RUSSIA IN THE VALLEY.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Part of the skyline in Studio City has changed, particularly if you're gazing at it from a window seat at Art's Deli, across the road. What you'll see is a rooftop of onion domes denoting the Russian architectural influence on a building (formerly Cabaret Tehran) that now houses Romanov. Entry to this new Russian-themed restaurant on the building's second floor is by elevator. The first impression when exiting the elevator is opulence with a capital O. There's an attractive tiered dining room with a bar left and stage right. But the attention-getter has to be the room's huge crystal and leaded-glass globed chandelier, measuring around 10 feet by 12 feet, that looks like something a czar would order. Heavy drapes drape v. draped, drap·ing, drapes v.tr. 1. To cover, dress, or hang with or as if with cloth in loose folds: draped the coffin with a flag; a robe that draped her figure. , an ornate mirror behind the bar and elegant furnishing contribute to an overall richness in design by Margaret O'Brien. But if you expect a full Russian menu here, forget it. Yes, the chef makes a very good beet borscht ($9) and a high-quality beef stroganoff beef stro·ga·noff n. Thinly sliced beef fillet sautéed and mixed with onions, mushrooms, sour cream, and herbs, often served on a bed of noodles or rice. ($25). Also, there's a surprisingly gratifying grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. sturgeon sturgeon, primitive fish of the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and North America. Unlike evolutionarily advanced fishes, it has a fine-grained hide, with very reduced scalation, a mostly cartilaginous skeleton, upturned tail fins, and a mouth set well back on the filet creation ($26) here, a moist filet coming forth topped with mozzarella moz·za·rel·la n. A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza. [Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, and bread crumbs, perched neatly on a bed of spinach and sauced with a sorrel-flavored cream. But the restaurant calls itself a "modern Russian steak house," and features mostly familiar, domestic-style steaks and chops. I like the Romanov version of a veal chop ($38). It's big and juicy and looks more like a veal T-bone steak. However, be aware that its onion accompaniment could come up cold. A medium-rare New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of cut buffalo steak ($36), delivered perfectly as ordered, yet needing some additional sides (there are several options), would probably taste much better with a drizzling of marchands de vin or similar sauce. The kitchen pleases diners with tiny complimentary amuse bouche beginnings. One night, an endive leaf was stuffed with bleu cheese and topped with a fresh raspberry. Another time, a tart tapenade ta·pé·nade n. A spread of Provençal origin consisting of capers, black olives, and anchovies puréed with olive oil. [French, from Provençal tapéno, capers.] Noun 1. spread on a small crisp arrived. A bowl of piroshki pi·rozh·ki also pi·rosh·ki pl.n. Small Russian pastries filled with finely chopped meat or vegetables, baked or fried. [Russian, pl. (turnovers stuffed with different fillings) is automatically served to dinner guests at no charge. For additional starters, refreshing, crunchy, chilled, whole-leaf romaine lettuce is featured on the nicely presented C-zar (Caesar) salad ($12). A tender piece of eight-hour-braised brisket brisket the mass of connective tissue and fat covering the anterior part of the chest in ruminants. Lies at the most ventral part of the neck, between the front legs and covering the anterior end of the sternum. ($15) satisfies any overpowering meat needs. The kitchen also cooks a pelmeni trio ($17). But pelmeni here seem to be fried and crunchy, stuffed, little samosas rather than traditional boiled, wet, fluffy dumplings topped with a daub of sour cream. One way to immediately get in tune with the surroundings at Romanov is by ordering a trio of iced, Russian vodka shots (three different brands, $24) and comparing them. Note that they can be shared quite easily. Something that is easily done and not discouraged at this fancy, new addition to the Valley dining scene. It's worth a toast. Nostrovia! Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com ROMANOV Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three and one half stars - Wine: Two and one half stars Where: 12229 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 760-3177. www.romanovla.com Meals/hours: Open for dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Food type: Modern Russian steak house. Cost: Starters from $11 to $18, entrees from $24 to $41, dessert from $7 to $9. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Possibly in future. Parking/valet: Valet only. City parking lot next door. Full bar: Yes. Wine/corkage: Passable pass·a·ble adj. 1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road. 2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency. 3. starting list. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $20. Music/entertainment: Nightly pianist and weekend staged musical performances planned. Takeout/delivery: Neither. Reservations: Suggested. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Samovar varenie -- Russian tea service with preserves -- as presented at Romanov restaurant in Studio City. Alex Collins/Special to the Daily News |
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