ROMANCING VENICE.Byline: Barbara De Witt De Witt, uninc. town (1990 pop. 8,244), Onondaga co., central N.Y., a residential suburb of Syracuse. Daily News Staff Writer ``Open my heart and you will see graved inside of it, `Italy.' '' - Robert Browning Shakespeare immortalized it when he wrote the ``Merchant of Venice,'' but the tiny Northern Italian city on the Adriatic sea Adriatic Sea (ādrēă`tĭk), arm of the Mediterranean Sea, between Italy and the Balkan Peninsula. It extends c.500 mi (800 km) from the Gulf of Venice, at its head, SE to the Strait of Otranto, which leads to the Ionian Sea. has suffered a bad rap in recent years. There's no nice way to say it: It smells. Over the years, travelers have complained about its stagnant water and headed to Florence for art and Milan for fashion. But thanks to the movies, a lot of us are holding our noses and rediscovering the romantic charms of Venice. Heck, it's even made the top 10 list for best honeymoon destinations, according to according to prep. 1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians. 2. In keeping with: according to instructions. 3. this month's Bridal Guide magazine, which describes it as a city that ``raises the art of falling in love to a higher level.'' Sure, the water in the city's numerous narrow canals still smells a little (about the same as Westlake Lake in Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. on a hot day) but there's nothing quite like it, which you'll quickly see in two new period films, ``Wings of the Dove'' and ``Dangerous Beauty.'' ``Dangerous Beauty'' dates back to the city's decadent 16th-century roots when courtesans were the only women allowed to read books and wear sexy clothes, while ``Wings of the Dove'' takes place in 1910 and features some outrageous Dolce dol·ce Music adv. & adj. In a gentle and sweet manner. Used chiefly as a direction. [From Italian, sweet, from Latin dulcis.] Adv. 1. & Gabbana-inspired fur-trimmed peignoirs. But Venice hasn't changed much. And that's the real beauty of it. ``Every filmmaker dreams of shooting in Venice. Each dawn, each sunset in this timeless, decaying city, which is at once immortal and transient, reminds us of everything that is beautiful and tragic in life,'' said Iain Softley, the director and producer of ``Wings of the Dove.'' Obviously enchanted en·chant tr.v. en·chant·ed, en·chant·ing, en·chants 1. To cast a spell over; bewitch. 2. To attract and delight; entrance. See Synonyms at charm. by Venice, Softley passed on computer-enhanced sets and shot his film on location using real homes and city scenes, so what you see in the film is what you'll experience for yourself. Water, water everywhere I fell in love with Venice this winter, traveling by train from Munich through snow-covered alps and the new, incredibly long-and-dark tunnel through Brenner Pass Brenner Pass (brĕ`nər), Ital. Brennero, Alpine pass, 4,495 ft (1,370 m) high, connecting Innsbruck, Austria, with Bolzano, Italy. , arriving in Northern Italy Northern Italy comprises of two areas belonging to NUTS level 1:
As I stepped out of the train station, I was shocked to see that I was already on the water's edge. With all those pastel-colored buildings reflected on the water, it was just as Shakespeare and Henry James described it and Ettore Tito painted it. Except there's a lot more water than I expected. If you don't like boat rides, stay home. Venice is actually a lagoon of 18 islands linked by 160 canals and 600 bridges, and if you can't get somewhere by foot, you'll have to take a boat, whether it's the ultra-romantic gondola (a small flat-bottomed, man-powered boat) or a public, motor-powered water taxi water taxi n. A ferryboat that takes passengers to a variety of possible destinations instead of operating over a fixed route. . At least once, splurge and take the gondola, hopefully with a lover. The boatmen, called gondoliers, really do sing as they guide their sleek black lacquered boats up and down the canals, but you'll pay dearly for it - as much as $50 per person, depending on the season and the boat's decor, which can include lavish leopard print cushions or maybe red satin seats. To get the best deal, walk up and down the Grand Canal Grand Canal, Chinese Da Yunhe [large transit river], longest in the world, extending c.1,000 mi (1,600 km) from Beijing to Hangzhou, E China, and forming an important north-south waterway on the North China Plain. The canal was started in the 6th cent. B.C. and ``kick tires,'' without letting the gondoliers know your heart is set on the boat with the leopard print. The larger water taxi is the equivalent of a bus. It's cheap, quick and no-frills, and although you may have to stand next to strangers, you'll get the same great panoramic view of the city and the open sea, especially if you're heading off to one of the nearby islands like Murano. They've been making fabulous glassware on this small island - a 15-minute speedboat ride from Venice - since 1291. At the factories, you can actually watch them at their craft. It's a rare art form in which the artist blows the entire design - a horse, rabbit or vase - in one breath. Then he makes it again in another color, and then heats and twists the colors together so that it looks like colored glass inside clear glass. Glassware from Murano is top-quality crystal, unlike some you'll find in the souvenir shops, but it's extremely pricey. Expect to pay about $300 for a hefty 12-inch animal and up to $1,000 for a tall urn or vase that's been dipped in 24-karat gold and trimmed with porcelain flowers. But don't be afraid to bargain. I was willing to carry my purchases from the Mazzocatto factory on the plane instead of having them mailed, and saved a lot. The salesman also had the date, the city and my name engraved en·grave tr.v. en·graved, en·grav·ing, en·graves 1. To carve, cut, or etch into a material: engraved the champion's name on the trophy. 2. on each piece, threw in a little gift of a crystal horse statue, gave me some official papers for my insurance agent in case of theft, and then gave everyone in my party a free ride back to the hotel. City for shoppers Like other art forms, there are trends. The huge vases and free-form candy dishes are always popular choices, but this year the novelty is fishbowls. The colored glass is shaped like a round fishbowl with blue ``water'' in the bottom and ``goldfish'' swimming in it. You can find them at numerous shops in Venice, including Spadaria in the San Marco area, starting at about $20 for a Dixie cup-sized bowl. Glass beads in bright colors are another tourist attraction Noun 1. tourist attraction - a characteristic that attracts tourists attractive feature, magnet, attractor, attracter, attraction - a characteristic that provides pleasure and attracts; "flowers are an attractor for bees" and you can buy a small bracelet for $10. If they look too touristy to you, try the beautiful garnet-colored glass bracelets at the Furla boutique. They're about $20 but are more elegant. And while you're there, check out the well-priced handbags. Italy is equally famous for its leather goods, and if you shop long enough off the beaten tourist paths of Venice, you'll come across some local artisans who have beautiful purses for under $200 with the pricey looks of a Ferragamo or Versace handbag. Fine leather goods are also important for pets in this city, and there are several shops featuring handmade collars, harnesses and leashes. You'll also want to look at all the carnival masks. In 1979, the city's tourist office tourist office n → oficina de turismo tourist office tourist n → syndicat m d'initiative tourist office tourist n allowed the return of the Venetian Carnival, so once again, masks are a big deal, similar to those sold in New Orleans New Orleans (ôr`lēənz –lənz, ôrlēnz`), city (2006 pop. 187,525), coextensive with Orleans parish, SE La., between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, 107 mi (172 km) by water from the river mouth; founded and more likely to hang on a living room wall than actually be used for a party. You'll quickly discover that Venice is one of the most expensive cities in Italy. Bring lots of cash and credit cards. Everything is expensive. A small slice of pizza and a Coke at a fast-food eatery will cost the equivalent of $10, while a plate of spaghetti with meat sauce, a small green salad and a glass of house wine will cost $50 and up at most of the restaurants along the scenic waterfront of the Grand Canal. (You're paying for ambience and a view). Other places include the tax, tip and service charge in their bill, but be sure to look at the small print on the menu posted outside, and also ask before you sit down. The hotel staff recommended Ristorante Da Mario Alla Fava on Calle Stagneri for our first dinner in Venice, and it was wonderful. It was intimate, with art on the walls and beautifully set tables and suave waiters - just like you've seen in the movies. The lasagna was the best ever, but we paid about $20 for it. Other good dining experiences that were more pricey included Ristorante Al Colombo and Al Pirata. The latter makes terrific flaming desserts, but they've got lots of hidden service charges, so be careful. By the time the smoke cleared, the pasta dinner for six was close to $500. If you're into name-dropping, don't miss Harry's Bar Harry's Bar is a bar and restaurant located in Venice, Italy. History Harry's Bar was opened in 1931 by bartender Giuseppe Cipriani.[1] According to the company history, Harry Pickering--a rich, young Bostonian--had been frequenting Hotel Europa in Venice, on Calle Vallaresso. Besides shopping and riding a gondola, you'll want to sip espresso or Italian hot chocolate (it's as thick as pudding) in the Piazza San Marco Piazza San Marco, often known in English as St Mark's Square, is the principal square of Venice, Italy. . The piazza is surrounded by the same designer boutiques you'd find on Rodeo Drive Rodeo Drive (IPA: /roʊˈdeɪoʊ/) generally refers to a famous three-block long stretch of boutiques and shops in Beverly Hills, California, United States, although the street stretches further north and south. in Beverly Hills Beverly Hills, city (1990 pop. 31,971), Los Angeles co., S Calif., completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles; inc. 1914. The largely residential city is home to many motion-picture and television personalities. , plus you've got a grand view of the San Marco Basilica, a stunning example of Byzantine architecture Byzantine architecture Building style of Constantinople (now Istanbul, formerly ancient Byzantium) after AD 330. Byzantine architects were eclectic, at first drawing heavily on Roman temple features. , decorated with huge horse statues on the exterior and painted ceilings on the inside. And in the center of the piazza, vendors sell postcards, sweatshirts and bird seed for the pigeons. Feeding the pigeons is a tradition here, and unless low-flying birds scare you, it's great fun. Just hold the food out in your hand, and a dozen or more pigeons will line up on your arm. Tourists can take guided tours arranged by hotel staffs, but Venice is so small that, armed with a small guidebook and a map, you can see the city and its numerous churches, museums and shops at your own pace in a couple of days. There are signs on many of the walls, with arrows pointing to the city's highlights, including the Doge's Palace The Doge's Palace is a gothic palace in Venice (Italian Palazzo Ducale di Venezia). The current palace was largely constructed from 1309 to 1424 on 9th century origins, designed perhaps by Filippo Calendario. just off the Piazza San Marco, built as a residence for early Venetian rulers, called doges. You'll know you're there when you see the huge column with the winged lion on top. More signs point to the Academy of Fine Arts, which houses the work of Venetian masters such as Titian Titian (tĭsh`ən), c.1490–1576, Venetian painter, whose name was Tiziano Vecellio, b. Pieve di Cadore in the Dolomites. Of the very first rank among the artists of the Renaissance, Titian had an immense influence on succeeding generations , Tintoretto and Paolo Veronese, as well as the Ponte dei Sospiri (``The Bridge of Sighs''), and the Rialto Bridge Rialto Bridge (rēäl`tō), Ital. Ponte di Rialto, bridge of Venice, NE Italy, over the Grand Canal, connecting Rialto and San Marco islands. Built between 1588 and 1591, it consists of a single marble arch and has arcades lined with shops. , where you'll see shoppers hurrying to the marketplace in the daytime and couples strolling under the stars or stopping to watch the boats go by. Most people don't go to dinner until 8 or 9 p.m, and walking and talking with friends is a popular activity here, just as in any small town. For tourists there are the boat rides, a carnival strip along the water with rides and games, and street vendors hawking ice cream and popcorn. But try to get some sleep, as the canals are noisy with boat traffic at dawn. HISTORIC LANDMARKS Piazza San Marco - A spacious courtyard for basking in the sun with a cup of espresso, shopping in designer boutiques or visiting the San Marco Basilico and the nearby Doge's Palace. The Canal Grande - This is the main drag in Venice, the place to catch a boat or stroll the waterfront. Most of the big hotels line the canal and you'll recognize it and the Rialto Bridge from Venice-based movies. Museums - From colorful Tintorettos to contemporary works, visit Galerie dell'Accademia, Scuola di San Rocco, Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Ca' d'Oro and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is a small museum on the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy. It is one of several museums of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation. Containing prinicipally the personal art collection of Peggy Guggenheim (1898–1979), a former wife of artist Max . Island of Murano - Famous for its glass factories. Island of Burano - Famous for fishermen's nets and handmade lace. Island of Lido - This is the island for laying on the beach in your skimpiest swimsuit. SOUVENIR TIP SHEET Shopping in Venice? Here's what the city is famous for: Murano glassware and beads. Leather handbags. Marbled mar·bled adj. 1. Made of or covered with marble: a marbled façade. 2. Having a mix of fat and lean: a well-marbled beef roast. Adj. 1. writing and gift wrapping paper. Decorative carnival masks. Handmade 18-karat jewelry, including charms shaped like gondolas and bridges. Lace and embroidered em·broi·der v. em·broi·dered, em·broi·der·ing, em·broi·ders v.tr. 1. To ornament with needlework: embroider a pillow cover. 2. fabrics from the island of Burano. Gilded gild 1 tr.v. gild·ed or gilt , gild·ing, gilds 1. To cover with or as if with a thin layer of gold. 2. To give an often deceptively attractive or improved appearance to. 3. wood-carved sculptures, including winged lions. - Barbara De Witt CAPTION(S): 2 Photos, 2 Boxes Photo: (1--Color) The Piazza San Marco is lined with designer boutiques. Here the city's most fashionable gather for conversation and coffee. (2--Color) Venice's Grand Canal is the main drag through the city. It's filled with tiny gondolas, speed boats and huge water taxis delivering passengers to hotels and restaurants along the waterfront. Barbara De Witt/Daily News Box: (1) HISTORIC LANDMARKS (See Text) (2) SOUVENIR TIP SHEET (See Text) |
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