ROYCE'S A SAVORY MERGER.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The joining of an award-winning local barbecue chef with the former owner of the city's last big-time Cajun-Creole dining spot has emerged as the intriguing Royce's Cafe Orleans in West Los Angeles.

Gumbo-jambalaya-crawfish etouffee fanciers who don't mind a meaty rack of pork baby backs or an attractively thin-sliced barbecued tri-tip plate once in a while will welcome Rick Royce's juicy barbecue goodies and Mary Atkinson's ex-Orleans kitchen staff's expertise, now in tandem.

The compact, single dining room facility of Royce's previously more rustic eatery has been dressed up with white tablecloths, French doors, a neon-lit open-beam ceiling and walls hung with the sprightly works of Cajun artist Rodrigue.

No doubt the prices are a trifle higher, but the menu is filled with many of those Cajun-style cravings that our Prudhomme-ized palates have been missing since Atkinson closed the Orleans' doors for good in early January.

Tender, tasty Cajun popcorns of lightly fried, sherried crawfish ($8.95) is a great way to start here, either by sharing the ample serving or handling it yourself.

Or you can dig into a half-slab of Royce's impeccable, smoked, baby back pork ribs, always meaty, juicy and firmly textured, served with his thankfully not-too-sweet dipping sauce, balanced perfectly between piquant and tart.

There are also the soup options, a creamy tomato-crawfish bisque ($5.95) of undeniably gratifying qualities or a gumbo du jour ($5.95) - preferably the andouille sausage-chicken recipe with a hearty, peppery kick and plenty of traditional satisfactions.

Skip the Caesar ($5.95) here, delivered on a teeny glass plate and without noticeable oomph. Instead, go for the soups or share a combo platter ($9.95) of creamy chicken maquechoux perked up with bell peppers and corn niblets paired with classic meat jambalaya containing tasso ham, andouille sausage, chicken and beef. There are also little dollops of red beans and rice on the plate.

You'll find mostly shrimp, fair in crunch, size and taste, and those delicious crawfish again, in the etouffee entree ($14.95), dark from a rich, brown roux, medium spicy and served with rice.

And if you don't mind soft meatloaf - I prefer the firmer kind - then you'll like the brown gravy-doused Orleans version ($9.95) brought out with mashed potatoes and vegetables.

And yeah, there are four pasta opportunities (they've gotta have 'em, I guess), the best perhaps being the fettuccine tossed with a shrimp, andouille sausage, tasso ham, chicken, beef and red chile mixture, the dish bearing the title Natchitoches pasta ($12.95).

House-baked Jalapeno cheddar rolls come rolling out with two other ``lagniappe'' alternatives when you're seated. They are those good banana nut and blackstrap molasses muffins remembered from Orleans, Atkinson's shuttered restaurant that is.

Beverage choices? Drink Voodoo brew ($3.75) or sip a fiery Cajun wine martini ($4) made with chardonnay.

The Cafe Orleans `` 'cuejun'' alliance appears to be jelling well. Chez Royce is rollin' with Atkinson's Louisiana connection.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Royce's Cafe Orleans.

Where: 10916 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays and for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Cajun popcorn, gumbo, tomato crawfish bisque, jambalaya, chicken maquechoux, red beans and rice, barbecued pork baby back ribs, barbecued tri-tip, seafood etouffee, Natchitoches pasta (fettuccine with tasso ham, andouille sausage, shrimp, chicken, beef and dried red chiles), bread pudding, chocolate mocha cake, Cajun chardonnay martini, Voodoo brew.

How much: Starters from $5 to $9, entrees from $9 to $15, desserts $3 and $4. Beer and wine. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Small list of 15 wines with some thoughtful picks, but no red zinfandel to go with the barbecued fare and no vintage dates. Four bottles under $20, none over $28. Dixie Voodoo and other bottled brews available. Try the peppy wine martini. Corkage: $7.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Two Stars for wine.

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Photo

Photo: Baby back ribs with baked beans and coleslaw is one of the dinners available at Royce's Cafe Orleans in West Los Angeles.

Evan Yee/Daily News