Rice flour batter absorbs less oil.

Face it: Fried chicken is good because of the oil and the batter it's cooked in. But that taste-tempting combination comes at the price of added fat in our diets. Not surprisingly, pressure is on the industry to curb its products' fat content. One possible solution involves USDA/ARS researchers (Food Processing and Sensory Quality Research Unit, Southern Regional Research Center, 1100 Robert E. Lee Blvd., New Orleans, LA 70179), who have developed a new rice flour batter that absorbs 60% less oil than standard commercial batters made from wheat.

The product uses flour from regular long-grain rice as the main ingredient. Scientists also are looking at other types of rice, like short- and medium-grain varieties. Currently, wheat flour holds sway as the chief ingredient in commercial batter products. Plunged into the deep fat fryer, wheat gives fried chicken, fish and other foods a crispy, golden coat and mouth-watering flavor.

But wheat flour can also make food greasy, thanks in great part to the gluten it contains. This component not only keeps the batter fluffy and firmly attached to food, it also binds tightly with oil molecules, boosting the food's fat content. For example, 3 oz of batter-fried chicken breast (meat only) contains 160 calories and 4 g of fat, according to the ARS Nutrient Data Laboratory. With skin and breading included, that number jumps to 220 calories and 11 g of fat.

But investigators found that the proteins and starch in rice flour are chemically different from those in wheat. They have a weaker grip on oil. Rice flour also is less allergenic than other grain flours. In experiments, scientists fried various rice batter formulations coated onto skinless chicken breast nuggets. They then gently peeled off the coating and subjected it to a solvent extraction procedure that whisks away the oil for weighing and analysis.

One thing you have to look for in a batter is whether it forms a slurry well, the scientists indicate. It also has to be adhesive enough to stick to the chicken, but it can't be overly thick. Though the normal rice batter cooked well and absorbed substantially less oil than wheat-based batters, it initially didn't puff up as well. Nor did it always stay coated on the meat.

Researchers overcame these problems by modifying the rice flour with enzymes and other treatments. This produced an improved batter with cooking properties similar to that containing wheat. The scientists have applied for patent protection and are helping industry further evaluate the rice batter's oil-uptake properties. Applications for the batter include chicken, fish and shrimp, as well as vegetables like fried okra and onion rings.

Further information. Frederick Shih; phone: [phone]; fax: [phone].