RETRO REVIVAL SLOW COOKERS ARE BACK ON THE FAST TRACK.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Either you love 'em or hate 'em. Or you don't know much about them. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to slow cookers.

But the uninitiated can easily become converts once they experience this gem of an electric appliance and all it offers.

``I never owned and didn't use a slow cooker before I was asked to create `Williams-Sonoma Food Made Fast: Slow Cooker''' (Oxmoor House; $17.95), says Norman Kolpas, a Los Angeles-area food consultant and author of 40 cookbooks.

When approached to develop and test the recipes for this volume, his first thought was, ``How do you use those (slow cookers)?'' But he's quick to add that one of his favorite ways of cooking is slowly -- stews, braises, chilis. ``It was a chance to learn something new, a real adventure -- and I loved using the slow cooker.

``The real revelation for me was how easy it makes it to cook for your freezer,'' says Kolpas, whose recipes were designed to use a 6- or 7-quart pot.

Slow cookers have come a long way since the first Crock-Pot was introduced by Rival in 1971. About 80 percent of U.S. households now own a slow cooker, according to the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers.

Range of sizes, prices

Today, you'll find more fashionable and convenient cookers with more bells and whistles and in more colors, finishes and sizes than ever -- and in prices ranging from $10 to $250.

Pots now offer inserts that can be used for browning foods on the stovetop and in the oven, temperature probes, digital programming, auto-warm features and more, points out Amy Golino, culinary analyst for Jarden Consumer Solutions, parent company of Rival Crock-Pots. The 5- and 6-quart cookers are the most popular, she says.

Beth Hensperger, a food writer and the author of ``Not Your Mother's Slow Cooker: Recipes for Two'' (The Harvard Common Press; $12.95), her second slow-cooker volume (and 18th cookbook), is targeting a single or twosome audience this time around. ``When I was working on `Not Your Mother's Slow Cooker Cookbook,' written with Julie Kaufman, I had a gazillion single friends who kept asking, `Can I divide this in half, quarters, etc.,' and I was finding that it was easier to multiply than divide,'' she says, adding that it was released a year and a half ago, and has sold more than 100,000 copies.

Small is big

Then she became enamored of a small, oval 1 1/2-quart slow cooker (Proctor-Silex brand) with high, low and warm settings that works well for two people -- and the rest is history. The book's 125 recipes utilize 1 1/2- to 3 1/2-quart pots.

What surprised Hensperger most is that boneless, skinless chicken breasts could be done so fast in a slow cooker -- 2 hours on high -- and that jarred Alfredo sauce could be transformed into a pesto cream sauce that does not break down. ``The other thing that blew my mind is lasagna.''

Carlsbad resident Lynn Alley, author of ``The Gourmet Slow Cooker, Volume II, Regional Comfort-Food Classics'' (Chronicle Books; $18.95), approaches the appliance from a more upscale perspective. She touts the versatility of the pots with dishes that take anywhere from three to four hours or more, banishing the strictly eight- to 10-hour cooking notion often associated with the pots.

``Desperation, while living in a trailer on a farm with limited cooking facilities, got me into slow cooking,'' she says. The three top items on her slow cooker ``does well'' list are risotto, polenta and melting chocolate.

Judith Finlayson of Toronto showcases favorite recipes from her first three slow-cooker cookbooks, along with 60 new ones, in her ``175 Essential Slow Cooker Classics'' (Robert Rose; $24.95), with more than 100 color photos. ``I've become a fanatic slow cooker. There are things now that I just wouldn't do any other way -- pot roast, short ribs, chilis, stews, whole grains (wheat berries), stone-ground grits, polenta, fruit desserts and cheesecakes. It has changed the way I entertain, too, which is more casual now.''

Kitchen's `comeback kid'

Sandra Lee, author of ``Semi-Homemade Slow Cooker Recipes, Savory, Simple, Sensational Recipes That Taste Like They Were Made From Scratch'' (Meredith Books; $19.95), notes that ``people love slow cookers, and they cannot get enough of them. It is like the hot, chic comeback kid of the kitchen.

``I think they are getting more visibility, and younger people are seeing and liking them. A whole new generation who didn't know what they are has now been turned on to them. They realize they can literally dump and leave and come back to a fabulous meal.''

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

MOM'S BEST BBQ BRISKET 

3 1/2 pounds beef brisket

Salt and ground black pepper

1 large sweet onion, sliced

1 jalapeno chile pepper, diced (wear plastic or rubber gloves and avoid direct contact with skin and eyes to avoid burning them)

1 (1-ounce) packet onion soup mix

1 (14-ounce) bottle barbecue sauce

Trim fat from brisket. Sprinkle brisket with salt and black pepper; set aside. In a 5-quart slow cooker, arrange onion slices. Place brisket on top. Add jalapeno pepper and onion soup mix. Pour barbecue sauce over all.

Cover and cook on the high heat setting for 1 hour. Turn to the low heat setting; cook 8 to 10 hours more.

Makes 6 servings

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade Slow Cooker Recipes.''

WHOLE WHEAT SODA BREAD

1 cup whole wheat flour 

1 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon baking soda 

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cups buttermilk 

In a large bowl, mix together whole wheat and all-purpose flours, baking soda and salt. Make a well in the center, pour buttermilk into well and mix just until blended. Spread into a lightly greased 8x4-inch loaf pan or a 6-cup souffl(hrt) or baking dish (that will fit into slow cooker insert).

Cover pan (or dish) tightly with foil and secure with string. Place pan in a 5-quart (or larger if necessary) oval slow cooker stoneware and pour in enough boiling water to come 1 inch up sides of dish. Cover and cook on the high heat setting 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until bread springs back when touched lightly in the center. Unmold and serve warm.

Makes 1 loaf, 8 servings

From ``175 Essential Slow Cooker Classics,'' by Judith Finlayson.

ALE-BRAISED SHORT RIBS

4 to 5 pounds bone-in beef short ribs, cut into 3-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 thinly sliced yellow onions

3 cloves garlic, sliced

1 (2-pound) butternut squash, peeled and cut into chunks

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced plum (Roma) tomatoes

1 (12-ounce) bottle ale OR dark beer

3 tablespoons flour

Water

To brown short ribs, preheat broiler (grill). Generously season ribs on all sides with salt and pepper. Working in batches if necessary, arrange ribs on a broiler pan and place under the broiler. Broil (grill) ribs, turning once, until well-browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Transfer ribs to an oval 7-quart slow cooker.

Scatter onions and garlic over ribs. Add squash. Pour in tomatoes with their juice and ale. Cover and cook on the high heat setting 5 to 6 hours, or on the low heat setting 7 to 8 hours. The meat should be separating form the bones, and squash should be tender.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer ribs and squash to a shallow bowl or platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Skim off excess fat from surface of sauce. Put slow cooker on high heat setting. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and 1/4 cup water. Whisk flour mixture into sauce and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over ribs and squash and serve.

Makes 6 servings

From ``Williams-Sonoma Food Made Fast: Slow Cooker,'' recipes by Norman Kolpas.

BALSAMIC BRAISED CHICKEN WITH OLIVES

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 1/2 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken breast

2 onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

2 cups chopped, peeled tomatoes, including juice if canned

1/2 cup chicken stock OR broth

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped pitted black olives

2 tablespoons drained capers (optional)

In a skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat 30 seconds. Add chicken in batches and brown on all sides. Transfer to a 5-quart slow cooker stoneware insert.

Reduce heat to medium. Add onions to pan and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, salt, peppercorns and thyme and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes, stock and balsamic vinegar and bring to a boil.

Pour mixture over chicken. Cover and cook on the low heat setting 5 hours, or on the high heat setting 2 1/2 hours, until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with a fork. Add olives and capers and stir well. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings

From ``175 Essential Slow Cooker Classics,'' by Judith Finlayson.

APRICOT PRESERVES

8 ounces dried apricots

2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice

About 1 tablespoon grated orange zest

Combine apricots, orange juice and zest in a 2 1/2- or 3-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on the low heat setting about 4 hours, until thick and spoonable. Preserves will thicken as they cool, but if they need to thicken further, remove lid, increase heat to high and cook for another hour. Refrigerate and use within 1 week.

Makes about 1 cup

From ``The Gourmet Slow Cooker, Volume II, Regional Comfort-Food Classics,'' by Lynn Alley.

PULLED PORT WITH BARBECUE SAUCE

Pulled pork with barbecue sauce is a southern classic -- true comfort food. It's delicious in sloppy Joe sandwiches or all by itself over rice. For a lighter version, use half a turkey breast instead of pork.

2 pounds pork roast (any cut)

2 cups ketchup

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 cup water

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

5 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

Place pork in a 4 -or 5-quart slow cooker. In a bowl, combine ketchup, vinegar, water, onion, garlic, chili powder and Worcestershire sauce and stir well. Pour sauce over roast. Cover and cook on the low heat setting 8 to 10 hours, until meat falls apart. Remove pork from cooker and allow to cool slightly. Remove and discard any bones. Pull meat into shreds using your fingers or two forks. Return meat to cooker and stir into sauce. Serve warm in buns for sandwiches or over rice, as desired.

Makes 4 servings

From ``The Gourmet Slow Cooker, Volume II, Regional Comfort-Food Classics,'' by Lynn Alley. HOT COCOA CAKE

(on the cover)

Slow-cooked cake may be the most moist cake you'll ever eat. Chocolate pudding and scalded milk seep into the batter during baking, making the cake rich down to the crumbs. Melt marshmallows on top before serving.

2 cups milk

1 (18.25-ounce) box chocolate cake mix

1 1/4 cups water

3 large eggs

1/3 cup canola oil

1 (5-ounce) box chocolate cook-and-serve pudding mix

Miniature marshmallows

Chocolate-flavored syrup

Coat a 5-quart slow cooker with butter-flavor cooking spray; set aside. In a small saucepan over high heat, heat milk until almost boiling. Remove from heat; set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine cake mix, water, eggs and canola oil. Using a handheld electric mixer, beat on medium speed 2 minutes, occasionally scraping down side of bowl. Transfer batter to prepared slow cooker. Sprinkle pudding mix over cake batter. Slowly pour in hot milk.

Cover and cook on the low heat setting for 4 hours. (Do not lift lid for first 3 hours of cooking.) Turn off slow cooker. Sprinkle cake with 1 cup marshmallows. Cover; let stand 5 minutes to allow marshmallows to melt slightly. Serve warm by scooping out cake (or cake also can be left to cool completely and sliced.) Top with additional marshmallows and chocolate-flavored syrup (optional).

Makes 10 servings

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade Slow Cooker Recipes.''

TIPS FOR USING SLOW COOKERS

For best results, fill a slow cooker half to two-thirds full.

Keep in mind that vegetables cook more slowly than meat and poultry, so if using them, place in bottom of pot and around sides. Then add meat and liquid.

Use meats well-trimmed of excess fat. Also remove skin and fat from chicken.

Don't be alarmed if it seems like there isn't enough liquid at the outset of cooking. Liquid from steam created in the pot will fall into the dish and make it more saucy or liquidy.

Do not cook on the warm heat setting -- only high or low -- as it is too low for food safety.

For even cooking, thaw foods completely (use a microwave oven, if necessary) before adding to the slow cooker.

Thicken slow-cooker dishes by mixing Gold Medal Wondra quick-mixing flour (it will not clump) with liquids prior to cooking. It's also feasible to use regular flour whisked until smooth with liquids or dusted on meats. You can also thicken fruit desserts by mixing instant or quick-cooking tapioca with liquids before cooking, but you may need to stir the mixture once or twice during cooking.

Taste before serving and adjust flavor with freshly ground pepper and seasoned salt or fresh herbs, if necessary.

Refrigerate slow-cooker creations within 2 hours after cooking is completed for food safety.

Do not reheat leftovers in a slow cooker. However, cooked food can be heated to steaming in a microwave oven or stovetop, then placed in a preheated slow cooker to keep hot for serving.

When pressed for time, rely on a stable of shortcut ingredients such as canned tomatoes, broth and beans, cut-up rotisserie chicken (added near the end of cooking time), tomato paste, frozen vegetables such as corn, pearl onions and edamame beans, dried mushrooms, cooked sausages.

Don't mess with seafood in a slow cooker -- it's much better cooked in a grill pan, baked, broiled or microwaved.

Puddings and custards work well in a slow cooker because of the gentle heat.

For attractive presentation, garnish finished dishes with bright-colored items such as chopped fresh parsley, cilantro, basil, dill or other herbs, chopped green onions, chopped tomatoes or red, green or yellow bell peppers, shredded carrots, red cabbage or cheese, sour cream, yogurt, lime or lemon wedges, chopped avocado, crumbled cooked bacon.

-- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

7 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) slow-cooker surprises

Desserts? Yes ... and lots more you'd never expect

(2 -- color) Mom's Best BBQ Brisket

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Home Slow Cooker Recipes,'' Meredith Books

(3 -- color) Using just three ingredients, Apricot Preserves, above, go together in a snap. Making Whole Wheat Soda Bread, right, in a slow cooker is easier than you might think.

Photo by Leo Gong from "The Gourmet Slow Cooker, Volume II," Ten Speed Press

(4 -- 7 -- color) The slow cooker does an especially good job with meat and poultry. Ale-Braised Short Ribs, top, Pulled Pork With Barbecue Sauce, above, and Balsamic Braised chicken With Olives, below, are shining examples of the excellent results that can be achieved with slow, gentle cooking.

From ``1755 Essential Slow Cooker Classics,'' Robert Rose

Photo by Bill Bettencourt from ``William-Sonoma Food Made Fast: Slow Cooker,'' Oxmoor House

Photo by Leo Gong from ``The Gourmet Slow Cooker, Volume II,'' Ten Speed Press

Box:

TIPS FOR USING SLOW COOKERS (see text)