RIVER ENTERPRISE IS NO GAMBLE IN LAUGHLIN, THE COLORADO IS COOL AND REASSURING PRESENCE.

Byline: Story by Jerry Rice Staff Writer

LAUGHLIN, Nev. - Vlora Lafferty knew she had a good thing. A very good thing.

Not one to let herself get pushed around by a giant corporation, she wasn't about to part with her one-acre sliver of land fronting the Colorado River for just any price. A giant gaming concern, Circus Circus Enterprises Inc. (now the Mandalay Resort Group), offered $250,000, then $500,000 and, later, $1 million tax free.

A tidy sum, 20 or so years ago. But it wasn't enough, because the woman in her late 70s thought what she had was priceless: a front-row seat to the cool, clear, crystalline waters flowing before her, a scene that stood in stark contrast to the desert all around.

``There's nothing like living on the river,'' she would say. ``Besides, if I left, there's no place else I would want to go.''

Then came the proverbial offer she couldn't refuse: $2.5 million tax- free, plus a suite on the top floor of a yet-to-be-built tower at the Edgewater Hotel & Casino, where she could live rent-free for life.

Deal.

It's a story told several times daily by the likes of Larry Leger, a longtime Laughlin resident who guides the river cruise ship Edgewater Belle.

``I would see her sitting down by her dock and wave to her all the time,'' said Leger, who has been conducting sightseeing river tours since 1981.

With an attraction like the Colorado River, it's no surprise that every casino takes full advantage. It's evident from the names - the Riverside Resort Hotel & Casino and the Edgewater - to the designs of each property. Unlike casinos elsewhere that tend to shut out the rest of the world, the ones here have huge windows where you can take in the scenic river and the Black Mountains in Arizona just beyond as you feed the slots or dine in a restaurant.

The hotels also have hundreds of river-view rooms. The Flamingo Hilton, which opened in 1990 and is the last big property to be built along Casino Drive, has maximized the viewing opportunity with a flattened V-shaped design and protruding windows that allow a look at the Colorado from 80 percent of its 1,912 rooms.

Some of the hotels even have beaches. Harrah's Laughlin Casino & Hotel, which sits at the south end of the major grouping of properties that fronts the river, boasts the largest mix of sand and surf in town. There's ample room for sunning (on a recent visit a number of people were relaxing on lounge chairs set up in the water), socializing and even a game of beach volleyball.

An added plus: Because the beach is in a natural cove, it's a kid-friendly place to play in the river.

Concerned about getting too much sun? No problem. The way Harrah's is situated (and the other properties, too, for that matter), the hotel tower begins shading the pool and much of the beach area by midafternoon. It remains plenty warm, though, particularly in the summer, to continue splashing in the water - both the fresh and chlorinated varieties - until well after the sun has made its descent.

And if bronze is your skin color of choice, not to worry because there are plenty of morning and early afternoon hours to work on that tan.

The river shows up around town in other ways, too. The ``R'' word seems to be a popular choice among businesses. And the Ramada Express has found another way to work it in: The train-themed casino, which sits across the street from the Colorado, has a slot club contest that continues through Sept. 2 with the top prize being a river-view home.

In Laughlin, it's easy to make the case that the real action takes place on the river, not in the casinos.

Personal watercraft of various styles and sizes cut paths in the water up and down the river. Wave runners and speedboats are available from private operators at many of the casinos (rental fees vary from $35 to $79 an hour, depending on the day of the week and how long they're out).

Water taxis are busy taking gamblers from casino to casino, or between the casinos and parking lots on the other side of the river in Arizona. At $1-$2 a ride (top speed averages 25 mph, but it seems faster), the ferries sure beat trekking all the way back to the hotel parking tower and driving.

Add those tour boats - such as the one Leger pilots - plus kayaks, inner tubes and other assorted water toys, and the river can become one hectic place.

The casual observer might expect to see plenty of accidents, especially considering that nobody's around to choreograph the activity. But mishaps reportedly are few.

In just about any climate, the Colorado River would make an inviting playground. But in Laughlin, where summertime temperatures regularly reach the 110s and 120s, jumping in is the quickest way to cool down. (Escaping into an air-conditioned casino or the Horizon Outlet Center to do some bargain hunting is pretty effective, too.)

The water is so clear, you could drink it. In fact, millions do every day. There's a good chance that some of the water flowing from your kitchen faucet came from the Colorado River.

The tranquil feeling the river can bring (at least when it's not populated with powered-up watercraft) fits nicely with the laid-back lifestyle of Laughlin. In this town, getting dressed up means wearing blue jeans and a shirt with buttons and a collar.

It's a big draw for many visitors who bemoan the loss of the old Las Vegas.

``It isn't that the people who come here are a lower quality,'' said Don Laughlin, the man who bought a boarded-up motel in the mid-1960s that eventually became the Riverside. ``They're just looking for more of a down-home atmosphere. Everybody knows everybody else. Vegas is a real jungle of hotels. I love to go there myself, but I have a lot more fun down here.''

The numbers suggest it would indeed be easier to get to know one another in Laughlin. The community of 8,000 hosted 4.6 million visitors last year. Las Vegas, meantime, drew 35.8 million in 2000.

Money-saving specials are another attraction. The Pioneer Hotel & Gambling Hall advertises a four-piece fried chicken dinner, with mashed potatoes and gravy, coleslaw and a roll for $1.49. The Flamingo Laughlin has a T-bone steak or a shrimp and pasta lunch for $1.99.

Room rates are yet another big deal. Many times through the year, reservations can be had for $20 a night (and that's not per person).

Along the Las Vegas Strip, all 20 bucks will get you is two rolls of quarters.

``We share the same type of visitor as Mesquite (Nev.) or possibly downtown Las Vegas,'' said Meg McDaniel of the Laughlin Visitors Bureau. ``It's usually that customer who's looking for a good value for their money, for their hotel and their whole experience.''

In other words, someone who knows what it takes to earn a dollar - or 2.5 million of them, such as Vlora Lafferty.

Leger wraps each sightseeing cruise with the rest of her story. After accepting the offer for her property, which sat between the Edgewater and the Colorado Belle, Lafferty moved into a motel to await completion of the 964-room tower with her suite on the top floor. She also whiled away the time spending some of her new-found wealth, traveling the world picking out furnishings.

But she was never able to enjoy her suite; she died a couple of weeks before work was finished in February 1991.

``Out of respect to her, the Edgewater has never rented out the room on a permanent basis,'' Leger said.

So it sits empty most of the time, seeing use primarily for special gatherings. The suite is nicely appointed, but the feature Lafferty would have enjoyed most can't be purchased at any price - a spectacular view of the river.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: From the Los Angeles area, take Interstate 10 or the 60 freeway east to Interstate 15 north. In Barstow, go east on Interstate 40 to Needles Highway. (Remember, there is little in the way of services - gasoline, refreshments and otherwise - in the 145 miles between Barstow and Needles.) Then take Needles Highway north to Laughlin. It's a paved, two-lane road that dishes out a lot of ups and downs during its 26-mile route through through the hills. Turn off Needles Highway at Casino Drive to reach the resort hotels. An easier route on the stomach, although it's a longer one, is staying with I-40 east to Arizona 95 and go north.

BY AIR: Air Laughlin offers round-trip flights starting at $59 from Burbank, Long Beach and Ontario to Bullhead City, Ariz. (just across the river from Laughlin). The service will be beefing up its fleet of aircraft with a 48-passenger F-27 and a 115-passenger DC-9. Information: [phone]; www.airlaughlin.com.

DRIVING TIP: Before returning home, make a quick drive to the Arizona side of the river where - thanks to lower state gasoline taxes, different fuel formulas and other factors - prices are 30 to 35 cents a gallon less than they are in Nevada and California.

LODGING: During off-peak weeks (September after Labor Day weekend, December and early January), rooms can be found for as little as $20 a night. While Laughlin's average occupancy rate is 88 to 90 percent.

< SPECIAL EVENTS

Laughlin Weekend of Wheels: Street rods, muscle cars, antiques, classics and customs roll into town Sept. 7-9.

Laughlin Shoot-Out: Bull riders show their stuff Sept. 14-15 as they compete for placement in the National Finals Rodeo and the chance at nearly $100,000 in prize money.

Laughlin RiverFlight: Brilliantly colored hot-air balloons fill the skies around Laughlin Oct. 26-28. Lift-offs are each morning at 7, and there's also a nightly balloon glow. No admission charge.

Team Roping Finals: The U.S. Team Roping Championships returns for a fourth time, Nov. 16-17, with hundreds of contestants displaying their skills in an effort to win prizes. No admission charge.

Clouds Jamboree 2002: Gem, jewelry, fossil and mineral show, with events and exhibitions, Jan. 11-20, 2002, at several of the hotels.

LAUGHLIN ATTRACTIONS

RIVER CRUISES: The Edgewater, Flamingo and Riverside launch scenic river cruises several times daily. The narrated tours, which last between 75 and 90 minutes and cost about $10, are a leisurely way to learn about Laughlin's history while taking in the sights. Beer, wine, some mixed drinks and sodas are served on board. Parents should keep in mind that while the excursions are suitable for the entire family, some kids could become restless or bored near the end of the journey. Information: [phone] for the Edgewater and Flamingo; [phone] for the Riverside.

KIDS' PLAY: Don's Kid Kastle at the Riverside Resort Hotel & Casino offers a safe, supervised environment for children between 3 months and 12 years. It affords parents the opportunity to drop off their kids and not worry about them while they gamble or engage in other activities at the Riverside. Things to do include 14 arcade games, a bounce-and-play area and a room with a big-screen TV to watch movies. On a recent visit, my 5-year-old son had a blast, while my 9-year-old was at first disappointed because the E-rated Nintendo games like ``Sesame Street'' didn't offer enough action. Later, however, he said he wanted to go back the next time we're in town. Cost is $6 an hour, with a two-hour minimum (5 1/2 hours maximum). Information: [phone].

OLD WEST AMBIENCE: Go underground during a 45-minute guided tour of the Gold Road Mine, about 2 1/2 miles north of Oatman, Ariz. Learn about the history of the mine and mining, plus see some gold in the rock walls of the mine. (Unfortunately, no free samples.) Cost for the mine tour is $12 for adults, $6 for children 12 and younger. Information: [phone]. Also in the area of the gold mine are stage coach rides (October through April) on Bartels Stage Lines. A one-hour narrated tour is $25 for adults, $12.50 for children ages 3-12. Information: [phone].

CAPTION(S):

6 photo, 3 boxes

Photo:

(1) This beach on the Colorado River at Harrah's in Laughlin provides a restful getaway for families.

(2) U.S.S. Riverside Luxury Casino Cruiser skims along the Colorado River, taking visitors on a tour of the Laughlin and Bullhead City area, as well as Davis.

(3) Inner tubes are an inexpensive way to experience the river.

(4 -- color) A ferry that runs 24 hours a day, above, picks up visitors and hotel employees on the Arizona side of the Colorado River and deposits them on the Nevada side.

(5 -- color) Tour boats such as the Celebration, above, navigate the Colorado River amid water taxis, rented speedboats, wave runners and kayaks

(6 -- color) The traffic on the river is so brisk that many Laughlin hotels -including the Riverside- have built their own docks.

Edna Trunnell-Simpson/Staff Photographer

Box: (1) IF YOU GO (see text)

(2) SPECIAL EVENTS (see text)

(3) LAUGHLIN ATTRACTIONS (see text)