RUBY-RED GEMS EXPLODE WITH FLAVOR.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Despite winter's crop-damaging heavy rains, California's strawberry harvest is ahead of last year's by 9 percent.

``If the weather holds, we're on the way to a record-breaking season,'' notes Abby Taylor, spokeswoman for the Watsonville-based California Strawberry Commission. ``We anticipate producing 125 million trays this year, up from 117 million trays last year.''

If Mother Nature cooperates, consumers can indulge in a ruby treasure chest of excellent-quality, great-tasting berries throughout the year.

Acreage is also up this year with more than 32,600 acres planted, an increase of 3.2 percent or about 1,000 acres from 2004 - and a 30 percent increase in the last five years, in large part due to the demand for a year-round crop (which started in the late '90s) along with plantings of new varieties, adds Taylor. Yield per acre averages 26 tons.

California produces 88 percent of the nation's strawberry crop with 25 percent reserved for frozen or processed items and an additional 10.5 percent exported to Japan, Canada and other countries.

Per capita consumption of strawberries has doubled in the last 30 years, going from 3.24 pounds per person in 1974 to 6.4 pounds last year. According to a 2003 commission survey, 97 percent of American households purchase strawberries - and although they are used in a variety of ways, they are most often consumed at home ``as is'' and in restaurants in desserts.

``It takes 10 weeks from planting to harvesting the first berries,'' points out Kirk Larson, a fruit scientist from the University of California at Davis, who is stationed in Irvine and works on breeding strawberries and production technology.

A strawberry plant produces fruit continually for six to eight months, depending on the growing region or other factors.

Strawberries are grown in various areas, including Oxnard, Orange County, Ontario, Coachella Valley, San Diego, Santa Maria, Watsonville/Salinas, Fresno, Merced and Sacramento, with some regions doing two plantings a year. Sometimes a few locations may even be in production simultaneously, depending on the season.

When buying, look for plump, dry, firm, well-shaped, shiny and uniformly colored berries with fresh, green leafy caps. Avoid any moldy, greenish, white-shouldered, bruised, leaking, tired or dried-out fruit.

Remember that strawberries, unlike some other fruits, don't ripen after picking.

``Size and color are not indicative of flavor,'' notes Larson, adding that small berries are no more flavorful than large ones. ``It's essential that the berries have a fragrant, berrylike aroma; otherwise they won't have a lot of flavor. Hold the container up to your nose.''

To properly store berries at home, ``Put them (unwashed, unhulled) into a Tupperware, Rubbermaid or hard plastic container with a dry paper towel on the bottom, seal up tightly and store in the refrigerator,'' advises Linda Dullam, co-owner of Mandalay Berry Farm and Great Berries in Oxnard, which runs a roadside stand at Victoria and Fifth Street.

``Keep (them) cold and dry and away from refrigerator air to keep them from dehydrating.''

Wash and hull just prior to using.

If you buy berries at a farmers market or roadside stand, ``ask for a taste - and if they won't give you one, shop elsewhere,'' adds Dullam, who, with her husband, has been growing strawberries for 21 years.

A cup of strawberries has about 46 calories, 86 milligrams vitamin C, 11 grams carbohydrates, 0.6 grams fat (0 saturated), 3.5 grams dietary fiber, 2 milligrams sodium and 0 cholesterol.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

STRAWBERRY AND BRIE BRUSCHETTA 

12 slices French bread, cut 1/2-inch thick

1/3 cup butter, softened

1/3 cup packed brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

12 slices (about 12 ounces) Brie cheese 

1 1/2 pounds (about 4 to 5 cups) sliced, stemmed fresh strawberries

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup sliced almonds, toasted

Spread 1 side of each bread slice with butter; arrange, butter side up, on a large baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle 1 teaspoon over each slice of bread. Reserve remaining sugar mixture. Toast bread in a preheated 375-degree oven 5 minutes. Remove from oven. Top each with 1 slice cheese; return to oven. Bake an additional 4 to 6 minutes or until cheese is melted (watch carefully). Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine strawberries, vanilla and remaining sugar mixture; toss lightly. Place two bruschetta on each serving plate. Spoon 1/3 cup strawberry mixture over each; sprinkle with almonds. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

COCONUT STRAWBERRY CAKE

CAKE:

2 cups sifted cake flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 large eggs, separated

1 cup ``lite'' coconut milk

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

ICING:

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 

3 large egg whites

1 teaspoon coconut extract

CAKE ASSEMBLY:

1/2 cup strawberry preserves

4 cups (about 1 1/4 pounds) whole stemmed fresh strawberries

1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted

To make Cake: Place oven rack in bottom third of oven. Spray 2 (8-inch) round layer cake pans with nonstick cooking spray. Line bottom of each pan with a circle of parchment paper, spray paper and dust inside of each pan with all-purpose flour, tapping out excess. Sift together cake flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

In bowl of an electric mixer with paddle attachment, cream butter at medium speed until soft and light. Add sugar and continue to beat about 5 minutes or until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating after each addition until completely mixed. On low speed, alternately add flour mixture in 3 additions and coconut milk in 2 additions, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Add extract and beat at low speed until completely mixed.

In a clean bowl with whisk attachment, beat egg whites at high speed to soft peaks. Gently fold 1/3 of egg whites into batter; fold in remaining egg whites gently but thoroughly. Divide batter between prepared cake pans. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven about 30 to 35 minutes or until cakes spring back when touched and toothpick inserted into center comes out clean. Cool on rack 5 minutes; run a small knife around edge of each pan and carefully invert cake onto rack. Remove pan and cool cake completely; remove paper before assembling cake.

To make Icing: In a small saucepan combine sugar, water and cream of tartar. Bring to a boil, covered, over medium heat; do not stir. When sugar is completely dissolved, uncover and boil 5 minutes longer. In bowl of an electric mixer with a whisk attachment, beat egg whites at high speed to soft peaks. Continue to beat while slowly pouring hot syrup onto egg whites; add extract and beat until cool. To assemble Cake: Spread 1/4 cup preserves on top of 1 cake layer. Thinly slice 2 cups strawberries and arrange in 1 layer on top of preserves. Spread remaining 1/4 cup preserves on bottom of second cake layer and invert onto first layer. Spread icing on top and sides of assembled layers; pat coconut onto sides of cake.

Arrange remaining whole strawberries on top of cake, stem side down. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

MEXICAN FRUIT SALAD

4 cups (about 1 1/4 pounds) halved, stemmed fresh strawberries

2 cups mango chunks

2 cups melon chunks

1 cup pineapple chunks

1/2 cup fresh orange juice

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons ancho chile powder

In a large bowl, combine strawberries, mango, melon and pineapple. Add orange juice, lime juice, sugar, salt and chile powder to taste; mix well. Makes 8 servings.

A treasure trove of varieties

Although there's often no way of knowing what variety of strawberry you're buying in the supermarket (the fruit isn't labeled), if you shop at farmers markets, you'll often find a few different options available. Inquire about the variety being sold - and ask to sample each so you can decide what you like best. Be sure to keep the berries cool and get them into the fridge as quickly as possible.

Remember that many factors, including maturity, environment and weather, can affect the flavor of strawberries, notes Kirk Larson, a University of California fruit scientist.

Here is a sampling of varieties along with Larson's comments on each:

--Albion: This new variety, developed by researchers at UC Davis and named after a town in Mendocino County, may eventually rival Camarosa, Diamante, Seascape and other types because the plants yield big, attractive fruit with wonderful flavor. The plant is disease-resistant and much easier to grow, too. Grown on a few hundred acres in Watsonville, Salinas and Santa Maria. Harvested in spring, summer and fall.

--Aromas: Patented in 1996, this plant produces a medium, firm fruit with great flavor, dark red color, a bright sheen and good shelf life. Harvested April through October. Grown in the Watsonville/Salinas district, this minor commercial variety is very productive, producing more fruit per acre than the Camarosa variety.

--Camarosa: Released in 1993, this variety produces large, bright, dark red, firm, flavorful, shiny fruit. Ships and stores well - has a 10- to 14-day shelf life (which has revolutionized the strawberry industry), if properly handled. Grown mostly in Oxnard - and harvested from mid-December until July. Also grown in Santa Maria and in a small amount on the coast in the Watsonville area.

--Camino Real: This variety has been grown commercially for the last four years. It yields firm, dark red fruit with excellent flavor and a long shelf life. Has a relatively high resistance to common plant diseases and tolerates rain fairly well. ``Unfortunately, it hasn't caught on to the extent that strawberry enthusiasts would like,'' notes Larson. Grown mainly in Santa Maria and harvested March through July.

--Diamante: Patented in 1996 and released to the industry in 1997, this variety has large, flavorful, firm fruit with a reddish-orange color, a pale almost white interior and a shelf life almost as long as Camarosa. Grown primarily in the Watsonville and Salinas areas - and harvested April through November - this is the main variety found in supermarkets today and at farmers markets during late spring and summer.

--Gaviota: Commonly sold at farmers markets, this variety has never become commercially important because of its erratic production pattern and low yields (three-quarters of the yield of Camarosa), notes Larson. A softer, smaller fruit with a rich red color and excellent flavor.

--Mara des Bois: You might find these at farm stands, but this French variety is not really grown commercially. The yield is minimal, and the fruit is small with soft flesh. Harvest costs are exorbitant, notes Larson, adding that the texture is slightly mealy and flavor ranges from good to nothing special.

--Seascape: A medium-size, soft, nicely flavored, red berry that's grown in the central coast area. Was a moderately important commercial crop from 1990 to the mid-'90s. Harvested from April to November. Look for this variety at farmers markets.

--Ventana: This variety has been grown commercially for the last four years, with acreage planted continuing to increase yearly. Grown statewide, fruit is harvested December through June. Ventana yields more fruit per plant early in the season (December through March) than the Camarosa. Has a softer texture than Camarosa, bright red color (lighter in color than Camarosa), good flavor, maintains a nice conical shape and has a long shelf life similar to Camarosa.

--Proprietary/other varieties: Many farms in California are contracted to grow proprietary varieties for specific companies that have their own breeding programs and have developed them. Other farms grow publicly available plants bred by the University of California, which is committed to the ongoing research and development of new varieties as well.

More than 35 percent of the acreage farmed in California is planted in proprietary varieties while the rest is UC varieties (including 23 percent of acreage in Diamante, 20 percent in Camarosa, 15 percent in Ventana and 5 percent in other varieties such as Gaviota, Selva, Aroma, Albion and Chandler).

- N.H.

Strawberry equivalents

--A 1-pound container equals about 3 cups whole berries.

--1 cup sliced berries equals six to 10 whole berries.

--1 cup whole berries equals about eight medium berries.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) RED alert!

It's strawberry season

(2 -- color) STRAWBERRY AND BRIE BRUSCHETTA

(3 -- color) COCONUT STRAWBERRY CAKE

(4 -- color) MEXICAN FRUIT SALAD

Box:

(1) A treasure trove of varieties (see text)

(2) Strawberry equivalents (see text)