighten their palates, if they're willing. "You always find people who want spaghetti with tomato, gnocchi with tomato and mozzarella. I just try to input some different things. Some people understand it, some people don't understand it. Some people like it, some people don't like it," he shrugs. "And that's what is great about this job."

The dessert recipes were created with pastry chef Timothy Roberts.

Salt-Baked Golden and Red Beets with Garlic Ricotta Crema

(Serves 4)

Verdicchio dei Castelli de

Jesi Classico, "Balciana" Sartarelli

Marche, Italy 2001

For the beets:

2 golden beets
2 red beets
1/4 cup Sicilian sea salt
2 sprigs thyme

For the crema:

4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup goat ricotta
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the dressing:

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the hazelnuts:

2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 cup hazelnuts
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Micro greens
Shaved bottarga
Saba
Basil oil

For the beets: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place golden beets on sheet of foil with two tablespoons salt and one spring thyme, and seal tightly. Repeat with red beets Transfer both to sheet pan and roast until tender, about two hours. Let cool, then peel and cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

For the crema: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Place garlic on sheet of foil with oil. Seal tightly and roast until softened, about 20 minutes. Let cool, then transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade. Add ricotta and cream and puree until smooth. Stir in chives, season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the dressing: In bowl, combine shallots and vinegar and marinate 15 minutes. Whisk in oil and season with salt and pepper.

For the hazelnuts: In small saucepan, heat sugar over medium heat until caramelized. Stir in hazelnuts and season with pinch of salt. Pour onto Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan to cool. Transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade and finely chop.

To serve: In bowl, combine beets and dressing. Spoon crema on plate and, using 3-inch ring mold, top with beets. Remove mold. Garnish with micro greens and sprinkle with hazelnuts and bottarga. Drizzle with saba and basil oil and serve.

Trentino-Style Speck and Nettle Gnudi with Wild Mushroom Ragu

(Serves 4)

Barbera d'Asti, "Costamiole"

Prunotto

Piemonte, Italy 1998 (R)

                                                          For the gnudi:

                                                          2 cups ricotta
                                                            2 cups flour
                                                                  2 eggs
                            1/2 cup nettles, blanched and finely chopped
                                        1/4 cup finely chopped speck ham
                                    2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese
                           Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

                                             For the wild mushroom ragu:

                                                 2 tablespoons olive oil
                              2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
                                                           1 sprig thyme
                             1 ounce porcini mushrooms, coarsely chopped
                         1 ounce chanterelle mushrooms, coarsely chopped
                              1 ounce oyster mushrooms, coarsely chopped
                             1 ounce lobster mushrooms, coarsely chopped
                                                         2 ounces butter
                           Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

                                                        For the garnish:

                                                   Grated ricotta salata
                                         Thinly silced, oven-dried speck
                                                       Fried sage leaves

For the gnudi: In large bowl, combine ricotta, flour, eggs, nettles, speck and parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Bring large pot of salted water to boil and add quenelles of ricotta mixture. Simmer five minutes.

For the wild mushroom ragu: In saute pan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and thyme and saute briefly. Add mushrooms and cook until mushrooms are lightly browned and tender. In separate saute pan over medium-low heat, brown butter. Add mushroom mixture to pan and cook several minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Spoon mushroom ragu on plate and top with gnudi. Garnish with ricotta salata, speck and sage leaves, and serve.

Ricotta Agnolotti with Almond Foam and Green Apple Sauce

(Serves 4)

Falerno del Massico

Villa Matilde

Campania, Italy 2003

                                                          For the dough:

                                                   9 ounces '00' flour *
                                           1/2 ounce fine semolina flour
                                                 2 tablespoons olive oil
                                                            15 egg yolks

                                                      For the agnolotti:

                                       2 cups Roman sheep's milk ricotta
                                               1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
                                                 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
                                                                   1 egg
                             2 tablespoons finely chopped black truffles
                                                  1 teaspoon truffle oil
                                                       Dough, from above
                           Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

                                                    For the almond foam:

                                                            1 quart milk
                                                    3/4 cup almond flour
                                                 1 tablespoon almond oil
                                                1 tablespoon lecithin **

                                              For the green apple sauce:

               2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
                                                        1 1/2 cups water
                                                      Juice of 1/2 lemon

To serve:

2 tablespoons butter

For the garnish:

Grated Parmesan cheese
Finely chopped chives
Finely chopped chervil
Toasted slivered almonds
Finely julienned Granny Smith apple

* An Italian designation for exceptionally soft, highly refined flour.
Available through the King Arthur Flour Company, [phone] or
www.kingarthurflour.com.
** An emulsifier generally made from soy, Available through Pleasant
Hill Grain, [phone] or www.pleasanthillgrain.com.

For the dough: In bowl, combine flour and semolina and transfer to work surface. Make well in center and add oil and yolks. Working from the center outwards, slowly combine wet and dry ingredients until thoroughly mixed. Form dough into ball, cover and set aside for 30 minutes.

For the agnolotti. In bowl, combine ricotta, mascarpone and Parmesan cheese, egg, truffles and truffle oil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Roll dough through pasta machine down to second-thinnest setting. On half of dough, place teaspoons of filling three inches apart. Fold dough over filling and cut into rectangles. Press edges to seal. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the almond foam: In bowl, whist together milk and flour and set aside for two hours. Strain through cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh sieve and transfer to saucepan. Add oil and lecithin and bring to 105 degrees over medium-low heat. Using hand-held immersion blender, blend until frothy.

For the green apple sauce: In saucepan, combine apples, water and juice and bring to boil. Simmer until apples are tender. Drain and transfer apples to food processor fitted with metal blade. Puree until smooth.

To serve: Bring large pot of salted water to boil and add agnolotti. Cook until agnolotti float, about three minutes, and drain. In saute pan, heat butter over medium heat. Add agnolotti and saute briefly. Season with salt and pepper and arrange on plate with almond foam and apple sauce. Top with cheese, chives, chervil, slivered almonds and apples, and serve.

Cheesecake Gelato with Olive Oil Cake

(Serves 8)

Vin Santo Riserva

Tenuta di Capezzana

Toscana, Italy 1999

For the gelato:

6 egg yolks
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla paste
12 ounces whole milk ricotta

For the orange chips:

1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 blood orange, thinly sliced crosswise

For the cake:

5 egg yolks
5 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
3/4 cup olive oil
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
5 ounces cake flour
4 egg whites
Pinch of salt

For the sugar sticks:

7 ounces granulated sugar
3 tablespoons water
For the garnish
Blood orange segments
Olive oil
Hawaiian black sea salt

For the gelato. In bowl, whisk together yolks and sugar until light and fluffy. In saucepan, combine milk and cream and bring to simmer. While stirring constantly, slowly add hot cream mixture to yolk mixture. Place bowl over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon. Do not let mixture boil. Using immersion blender, mix in ricotta until smooth. Strain through cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh sieve and refrigerate four hours. Freeze in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

For the orange chips: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. In saucepan, combine sugar and water over low heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Dip orange slices in mixture and place on Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Dry in oven two hours.

For the cake: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In bowl, whisk together yolks and sugar until ribbons form. Whisk in oil, zest and juice. Fold in flour until just combined. In separate bowl, whip egg whites with salt to medium peaks. Fold into yolk mixture and transfer to pastry bag fitted with metal tip. Divide between eight 3 1/4-inch buttered and floured savarin molds and bake eight minutes.

For the sugar sticks: In saucepan over medium heat, cook sugar and water until caramelized. On lightly oiled metal work surface, drag lines of caramel with spoon and let harden. Place sticks in airtight container until ready to use.

To serve: Fan blood orange segments on plate and top with cake and quenelle of gelato. Garnish with orange chip and sugar sticks, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt.

Pizzelle Cannoli with Pistachio-Swirled Ricotta Mousse

(Serves 4)

Vecchio Samperi, 20-year-old

De Bartoli

                                                       For the pizzelle:

                                                         4 ounces butter
                                               5 ounces granulated sugar
                                              1 teaspoon vanilla extract
                                               2 teaspoons anise extract
                                                                  3 eggs
                                               2 teaspoons baking powder
                                              8 ounces all-purpose flour

                                                         For the mousse:

                                                                   1 egg
                                                             2 egg yolks
                                                1 ounce granulated sugar
                                2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
                                             8 ounces whole milk ricotta
                                                     3/4 cup heavy cream
                                         1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
                                            1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
                                                4 ounces pistachio paste

                                                        For the garnish:

                                                      Chopped pistachios
                                                     Candied orange zest
                                                   Bittersweet chocolate
                                                    Confectioner's sugar

For the pizzelle: In mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine butter, sugar and extracts and mix until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, stirring after each addition. Add baking powder and flour and mix until just combined. Let rest 15 minutes. Preheat 6-inch pizzelle iron. Drop rounded teaspoon of batter on iron and press closed. Cook until golden brown, about 30 seconds. Wrap pizzelle around metal cannoli form while still pliable and let cool. Repeat with remaining batter. (Note: makes more pizzelles than needed for recipe.)

For the mousse: In bowl, whisk together eggs, yolks and sugar. Place over simmering water and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and light in texture. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and stir into egg mixture. In food processor fitted with metal blade, puree ricotta until smooth and whisk into egg mixture. Let mixture cool to 70 degrees. In separate bowl, combine cream, vanilla and cinnamon and whip to soft peaks. Fold into egg mixture and swirl in pistachio paste. Place mousse in pastry bag fitted with round tip and pipe into cannoli shells.

To serve: Garnish ends of cannoli with pistachios, zest and chocolate, and arrange on plate. Dust with confectioner's sugar and serve.