RISE TO THE OCCASION\The toast of Italy Crostini are versatile.

Byline: Cathy Thomas Orange County Register

Toppings on toast? Canapes a la 1950?

No way. Call them crostini or bruschette and you've got gutsy little Italian appetizers with an endless variety of Mediterranean-style toppings. These tasty antipasti show up on the menus of trendy Italian restaurants all over.

Slivers of toasted bread with sun-ripened tomatoes, garden-fresh basil leaves and fresh mozzarella. A thin layer of goat cheese or soft herb-garlic cheese spread topped with strips of roasted red bell peppers, capers and a drizzle of olive oil. Prosciutto and a shaving of Parmesan. Delicioso.

And perfect for home-style entertaining without fuss.

Although restaurants seem to use the terms crostini and bruschette interchangeably, generally bruschette are toasted just until crisp on the outside but soft at the center. Crostini (Italian for croutons) are sliced thinner and cooked until crisp and browned throughout.

Whether dubbed crostini or bruschette, they require delicious bread. Rustic country bread or hard-crusted herb bread. Breads stuffed with olives or slivers of sun-dried tomatoes. Slender baguettes (called sfilantini in Italian) with crispy exteriors and firm-textured centers.

But now home cooks can buy good, rustic breads at local bakeries, many markets and health-food stores.

Crostini and bruschette can be served hot, topped like miniature pizzas with tomatoes and cheese. But room-temperature versions are scrumptious and easier on the cook. Most of the work can be done in advance. And no last-minute heating.

To prepare the toast in advance, store Basic Crostini (recipe follows) in an airtight container at room temperature for as long as four days (without toppings). Or prepare Fresh Basil Crostini (recipe follows) one day in advance and store in an airtight container at room temperature (without toppings).

Toppings that require marinating time in the refrigerator, such as marinated roasted bell peppers or marinated fresh mozzarella, can be prepared a week in advance. Portobello mushrooms can be sauteed two days in advance, cooled and stored in the refrigerator; reheat in a skillet just before serving. Tomatoes can be seeded, juiced and chopped a day in advance. Combine with minced shallots and minced herbs - or capers, balsamic vinegar and a little olive oil - and refrigerate one day. Add salt and pepper to tomatoes just before serving.

Serve on a large platter lined with rosemary or thyme. Or place toppings in center of a large platter and surround with plain crostini. Guests can create their own versions.

You don't need a formal recipe for most toppings. Make either a Basic Crostini or Fresh Basil Crostini and let your imagination be your guide. Here are a few suggestions:

Tomato and Bacon: Chopped tomato (cut tomato in half and gently squeeze out seeds and juice; finely chop) combined with minced shallots and seasoned with salt and pepper. Top with crumbled crisp-cooked bacon. Garnish with small basil leaves.

Flavored Cream Cheese or Goat Cheese: In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine log-style goat cheese or cream cheese, minced sun-dried tomatoes (olive-oil packed and drained), ground black pepper, minced fresh basil and a little olive oil. Or purchase a prepared product, such as Alouette's Elegante (either the roasted sweet pepper and olive tapenade or sun-dried tomatoes and garlic).

Carmelized Leeks and Tomato: Cook chopped leeks (white part only) in olive oil on low heat until lightly browned (caramelized). Cool and combine with chopped tomato (seeds and juice removed) seasoned with salt, pepper and minced fresh thyme.

Feta and Olives or Tapenade: Spread a thin layer of feta cheese (that has been processed in a food processor with enough whipping cream to make it smooth and spreadable). Top with pitted black imported olives (such as Kalamata), drained, finely chopped and seasoned with minced fresh thyme. Garnish with a sliver of fresh tomato. Or buy tapenade (a thick paste made from olives, capers, anchovies and garlic) at a store that specializes in imported food products; spread it on top of cheese and top with a small fresh basil or parsley leaf.

Prosciutto and Pesto: A thin slice of prosciutto (dry-cured Italian ham) and a dollop of Artichoke Pesto from Trader Joe's. Drain the pesto first, by placing it in a small sieve. Garnish with a parsley leaf.

Prosciutto and Cheese: Top a layer of prosciutto with a thin shaving of Pecorino-Reggiano cheese and a small basil leaf or basil cut into thin strips.

Fresh Mozzarella and Tomato: Marinate 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, either bocconcini (marble-size balls cut in half sold at Italian markets and some supermarkets) or a large ball cut into small slices, in 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 clove garlic, minced, 1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Drain (but leave coating of marinade on the exterior) and place on crostini. Top with minced fresh basil.

Blue Cheese, Fresh Pear and Pecans: Thin blue cheese by whirling in a food processor with a little whipping cream or creme fraiche. Top with a small, thin slice of fresh pear (dipped in lemon water to prevent browning) and a plain or candied pecan half.

BASIC CROSTINI

About 1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

Garlic salt to taste

1 French OR rustic Italian baguette, thinly sliced

Combine olive oil, butter and garlic salt. Brush on both sides of bread slices.

Place on a baking sheet. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes or until nicely toasted and crisp.

Add toppings of choice (see the following recipes and suggestions above) and serve at room temperature. Makes 45 to 55 crostini.

NOTE: If preparing oil-butter mixture in advance, cool and store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 4 days; bring to room temperature and stir before using. If preparing crostini in advance, store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 4 days.

Recipe can be doubled or tripled. If desired, broil rather than bake crostini. Place slices about 5 inches from broiler element and broil 1 minute per side for bruschette, a little longer for crostini, watching carefully to prevent burning.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 47 calories; 3.3 grams fat; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 60 milligrams sodium.

FRESH BASIL CROSTINI

3/4 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil OR thyme OR rosemary

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, Italian parsley preferred

Salt to taste

1 French OR rustic Italian baguette, thinly sliced

Combine all ingredients except bread, mixing well. Brush mixture on both sides of bread slices.

Place slices on a baking sheet. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes or until nicely toasted and crisp.

To serve, add toppings of choice (see the following recipes) and serve at room temperature. Makes 45 to 55 crostini.

NOTE: If preparing in advance, cool and store in an airtight container up to 1 day.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION PER SERVING: 49 calories; 3.5 grams fat; 0 cholesterol; 61 milligrams sodium.

ROASTED BELL PEPPERAND CHEESE CROSTINI

4 red OR yellow bell peppers OR combination, roasted, peeled and seeded (see Note)

1 tablespoon capers, drained

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano OR 1 teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 3/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin preferred

4 ounces soft herb cheese, such as light OR regular Alouette OR Boursin OR log-style goat cheese, room temperature

1 recipe Plain OR Basil Crostini (see preceeding recipes)

In a glass, enamel or plastic container, combine sliced roasted peppers, capers, oregano, basil, salt and pepper. Pour in enough olive oil to cover peppers. Cover and refrigerate.

Spread cheese in thin layer on top of crostini. Drain peppers and place on top of cheese, making an X with 2 strips or placing 2 to 3 in a spiral. Makes 45 to 55 crostini.

NOTE: To roast bell peppers, line a baking sheet with a sheet of foil large enough to hang over both ends of sheet. Place peppers in single layer on top of foil.

Place about 8 inches below preheated broiler element and broil until charred and blistered, about 5 minutes. Rotate with tongs and repeat process until all sides are charred. Remove from oven and enclose peppers in foil 5 minutes. Open foil and let peppers cool enough to handle. Remove peel, stem and seeds; cut into slices. Or purchase jarred roasted bell peppers.

Roasted pepper mixture can be prepared at least 8 hours or up to 1 week in advance and stored in refrigerator. For most flavor, bring to room temperature before serving.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION PER SERVING: 60 calories; 4.5 grams fat; 4 milligrams cholesterol; 95 milligrams sodium.

CROSTINI CAPONATA 

1 eggplant, about 1 pound

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup canned tomato sauce

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 stalk celery, rinsed, trimmed and finely chopped

6 black olives, such as Kalamata, pitted and finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

1 recipe Plain OR Basil Crostini (see preceeding recipes)

Pierce eggplant with a fork in several places and set on a baking sheet.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 5 minutes or until eggplant is soft when pressed. Cool 5 minutes. Peel off skin and discard. Chop pulp finely.

In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and saute until softened and beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add eggplant, tomato sauce, vinegar, celery, olives, sugar and capers; simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Chill.

Stir in parsley and season to taste with salt, pepper and additional vinegar, if desired.

To serve, spoon caponata on top of crostini and serve. Makes about 45 crostini.

NOTE: Caponata can be stored, in an airtight container, in refrigerator, for up to 2 days. If made ahead, bring caponata to room temperature before serving. Prepared caponata is available at Italian markets and some supermarkets.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION PER SERVING: 68 calories; 4.5 grams fat; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 128 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from "Recipe Rescue Cookbook," from Eating Well magazine, Camden House Publishing.

CROSTINI WITHPORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS AND PARMESAN

2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 pound fresh portobello mushrooms, stems removed and coarsely chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 recipe Basic Crostini OR Fresh Basil Crostini (see preceeding recipes)

1/2 cup (about) thin shavings of Parmesan-Reggiano cheese OR Asiago cheese

Fresh Italian parsley leaves

In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until garlic is softened. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are soft and liquid has evaporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Top crostini with mushrooms and a thin shaving of cheese. Garnish with small leaves of parsley and serve. Makes about 20 crostini.

NOTE: Mushroom mixture can be cooled and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 2 days. Heat mushrooms before serving.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION PER SERVING: 85 calories; 6.5 grams fat; 5 milligrams cholesterol; 167 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from "Celebrations Italian Style" by Mary Ann Esposito, Hearst Books.

CROSTINI WITHWHITE-BEAN SALAD

1 can (15 to 19 ounces) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

3 tablespoons seeded, chopped tomatoes

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons minced shallots OR white part of green onions

2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon OR basil

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 recipe Plain OR Basil Crostini (see preceeding recipes)

Sprigs of fresh tarragon

Place beans in a bowl and mash about half of them with a fork. Stir in tomatoes, vinegar, shallots, tarragon, parsley, salt and pepper.

To serve, top crostini with bean mixture and garnish with 1 sprig of fresh tarragon or place a bowl in center of a large platter with a spoon and surround with crostini. Makes about 40 crostini.

NOTE: Bean mixture can be made 1 day in advance and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator, but leave out tomatoes. Add tomatoes not more than 2 hours before serving.

Canned cannellini beans are sold at Italian markets and some supermarkets. Canned white beans, such as Great Northern beans can be substitued.

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION PER SERVING: 64 calories; 3.4 grams fat; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 148 milligrams sodium.

Adapted from "Simply Elegant," from Food and Wine Books, American Express Publishing Corp.

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PHOTO

Photo no caption (Crostini) Nick Koon/Orange County Register