RIDE ON THE RAILS REVEALS SPLENDOR OF VERDE CANYON.

Byline: Eric Noland Travel Editor

CLARKDALE, Ariz. - Arizona has some of the most breathtaking scenery in the Southwest, but in this defiantly rugged state, only a fraction of it is interlaced with roads or hiking trails.

This fact may have run through the mind of railroad owner Dave Durbano a dozen years ago after he acquired an obscure freight line in the central part of the state. On his first ride from Clarkdale to Drake, his chin kept hitting his chest in wonderment.

The idea of a sightseeing train was hatched, and soon tourists were riding the Verde Canyon Railroad, marveling at narrow canyons, bald eagles, cliffside Indian ruins and broad river valleys.

The excursion, which celebrates its 10th anniversary in November, follows a rail line that stretches from Clarkdale to the former water stop of Perkinsville. Then the engine uses a siding to reposition itself at the opposite end of the train and returns along the same route.

More than half a century ago, the rail line was used to transport copper from the mines at Jerome, about six miles from Clarkdale, north to the Santa Fe's main line at Ash Fork. But the route was cut through a spectacular natural region, now part of the Prescott National Forest.

The area is otherwise accessible only to hikers with extremely sturdy boots and a great deal of persistence.

The train affords considerably more comfort - and obvious nostalgia. The restored Pullman cars date to the 1940s, the diesel locomotives to the 1950s. Small wonder the mean age of passengers on our midweek ride in May seemed to be about 77.

To maximize viewing, the train has several open-air cars. A guide also offers a running commentary along the four-hour afternoon trip.

The guide for our trip was Clay Miller, who moved to this region from the Hollywood Hills 13 years ago to conduct archaeological tourism expeditions out of nearby Sedona. Miller's narrative, delivered over the train's sound system, was a delightful mix of history, geology, songs, poems of his own composition, and American Indian stories and legends.

The train poked along at freight speed, bouncing and rocking and protesting the exertion.

It passed by an appalling expanse of slag left over from the mine's smelting operation - picture 40 acres of charred gunk reaching to a depth of 40 feet. It traversed S.O.B. Canyon (so named by the railroad workers who had to build a towering trestle over it in 1911). It treated us to the mesmerizing red and pink rocks of Sycamore Canyon, then passed through a 600-foot curved tunnel - the train passes within six inches of the walls in spots - before coming to a halt in the ranchland of Perkinsville.

When the mine was operating and steam engines needed water, this settlement was a fairly lively place, with about a dozen families, a school, a store, a post office. Now? ``When everybody's home,'' said the attendant in our car, ``the population's three.''

At one point along the way, Miller indicated a bald eagle, perched on a red-canyon cliff wall and staring blandly at us from about 100 yards away. Also, along the canyon bottom, several great blue herons were spotted.

The features of the ride change with the seasons. This time of year, the cottonwood and sycamore trees begin to provide some fall color. Winter is a prime time to see bald eagles. Springtime brings the yellow and peach-colored blooms of cactus flowers, as well as such wildflowers as desert marigolds and Blackfoot daisies. Because of the heat, summer is probably the least desirable, although you might get to see the desert in the midst of a dramatic thunderstorm.

IF YOU GO

The excursion is offered year-round. In the fall and spring, it operates daily except at 1 p.m. Tuesday (two rides on Saturdays). In the summer and winter, visitors are asked to call in advance for the schedule. Reservations at all times of the year are strongly recommended: [phone] or [phone]. Web: www.verdecanyonrr.com. Coach fare is $35.95 adults, $32.95 seniors (over 65), $20.95 children under 12. First-class fare is $54.95. Drinks and snacks are offered for sale on the train, and there is a picnic ground, cafe and gift shop at the depot.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- color) The Verde Canyon Railroad takes passengers on a nostalgic ride through breathtaking valleys.

(2 -- color) The diesel locomotives of the Verde Canyon Railroad are from the 1950s.

(3) Verde Canyon Railroad runs in a remote area of Arizona that features some spectacular and rugged scenery. The railway was originally used to haul smelted copper from Jerome's mines to a main line.

Eric Noland/Travel Editor

Box: IF YOU GO (See text)